MarineEngine.com - Your best connection for marine engines, parts, service, and information. View Cart / Check Out Contact MarineEngine.com Ordering and Shipping Information Free Engine Classifieds Engine Parts Discussion Board Engine Manuals Home / Directory
add bookmark or favorites | email this page
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

Tachometer Troubleshooting

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Miscellaneous marine engine related topics » Tachometer Troubleshooting « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

john Thomason
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a 1985 Johnson 40. The tachometer is new but doesn't work. I have 12 volts and a good ground. How can I tell if I am getting a signal from the grey tach. wire
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Joereeves (Joereeves)
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

John... It would have been better if your question was in the outboard section rather than miscellaneous as I just stumbled over it here. Usually that type problem is due to a shorted blown rectifier. Test it as follows:

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier

Joeomc
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

john Thomason
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

THANKS Joe, I did as you said in your instructions. I am not an electrician, but I found a reading on the ohm meter any way I connected. The alternator is charging. What does the rectifier do? The original question was my first post, I wasn't sure where to post this problem. The tach. "grey wire" from the terminal post, on the motor, is going to the tachometer. From this information, can I be reasonably assured that the rectifier is the problem? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Joereeves (Joereeves)
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

John.... If you obtained a reading at the rectifier on the ohm meter in both directions, it would be impossible for the charging system to be operational. The rectifier converts AC voltage that is coming from the stator to DC voltage which is needed to charge the battery.

The rectifier usually has a yellow/gray wire that attaches to the terminal strip at the engine, and the gray wire is attached to that same terminal. That gray wire is the one that leads up to the control console and is to be connected to the gray tachometer lead if a tach exists.

There are some rectifiers that do not have a yellow/gray wire but rather have two yellow wires, in which case, it doesn't matter which one connects to the gray tach wire.

Bottom line = If the rectifer doesn't check out exactly as I explained above, the rectifier is faulty. NOTE... before installing a new rectifier, make absolutely sure that the terminal where the RED rectifier lead connects to has "Positive" (+) voltage. The rectifier will not tolerate reverse voltage and will short out immediately if reverse polarity exists.

Joeomc
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

john Thomason
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Joe---- I did the test you suggested ,again,and the rectifier checked ok. I used a different ohm meter. The tachometer I am trying to hook up, is a NEW FARIA. The boat has never had a tachometer but the console control has the hook-up. All these wires check good. I have two questions?

#1--Should the RED wire that feeds the rectifier have 12 volts constant without going through the switch? Mine does.

#2---Is there any way I can check this new tachometer before I send it back? I do not have, or know, where I can obtain another tach. for testing.
You have my GREATFUL APPRECIATION for the help you are giving me.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Joereeves (Joereeves)
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

John.... I'm not familiar with the brand "Faria". The tachs I've rigged have all been OMC tachs. In order for a tach to operate with a OMC outboard, they must be able to operate off of the engines 6 pulse charging system (rectifier) via the gray wire, and the back of the tach should have a dial that could be set to the number 6.

#1 Question = Yes, that wire always has 12 volts constantly assigned to it whether the key is on or off.

#2 Question = Sorry, I don't have an answer to that. I always have a spare tach on hand and use it as a test instrument.

Joeomc
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

john Thomason
Posted on Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Joe -- My tachometer has the following information on the back:
# Poles Set
4-------1
6-------2
8-------3
10-------4
12-------6
I called three different dealers a got three different answers as to how many poles my alternator has. Does my 1985 Johnson 40 have 6 poles? I tried the tachometer on all the settings, with negative results. I figured if the setting was wrong, the gauge would read wrong. Joe, I have been a mechanic for over fourty years but this is my first experience with a pulse tachometer. THANKS FOR THE EDUCATION!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Joereeves (Joereeves)
Posted on Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

John.... Nothing in the OMC manual states anything about "poles" pertaining to the stator. The only poles mention would pertain to the ignition sensor triggering magnets located in the flywheel and they have nothing to do with the tachometer.

Did that tachometer come with instructions that stated it would operate with your engine? If not, I'd suggest you return it and obtain one that's designed specifically for your engine.

Joeomc
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Steve
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2003 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I am looking for tachometers for my 77 454 Mercruiser engines with thunderbolt ignition. I cannot get the teleflex to work because the old tachs run off the alternator. Where can I get some help?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nick Seabridge
Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2003 - 05:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have two 1988 Mariner 40 outboards that are manual start and am looking to attach tacho's to each engine. According to the manual I have they have to be connected to the 2 green wires. Any ideas where I can obatin such tacho's ?
Thanks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

louis chandler
Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2004 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I sent a message about a 1991 200 HP Johnson GT outboard, and I'm not sure if it posted. The engine runs fine all day at half to two thirds throttle, but when I progress to full throttle, the alarm sounds after about 5 seconds. THe water pump seems to be working fine. Do you think I have an over heating problem, or could the engine just be turning too fast? How do I tell. Thanks again and I look forward to hearing from you.

