How to Change Evinrude Water Pump Impeller and Seals

In this video I change the driveshaft seal, shift rod o-rings and water pump impeller on the Evinrude 150.

Dangar Marine

About Dangar Marine

MarineEngine.com proudly sponsors the Dangar Marine YouTube Channel. Our friend Dangar Stu draws on his experience as a commercial boat skipper and mechanic to make some great how-to videos. Dangar Marine videos cover a range of relevant topics in outboard repair, boat repair/upgrades and seamanship. Subscribe on YouTube to be notified when new videos are released.

How to Change Evinrude Water Pump Impeller and Seals – Video Transcript

Hey there, Dangar Stu here. Today's video is going to be on changing the driveshaft and the gear selector seals on the Evinrude 150 and is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com. In the past three videos I've sort of picked up in the workshop once all parts have arrived and given MarineEngine.com the new sponsor of the channel, I thought it made a lot of sense to actually show you the earlier parts of the process where I try and get the parts I need so what we'll do is I'll jump on the website which unsurprisingly the URL is MarineEngine.com and then I'll show you how I go about finding the parts I need for this Evinrude 150.

So this particular screen is the homepage there so you can see there's engine parts manuals accessories forum some really good information and some contact details. The way I prefer to use the site really is to go into a particular brand this case Evinrude motor, so I'm just gonna click on here. Now you can do particular model numbers so we could type it in I actually don't know my full model number because the sticker on the outboard is a little bit damaged so what I'm going to do is go over here to just our boards 1955 present and then look at the years now I know mine is a 97 because of the EU part of the model number that's on there and I'll do a little explanation of how that sort of works a little bit down the track. then I know it's a 150 so that's nice and easy. Once I'm looking down this list I could see online that it's the "EXEUE" so that's the model I've got I mean the rest that's missing actually is pretty obvious it's never read 150 so that sort of clears things up a bit. when I go into the actual specific outboard I've got a few different options, which is common replacement parts which is great if you're doing a service, and then there is the various parts diagrams.

These parts diagrams are really handy when it comes to picking a very specific part you want to use for you for your outboard. But what I'm going to do is actually start by heading over here and just checking out the water pump kit, because I need pretty much all of this anyway so here we can see there was an old one that's been superseded so this is really what I want, I'll have a quick look what's in it, so we've got base plate gaskets all the usual things, so I'm just going to do add to cart and grab one of those while I'm here. It's worth me grabbing that because going through the drive shaft seal it's all below that water pump why not just do the whole water pump while you're there. Once I get back to these pumps I'll just use the back button get back to our main list then from here I'm looking at this lower unit. So if I have a look down here, gearcase here we go. gearcase standard rotation for the 20 inch that's what I want. These parts diagrams are really handy they're great for everything from figuring out how things go back together, through to ordering bits you need so I'll show you the bits I'd need to get this job finished. Now in that original order I did order some parts and dust covers and things and some seals. But what I didn't order was 23 I think which is this seal that goes under the gear selector housing.

Because I'll be taking that off so I'm going to replace that so I'm going to come down here to 23 and you'll see here there's once again there's an original part number that you may have seen listed that's why you may arrive at that but this is the new one and then there's some aftermarket ones in this case this one's a 2-pack and the aftermarket ones like 50 cents cheaper so I'm just going to add the original Evinrude one to our cart. Now the other thing I was going to order was this part which was 28,19 looks like I had a washer, actually might be 2,19's because I don't think the tab on the bottom had a washer and this 28 because we're missing one of those tabs on this outboard. Interestingly once again in these diagrams they always tell you a lot of information it looks here perhaps like there's only one I'll go and have a look at say 28 we'll jump down see what it says is to required. I only saw one on the Parts diagram but often you'll see this when you come down here, it will tell you how many are there are so we're missing one so I'm going to add a 28 and a 28a. The final thing I'm going to order is the plastic grills. I notice that actually one on one side is actually damaged, so I'll get a new one of those just to make it a little bit nicer I'll probably repaint the lower unit. The lower units not in great, and it's certainly no better after putting heat on it to get the bearing carrier out.

