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| I AM BEGGING FOR HELP ON A 71 125 JOH... |
| Author |
Message |
    
Bruce Christoffer
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 01:45 am: | 
|
Other then committing suicide I thought I would come here and admit this baby has me stumped.
Just bought the engine so don't know what it did before.
To start I have verified the neutral kill switch is working.
Have verified that the power pack is good by doing the 12 volt auto bulb test and it lit just fine between the purple and the blue wires on the pack.
have changed the coil
have cleaned and set the air gap points and verified continuity through the 2 black wires with white stripes that the points feed to.
here are the 2 starnge things that I have found.
#1 when I accidently left the key in the run postion for awhile one plug just started firing like crazy without the engine turning over.
#2 There is not 12volts to the hot side of the coil but when you look at the air gap setup you can see why. Jumping 12v to the hot side of the coil does nothing either.
Please help if you can. This one has me stumped!!!
Thanks Sparky and Joe who I'm sure will read this!
Bruce |
sparky
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 07:20 am: |
|
The 125 did not have points ,so what motor do you have? Model # will get some accurate help. |
Joereeves (Joereeves)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 11, 2003 - 10:50 am: |
|
Bruce.... The bulb test does not pertain to having it connected between the "purple" pack wire and the "blue" coil wire. It connects between the blue wire and ground.
The gap between the sensor and the metal rotor should be set to .028 .
A steady spark, with the key on, without having the engine running would indicate that power (12v) is being applied intermitently at a rapid rate.
Do not ever apply 12v directly to the coil on that type ignition. That would apply to a automotive type system only, not to a Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system which is what you have.
You've no doubt seen the following instructions, but look them over again as it sounds like you are missing something.
(Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point.
Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).
Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.
Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.
Joe |
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