Louis
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

kirk rau
Visitor
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a honda 45 4 stroke that the tach stopped working. the clock on it works, If I disconnnect the gray lead the clock stops working. Does anyone have any ideas of why the tach does not work but the clock hour meter on the tach does.???? thanks kirk rau
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tony M
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I am considering buying a 1987 Searay Seville 19' boat with a 130 HP Mercruiser inboard/outboard. The tachometer was recently replaced with a new gauge, however, the tach is only registering up to 2500 rpm's and nothing over that. Why would the tach not function correctly at higher speeds?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Karl Houck
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2007 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi, I have a 1999 Crownline 225 with a 5.7 250 HP Mercrusier & Bravo III. My Tach was working ok last year at end of season. I have done several winter project this off season including Installing an Amp for the stereo and a Corsa Captains Call exhaust. Upon taking the boat out for a test drive and checkout run my tach is reading funny. It is reading high. Idle is reading 1100 RPM compared to last year of 800 RPM. The boat is reading 3900 RPM at 30 MPH compared to last year of 3300. WOT with the exhaust closed is reading 5300 RPM compared to last year of 4800 RPM. While crusing through a slow speed area and the motor at a constant speed the Tach would fluctuate between 1200 and 1800 RPM. Have I pulled something lose or got a lose connection somewhere? Is there a wiring diagraham that I could follow and check this out?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bill Neal
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Does anyone out there know how I can find or make a quick-disconnect flusher for my 1991 Johnson 200 that I can mount near the top end of the motor housing? I keep the boat on a lift and it's a serious pain to use the "ear muff" flusher on the lower unit.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bill Neal
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I've recently acquired a 1992 C-Hawk 25, powered by a 1991 Johnson 200 (Johnson 200 Model J200TXEIB.) I've installed a second helm amidships. I need to install a second starter switch at the new helm. No one seems to know definitively how to do that. Seems like OMC should have a pat solution, but I will be darned if I can find it. Is there some sort of kit that OMC makes to have dual helms and with dual starter switches?

If not, can anyone tell me how to wire that up myself? Seems like I would need a nominally closed relay to ground the stator, then activate the relay to open whenever I turned on the starter switch from either helm. Other's have said I need to wire in some diodes to make the kill switch work and prevent electrical feedback into the regulator. But no one cal produce a a wiring diagram or tell me what type of diodes I should use. I'm seriously stumped on this issue. Thanks for any help.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tom W Lewis
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I just got my boat back from the shop ,the heads were replaced and other work done , now my tachometer spins around clockwise all the way when the motor is started. (pegged) Has anyone ever experienced this? Any thoughts
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

John Campbell
Member
Username: dadbo

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2006
Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2007 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Does anyone know how you determine the pulse from my 1988 4cyl Johnson 140hp engine. I'm install an new tach and need some help.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Todd Talbott
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, July 08, 2007 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I don't know if I'm in the right place, but I am going crazy here with my Johnson 140HP 4 Stroke b/c it keeps blowing that little green 30A blade fuse on the engine every time I try to start it ... some clicking, like the battery is dead, then pop. I looked under the helm and two wires are hanging down from the ignition that go nowhere, a black one and a purple one. I don't know if they came loose or what, but they don't look like they were hooked up at all. Everyting was running fine and I think my batteries got low on power, as my charger was not working I found out a few days ago, but I put a good fresh charge on the batteries and all the accessories work fine. Anyone have a wiring diagram? It's got Bombardier on the back of the engine cover if that helps. Can someone give me any ideas?! I can't even find the serial number or model on the thing! It came with the boat used when I bought it, I was told it's a 2001 or 2003 but the guy was not sure. Thanks in advance ... I'm HIGH AND DRY till I fix this damn thing!! Thanks again!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Todd Talbott
Visitor
Posted on Monday, July 09, 2007 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I fixed my own problem. There was a wire (the "I" wire from the tach) and it was bare in a spot and touching a screw and grounding out. ALSO, I found the ground wire to my engine had come loose at the crimp point where it fixes to the bolt. These remedied fixed everything, back to HAPPY BOATING!! B/T/W, found the stickers, it's a 2003 Johnson 140HP 4Stroke, and I have all the wiring diagrams and everything now, so if anyone else has a problem, I'll be glad to share!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