Once you've got all the bit's it's pretty sort of standard up to there. I'm just going to go check out I've already got an account so I'll log in and pay and do the usual sort of shipping and all that kind of stuff but hopefully gives an idea how easy it is to all the bits you need from a parts diagram. They can look a bit confusing at first because it's just you know huge page apart but they're really handy diagrams to have they're great sources of information too so if you were having a problem with your outboard, and just sort of often I'll get a question asked just you know "where does this part go?" "what order these parts go in?" you can actually jump on a site that sells parts and use diagrams like that to answer those questions really readily so that's getting a bit we'll pick this video up in about four seconds time when those parts have arrived. Through the magic of editing, these parts have arrived now, so we'll get on and we'll install the seals for the gear selector, the drive shaft seals, and water pump kit. As before, here's our picking list and all these little envelopes got the part numbers on as well, so I'll just run through see what we've got and pick where to start. I think we'll start with the gear selector linkage, just get that done then do the water pump.

So here are our little water intake grilles. Since its gearbox was here last year the owner took it away gave it a bit of sanding, put some primer on it. So we'll replace the filled ones with paint on them so as well as being damaged. It will be good to get new ones in there. Oh yes, we've also got the locking tab and nuts so we only have one of those locking tabs, I'll put the other one in just to make it more complete. I can't see it falling out but there's obviously two for a reason so, let's do it. looks like this bolt that comes supplied also has some Loctite on it which is great. From the previous order I've got this sort of dust cap seal that goes on the gear selector and I've also got these o-rings that I believe go inside the housing. I've spoken to people that said "Oh I'm looking forward to seeing a video on that." Because they could be really fiddly to do." and then my heart sank. I went," are they?" oh well we'll get there. The very first thing to do is wind out the drive shaft linkage. what do they do now is because I know I got that position measured quite right before in the previous video, so I'm going to measure how many winds it takes to come out, and that way I can just wind it in the same number again when it's time to go back together.

Three, four, five, six, seven, eight. between eight and nine I'm going to say. I actually did get this popped out the other day I pulled it up and get one will turn it to be nine but there's quite a bit of resistance on those o-rings. So you lift it thinking you are not quite disconnected, but I think it's just the o ring resistance. So there's six bolts around this housing that the o-rings go into and they look to be 7/16 I think they are. I also can't recommend these little magnetic parts trays enough. yeah they're not good for aluminum or stainless part but doesn't matter how small a job is having somewhere to put the little bits as you take them out saves you a lot of headache down the track. I was expecting that to be quite stuck, but it is quite simple in the end. On the bottom here is the gasket so I'm just going to take that out a bit torn now they very rarely come up in one piece so if ever you're taking something apart of this and it has a gasket I always recommend getting the gaskets in advance because you're very very rarely going to be able to reuse the old one with any success. I'll just scrape a little bit you can see there's a little bit of remaining gasket on here so I'll just scrape that off with a bit of a razor blade and then maybe put it on a brass wheel. or just to brush off the last little bit the cleaner the surface the better the new gasket is going to seal.

These o-rings are a little bit tricky to fish out. That's not too bad. stabbed it, just but I hear they're going to be 10 times worse to get the new ones back in, so here are the old ones I must have ordered two thinking they came individually but they actually come as a set of two so I bought two sets so I'll pop those in the spares. All right now I'm just going to clean this out with a bit of brake cleaner so I can get a better look. It looks like there are two individual grooves, so I'll probably put one in from the top here and one in from the bottom I think we'll see how that goes so just usual routine get a brake cleaner bit of a rag give it a clean-out it looks to me looking inside here there are two individual grooves there's the housing here start to narrow goes in widens out and then becomes narrow again which means these o-rings are just stacked inside a single groove so I actually think I'm going to put them both in from the top here just had a quick look at the manual to see if there's any tips for installing these. And the instructions are install them. So, Clear enough. it does say to use bit of grease on them which makes sense so I'll grab some grease we'll put some on the rings and we'll just pop them in. it says to use triple guard grease but I'm just using the new Yamaha grease. If the engine doesn't start on a finish we know it's because I used the wrong grease.

