CDI Electronics Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting Guide

30 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE - Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting 7. Reset the Phase II Rotor air gap to 0.020 in. If this allows the pack to spark, leave the gap at that setting. SPARKS OUT OF TIME: 1. 1967 Models- Check the rotor inside the distributor cap. It should be the Silver colored one – NOT the Brass colored one. 2. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor’s wires together. Only the #1 spark plug wire should spark. If any of the other spark plug wires have spark, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. MID-RANGE MISS: 1. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 15.5 volts, measured at the power pack. Over 15.5 volts may damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery. 2. 1968-1972 Models – Check the Rotor. It should be the Phase II. The Phase I can cause this problem. 3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor’s wires together. Only the #1 spark plug wire should spark. If any of the other spark plug wires have spark, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders. Johnson/Evinrude Two Cylinder Engines 1971-1977 50-55 HP Models (With Screw Terminal Power Pack) NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire AT THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch. 2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. This can be caused by a weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables or a mechanical problem inside the engine. 4. Inspect and clean all engine and ignition ground connections. 5. Check the stator and timer base resistance and DVA output as given below: WIRE READ TO OEM Ohms CDI Ohms DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected) Brown Engine GND 400-600 650-850 150-400 V 150-400 V (*) Black/White White/Black 10-20 16-20 0.6 V + 0.6 V + (#) Black/White Engine GND Open Open 150-400 V (a) N/A White/Black Engine GND Open Open 150-400 V (a) N/A (*) This reading can be used to determine if a stator or pack has a problem. For instance, if you have no spark on any cylinder and the stator’s DVA reading is low – disconnect the stator wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading stays low – the stator is bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad. (#) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one cylinder and the timer base’s DVA reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the timer base wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading stays low – the timer base is bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad. (a) The trigger signal rides on top of the high voltage on these timer bases. Check stator DVA first. Then if timer base DVA is 0.6 - 2.5 V, the pack is faulty. 6. If the timer base output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet. See below for resetting the air gap: a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensor and the nut located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base. b) Slide the sensor in toward the crankshaft approximately 0.005” at a time. c) Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent. d) Install the flywheel according to the service manual and crank the engine over.