John C Jordan
Visitor
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I need a tachometer for a 2 cylinder marine engine with a magneto. For a Kermath Atomic 2
If you know where I could get one I would appreciated very much. By the way I was told
that Teleflex does not make a Tachometer for
engines with magnetos.
Thank you





Thank you

John C Jordan
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Michael Carl
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a Mercruiser 5.7L Bravo III from 2005 in a Regal 2665. The Tachometer is not working and the Engine guardian straetgy reduces engine to 90 % of the power (according to the manual). Is it becourse the Tachometer is not working that the power is being reduced, and does anyone know what to do if the tachometer is not working. Is it a fuse? Anyone, ideas?

Best regards
Michael Carl, Copenhagen, Denmark
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

JUST-IN-TIME
Senior Member
Username: justintime

Post Number: 4004
Registered: 09-2006


Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

you need to plug it into a computor and find out

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page


Home / Directory | Engine Manuals | Engine Parts | Discussion Board | Free Classifieds | Orders / Shipping | Contact Us | View Cart

About Us | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy
MarineEngine.com, 184 Jones Dr., Brandon, VT 05733 USA
Phone: 802-247-4700 FAX: 802-301-1034 info@marineengine.com
Copyright © 2000 - 2007 by MarineEngine.com, Inc. All rights reserved
   
Traduca
EspanolEspanol
Traduisez
FrancaisFrancais
Traduza
PortuguesePortuguese
Traduca
Italiano
Ubersetzen
Deutschen
  
Sierra Marine Catalog
Seloc Online Manuals
Product Categories
Engine Parts · By Brand
Engine Manuals · By Brand
Books
General Repair and Maint.
Care and Repair
· Adhesive and Sealants
· Bottom Cleaners
· Cleaners Wax and Polish
· Mops Brushes and Sponges
Covers and Tops
· Bimini Tops   · Hardware
· Cover Accessories
· Motor Covers
· Universal Boat Covers
Electronics
· Gauges and Compasses
· Mounts and Accessories
Electrical
· Batteries & Chargers
· Battery Accessories
· Dockside Electrical
· Electrical Terminals
· Electrical Wire, Cable
· Fuses, Fuse Holders
· Switches
· Wire Ties, Clips, Tape
Fuel Systems
· Fuel Tanks
· Fittings, Fills, Vents
· Hose & Primer Bulbs
· Filters, Senders, Caps
Hardware
· Deck Cabin Hardware
· Molding and Rub Rails
· Rails and Fittings
· Snaps Shackles and Hooks
· Windshield Hardware
Lighting
· Cabin Lights · Light Bulbs
· Navigation Light Parts
· Navigation Lights
· Spotlights   · Parts
Mooring and Dock
· Boat Fenders · Boat Hooks
· Buoys and Markers
· Deck Cleats · Dock Edging
· Dock Parts and De-Icers
· Fender Covers and Holders
· Keelshield / Toon-Tectors
· Ladders and Platforms
Prop / Trim / Transom
· Jack Plates, Wedges
· Mounting Brackets
· Outboard Stands
· Trim Tabs, Stablizers
· Prop Nuts, Locks, Pins
 · Propellers · Wrenches
Pumps
· Aerator Pumps
· Bilge Pumps
· Drain Plugs and Tubes
· Hose · Through Hull Fittings
Rope and Cordage
· Anchor Line   · Dock Line
· Fender Line   · Bulk Rope
· Shock Cord and Bungee
Safety Products
· Horns Bells and Whistles
· Mirrors
· Vents Blowers and Hose
Sanitation
· Fresh Water Pumps
· Marine Toilets
· Sanitation Chemicals
· Sanitation Pumps/Hose
· Water/Waste System Parts
Seating
· Deck Chairs and Tables
· Fishing Seats
· Lounge Seats
· Pontoon Furniture
· Seat Bases and Pedestals
Steering / Control
· Control Boxes
· Control Cables
· Hydraulic Steering
· Mechanical Steering
· Rigging · Steering Wheels
Tools / Shop Supplies
· Lubricants & Additives
· Motor Flushers
· Tools & Test Equipment
Trailering
· Boat Guides/Motor Support
· Hitches Balls Couplers
· Rollers Brackets Springs
· Tires Wheels and Carriers
· Trailer Hubs & Bearings
· Trailer Jacks
· Trailer Wiring and Lighting
· Winches Straps Tie Downs
 Manufacturer List