I'm thinking there's no real trick to this I'm just sort of going to squeeze them, pop them in, once I've pushed them in to avoid the risk of puncturing then I'm just going to use like a blunt sort of punch like this. I'm going to seat that one down the bottom of the groove so the second one can go on top so once again I'm just going to give it a squeeze to elongate it. once it's elongated just push it in that way, then use this punch to push the upper edge down. When I pushed it in, the bottom edge went in and then sort of got a bit stuck inside the first o-ring so I used this to sort of hook it back up, and then push the low side down so I think you need to do a little bit of hooking a little bit of pushing to get them sort of both right. Yeah, it's a little bit fiddly but I've certainly seen worse. So, I think they're pretty settled down which is good enough you can see through there but that's the two o-rings in now so now I'll just open the new gasket. I'll go and get the gearbox a wipe and the we'll re-assemble it. Going to scrape a little bit of old grease off with this razor blade. sometimes the bolt holes on these sorts of things are staggered so it will only go one way, but in this case they actually look symmetrical so pop our gasket down on our housing with the new o-rings in it.

I just double checked the manual to see about whether I should have Loctite on these they don't have any Loctite on them but it actually says we should have a gasket sealing compound on this gasket. most Yamaha stuff or whatever Honda stuff you don't seal this but it says do in this case so I'm just going to spray these with a Hylomar and then we'll install it follow miles generally applied to the metal surfaces itself in this case I'm making a spray on both sides of the gasket and let the gas get drive about 10 minutes and then we'll install it. so we'll just coat both sides and I'll hang it up for 10 minutes I'll just go over here in the spray booth first though .All right let's look at the water Pump while we are waiting for that to dry. These are also 7/16. These bolts also look to be the exact same length as the ones for the gear selector housing only they don't appear to have washers with them. whether they don't need them or whether they've been lost over time those probably another example where a part diagram to help you answer that question.

To make it a little bit easier to slide the impeller officer that you might on I'm just going to get a little bit of very fine sandpaper and just clean this corrosion off the drive shaft here. I'm just using a bit of brake cleaner to help dissolve this crud. Plenty of other things you could use. To get this impeller up I'm just going to use a pry bar. Maybe a bigger pry bar. slide the old one full up. no ring just under it. Then the baseplate. I'll go pop these on the bench and I'll go and compare all the bits and see what I've got in that repair kit that I got From MarineEngine.com and we'll see what this we've got to replace and what we have to reuse. underneath the housing here we've got a bit of a gasket that needs replacing, and we've got the housing gears that contains the driveshaft oil seals that we're also going to replace. So this is the oil seal for the driveshaft that I got in the previous order I'll now take out these bolts and see if we can lift this housing up. These bolts are slightly different to the others, so I'll just keep them aside so I know they go back with this oil seal housing. So just using a couple of screwdrivers to lift this up as straight as I can. Alright, I'll get this housing onto the bench now. On the underside of this oil seal holder we've actually got the bearing for the drive shaft here there's an o-ring in here which I don't have a new one off but it doesn't look too damaged so I'm going to clean it up put a bit of grease on it we'll reuse that and then I'll replace this oil seal here.

This oil seal actually didn't look like a tight fit around the drive shaft at all, so I'm starting to suspect this is where the water was getting in. Going to use this seal puller so get the old seal out As always, this oil feels pretty stuck so a bit worried I'm going to eventually slip and end up putting this through my hand, so I'm going to gently put this in a vise and try and lever it out. If I can't all I'm going to do is punch it out from this side. Actually you know that's what I'm going to start with main reason I do that because I don't really want to put any pressure on this bearing housing at all whereas I can lay this just down on the jaws of the Vice with them open wide enough and really easily I've got access, hopefully you can see to the seal there just to punch it through that way. There you go there's the old oil seal out now so clean up the housing and put the new one in got the new oil seal now it goes in this way up so this end faces towards the power head and this open end goes down towards the gearbox I'm just going to put a little smear of grease around the outside of it it's probably not quite enough. Just to make it a little bit easier to install and just to help it seal around the outside.

