| Author |
Message |
    
David Gee
New member
Username: redpaint
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 06:18 pm: | 
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Hi
I registered today and have lots of question. Thanks in advance to all of you. I learn something every time I get on this site..
I need to re-sound proof the bottom of my hatch doors. What can I use ? I have found several sites that sell different material,But all very expensive. Thanks for your help
Please don't kick me off like the others have !!  |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1278
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 09:45 pm: |
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most of the effective stuff is not cheap. That said, don't expect more than 10 years out of it.
The best way to go is the double layer, if you have room. use the recommended adhesives, tapes, and most importantly, the cleaning prep.
Also, read the instructions for any supplemental fastening. Taking shortcuts will result in less than satisfactory results. |
Bob Griest
Member
Username: hippie
Post Number: 67
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 10:36 am: |
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David Gee, I think you are talking about the doors to your enginge? If so, save money and get a sheet of the hard insulation (looks like styrofoam)and tape it to the inside of the hatch doors. Make sure there is ample room between your engine and the styrofoam. Use duct tape. Bob |
charlie
Member
Username: chollyjohn
Post Number: 76
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 11:07 am: |
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I would recommend you use caution as to the FLAME RATING of some of the typical house styrofoam insulation. The types recommended and sold for boating use meet guidelines for flame and smoke and melting. One thing you dont want is a catylist to help a fire; particularly in your engine compartment not to mention your family's safety. Yes it mey be expensive however, the proper material will last longer than typical house insulation. It's a long term investment and certainly one that needs no short-cuts. |
Fred Frog
Member
Username: lilypad
Post Number: 66
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 12:51 pm: |
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Great advice from Makomark and charlie. Take your styrofoam cup and light it with a lighter and see if you want to put that type of insulation in your engine room. Look for a fire rated product like ceiling tiles. They will have a pretty good sound damping quality as well as not propagating a fire. Cheap tiles may not have a fire rating so be sure to look.
IMHO duct tape will not hold your sound proofing in place long term. Use some type of mechanical fastener the first time and be done with it. Something as simple as long stainless deck screws with a large washer work well if you have wood to screw to. If not, contact cement, remembering to wait the proper amount of time between spreading and sticking works well also.
Try to fill all the gaps and spaces. Foam tape insulation around the area where the hatches close helps a lot. The time you spend fitting the insulation into the spaces without leaving gaps is time well spent.
K |
Fred Frog
Member
Username: lilypad
Post Number: 67
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 12:57 pm: |
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Oh, one more thought. If you think that saving money by buying cheap non fire rated insulation is a good idea check out the video and court proceedings of the nightclub fire a few years ago. Here's a link to get you started. http://www.cnn.com/2003/US/Northeast/02/21/deadly.nightclub.fire/
The pyrotechnics were illegal but the disaster was fueled by the foam insulation. Read the story and ask yourself if you'd like that on your boat.
K |
charlie
Member
Username: chollyjohn
Post Number: 78
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 05:36 pm: |
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David: Regarding soundproofing/insulation of engine compartments or cabin areas.
Here are a few good sites to choose from. I have purchased items from all of these vendors at one time or another. Good luck.
www.acousticsource.com www.sailrite.com www.marinefoam.com
Even if you soundproof the backside of decks or hatches, etc. remember that the sound transfer usually comes from the gap around. So, it is equally important that you use a good marine gasket for your hatch also. West Marine, Imtra, Perko and Trimlok all carry a "D" shaped gasket (various sizes) for your particular application. |
David Gee
Member
Username: redpaint
Post Number: 8
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 07:15 pm: |
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Wow ,, Thanks to all of you for responding. I finished this project last weekend. I used a NAPA product that is made for under your car hood. Hot Roders use it a lot. Fire rated ,Sound block. foil looking on both sides. 3/8 thick. Looks great. Sounds the same !! |
charlie
Member
Username: chollyjohn
Post Number: 79
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 10:27 am: |
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Thankx David: Now I will add NAPA to my list of stores. Your prolly got a good price vs a marine supplier. BRAVO! (and I don't mean a Mercury outdrive) |
