CDI Electronics Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting Guide

197 Four Stroke 2. Check the engine temperature. A cold engine will tend to foul the spark plugs. 3. Check the engine temperature sensor in a pan of water, as you warm it up. You should get the approximate readings below: Water Temp: @ 68 degrees @140 degrees @212 degrees 2.439K ohms 0.589 K ohms 0.193K ohms 4. Check the resistance of the fuel injectors. You should read between 11-13 ohms. ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE ABOVE APPROXIMATELY 2000 RPM: 1. Verify the engine is not overheating or has low oil pressure and causing the power pack to limit the RPM. 2. Verify the oil pressure is over the minimum PSI (varies with engine RPM). 3. Disconnect the Pink wire from the power pack and retest. If the engine now performs correctly, check the overheat sensor and oil pressure sensor mounted on the engine. 4. Check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) resistance from idle to WOT. You should have a smooth change in resistance from the idle setting through WOT. Idle DC voltage should be between 0.8-1.2 V. 5. Check ignition timing, it should be close to the following: Engine Idle WOT (Wide Open Throttle) F50 10 degrees ATDC 25 degrees BTDC NOTE: If he timing does not advance with RPM, replace the ECU. 6. Check From: Check To: Idle 1500 RPM 3500 RPM White/Red White/Black 7.2 V minimum 20.7 V minimum 32 V minimum HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT RUN: 1. Check spark plug for presence of water, indicating a possible cracked block or blown head gasket. 2. Check compression, carburetor, reed blocks and do a cylinder leak down test (remember, a valve not seating properly, stuck rings, improper tappet clearance, damaged piston or a blown head gasket can cause a low reading for a leak down test). 3. Replace the sparkplugs. 4. Check the Timing Belt and verify the cam timing is correct. 5. Check fuel and make sure it is still good. Also check for a high level of ethanol in the gas. 6. Verify the engine is has the correct fuel pressure into and out of the fuel pump. 7. Make sure the fuel injectors are not stuck open or closed. 8. Make sure the fuel injectors are opening and closing. 9. Check flywheel shear key to make sure it has not sheared due to backfiring or impact on the propeller. 10. Check fuel lines for inner wall breakdown and wall collapse. 11. Check the Pulsar coil resistance and air gap. You should read from White/Red to White/Black, 396 to 594 ohms with a 0.020-0.040 inch air gap. 12. Check timing at cranking, you should have approximately 10 degrees ATDC (After Top Dead Center). 13. Check the Triggers as follows (a defective trigger can cause timing variance): Check From: Check To: Ohms Reading: DVA Reading Connected Disconnected Red/White White/Black 340 to 510 7.2 V minimum 7.9 V minimum WILL NOT STOP (KILL): 1. Disconnect the White wire from the CD Module. 2. Short the White wire from the CD Module to engine ground. If the engine stops, the problem is in the stop circuit. If the engine continues to run with the White wire shorted to engine ground, replace the defective CD Module. WILL NOT CHARGE BATTERY: 1. Check the resistance of the stator yellow wires as follows: Check From Check To Ohms Reading DVA Reading Connected Disconnected Green Green 0.52 to 0.63 8 V minimum 13.2 V minimum Green (each) Engine Ground Open - 1 V or less 2. Connect a inline ammeter between the regulator/rectifier’s Red wire and the positive battery post on the starter solenoid. Connect a battery tester to the battery and start the engine. Increase the engine RPM to approximately 1500-2000 RPM and press the test button on the battery tester. The ammeter should show at least 2 amps of current flow. If not and the stator passes the test above, replace the regulator/rectifier. If the ammeter shows a