Because this one fits flush we can drive it all the way in with a socket so I'm just going to find a socket that's the right size and then we'll tap it in. Looks like a 27 millimeter socket is about right it's not such an issue that the socket is bigger than the outside but we don't want to crushing this inside spring or anything and that fits on quite nicely. So we'll tap it down so there we go, new oil seal in flush I'm now going to put a little bit of grease around that o-ring before we install it and then we'll bolt it back down I can already feel that all seals are much tighter fit than the original one was. Sort of confirms my suspicions this is where the water was getting in. All right that's sitting down quite nicely. Just going to give these fasteners a little clean up, a little bit of grease on them, tighten them up. now they're all snug just going to go tighten them up a smidge. So we've got even pressure. Our gasket has been drying for ten minutes now so I'm ready to install that. we will finish off the shift linkage, then we'll do the water pump. just going to pop these fasteners through the housing and the gasket in a couple of places to keep it aligned. Same thing with this one, tightening in diagonals, moving round, firm even pressure is all that's needed.

Now I'm just going to reinstall this shift rod. These parts are listed as the spacer and the grommet .So I'm just going to put a little bit of grease on the grommet because if I push the shift rod down the whole length of it and then when we come down here, got to get this through the o-rings, the new o-ring so I'm actually going to wind and see if thread, bites into the o-rings and winds its way through rather than risking pushing it and just pushing those o-rings back out the bottom. Once we get onto the smooth part of the shift linkage I'm happy to push it through. You've got that choice. Wait until the bottoms out into the thread and then then turn it one time clockwise just see if I can lift it I don't want to count turns where it hasn't actually mated with the female thread. Otherwise you know it's going to end up being too shallow. But that feels like that first turn did lock in. So it was one, we'll go to three, and eight I think eight is right, as I said when I first took it out I think maybe I counted nine but I think that last one actually already come out of a thread but I might just really measure it to be safe anyway. So we've now got new o-rings, new gaskets, and finally have this spacer and grommet installed that wasn't there originally.

We'll call that part done. Now let's go and have a look what came in that water pump kit looks like this kit comes with pretty much everything so we're not going to need to reuse any of it. The whole entire pump housing and everything's just gone comes with brand new ones so I'll pull all these bits out. Obviously our impeller, your baseplate, new housing. So we'll put the old impeller, old housing aside, our baseplate, the old o ring that was under the impeller. Now it looks like this bolts on, so we need to sort of assembled housing a little bit and we get what I'm assuming is a set of new bolts for that. So, new woodruff key for the impeller, a couple of screws which I'm presuming for the housing together and then new bolts with some Loctite on them or putting the housing on the on the gearbox according to instructions it appears that this adapter that goes on the top is for outboards that have our half inch water pipe coming out of it. So I'll check that presumably this way is to measure off the old one. So it seems like these configurations is what we need, this faceplate there's a separate tube here and then there is a rubber seal that's got a lip it goes onto here. and that's what the outboard used to have, it's pumping water nicely so that's what we are going to use this time. There's also another rubber seal that goes on the top here where the drive shaft comes through.

So we'll pop that on. And now we've pretty much got a carbon copy of what we originally had. Doesn't look like there were any sealants or anything on this before. It can't really go anywhere because it's pressed down and wedged between the outlet pipe and the pump itself. So a couple little flathead screws hold this on. So, old one, new one. you'll also find these kits as a little o-ring that goes inside the housing before you push this actual impeller Cup in. The kit came with the cup seated inside here so just be aware that you'll need to take this out pop this o-ring in the center before you put it together. Here is a bit of a shaped o ring that goes in the bottom of the housing here. So I'm going to put a bit of grease on the o-ring to help it seal, and also just to hold it in place while we assemble it. stops the o-ring popping out not sealing getting pinched and cut that kind of stuff. This o-ring has got quite a distinctive kink in it where it makes this turn, so I'm starting at that point then the rest of it's essentially just a curve that follows the pump around.

Next thing to go in is the new base plate gasket and the new base plate. But, before I can do that I need to scrape all the old base plate gasket off now. The bulk of its off I'm just going to get a fine a razor blade and scrape a bit more maybe a bit of wire brush. It looks like the service manual calls for a coating of sealant on this gasket both sides this gasket for the base plate as well. So do it it says. While that sealant dries on the base plate gaskets I'll do the intake grilles and the retainer for the bearing carrier. As well as being a bit damaged, particularly the other side, these intake grilles have now been painted over with a bit of primer so perfect time to replace them. Once you've got the screw off this side you need to take the screw off and the other side they're quite long and they're staggered so one screw goes in this one into the far side up high and the other one goes the other way down low. Once Installed you can put the screws in, but it just occurred to me I'm actually going to put a coach of the Evinrude white on this so I'll leave these off for now and I'll put them on when the painting is finished. But you get the idea how easy they are to swap. I will put this missing retainer in though, which is got a half inch bolt on it. all right I was nice and easy. Now let's go finish the water pump. Gasket has been drying about ten minutes so we'll drop this on with the gasket on this way the bolt holes don't line up at all so I'm just going to flip it over. that's perfect so it's obviously not symmetrical. Now I'll just pop the base plate on top of that.

Obviously the same issue as the base plate if you drop it on and the holes don't line up, flip it over. Now put that little sort of woodruff key section in and the o-ring. The woodruff key is this tapered shape like this. if you imagine the drive shaft looking down and you imagine turning clockwise you want the pointy end to be pointing clockwise where is it there then I'm going to put a little bit of grease on this o-ring and slide it on and we're going to slide it down until it's halfway across the woodruff key to hold its place. So here woodruff key with the narrow end pointing clockwise. and the o-ring just half over holding place. now just wipe of grease again on the inside impeller just help it slide down. you can tell which way this impeller goes because the open side has to go down so we can slide onto that woodruff key there the closed side here goes up when you slide these in fill it down I like to have a look where the Woodruff key goes and just note this particular fin. So once I know which blade it is I can keep an eye on that blade and know that I'm aligning that blade with the Woodruff key then as it goes down. Oops, so much for the o-ring holding it in place I bring you in close again for this because this can actually be a little bit tricky those Woodruff , even with your o ring holding in place if they catch up they'll just push out so you need to keep an eye on that and make sure it's still in position by the time the impellers all the way down. So, Woodruff key in position holding there this is the blade that has the depth for the woodruff key, you can see here though this Woodruff Keys actually popped down and out so I'm going to try and use a screwdriver to keep it in place.

While I get the impeller down and there we go. so it's locked on with that key it's a bit of play in it but it's definitely hitting a point where it can't turn any further. And once the impeller goes on it pushes that o-ring off the Woodruff key down onto the base now I'm just gonna put a little bit of grease on the inside of the propeller housing just to give it a little at lubrication as I drop the housing down and I turn the drive shaft clockwise to make sure that those impeller fins Bend the right way. so just turning them with a bit of downward pressure. Quite a large impeller on this outboard so takes a bit of force to get it down but getting there eventually. once you've got those nuts sort of fastened up on the impeller housing you're pretty much done.

The instructions also talked about lifting the drive sharp up as you rotate it to seat the impeller lower down on the shaft apparently that improves the impeller or the pump efficiency, so a nice little final step I guess that wraps things up for this video with now on this gearbox got a new pop shaft seal new drive shaft seal and new gear selector o rings so I think we're going to solve this problem of water getting to gearbox now the only other real possibility is just a little o rings or washers around the drain plugs from gearbox oil and they're fine as well so I think we're good to go. well thanks watching I hope this video helps you if you have this problem one need to do this job on your gearbox I hope this video also shows you a bit about that sort of early start when it comes to obtain the parts.

In the past I've always just sort of start the video here I've got these parts. but as you can see if you go to a site like Marine Engine.com it's pretty easy to order parts on just knowing what's the exact model of your outboard, and then looking through those diagrams. I find those exploded diagrams give me much greater confidence I'm actually going to get the part I need compared to ringing up and try and describe them over the phone I also find you're a really good resource if you've got a little bit of doubt about how things go back together jumping on and looking at those diagrams can really help you out there. All right, take care and I'll catch next week.