Teleflex steering - more detail, pls

Author Message   alan Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 12:25 am:    I had posted a message w/ regards to R/R and my original teleflex steering cable on a Johnson 1985 120 HP. I am looking for a bit more detail. Once the motor is off the transom, and I remove the (2) large nuts on either side of the tilt tube- what happens next ? Is it typical that the tilt tube is frozen - and if so how do you get it out ? Do I have to split the motor bracket to seperate the tilt tube ? While the motor is off, is there anything else I should inspect/ replace while I'm there ? Thx, Alan   Jon Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 11:46 am:    I don't remember the whole post, but I'll just start at the begining. How to replace the steering cable: On the steering cable, on the engine side, there is a piston that moves in and out, this steers the engine etc.. That piston is called the "ram". There is a hole in the ram, and a bar that is connected to this hole w/ a bolt. The other end of the bar connects to the outboards steering arm. Remove the bolt from the steering ram. The steering ram moves in and out of the tilt tube. There is a nut/flange that secures the cable to the tilt tube. Completely loosen that nut. Attempt to retract the ram by turning the steering wheel. If the ram retracts and you can just pull the cable out of the tilt tube, just replace the cable at this point. If the ram does not retract (steering is seized), there are a couple possibilites. It's either that the steering cable and/or helm is just seized or the steering ram has seized to the tilt tube. On some boats, you just don't have enough clearance to remove the steering cable from the tilt tube, because the engine well and/or beam of boat is just not wide enough. In this case you are required to remove the engine, or just remove the bolts and slide it over before you can remove the steering cable. If the cable is seized to the tilt tube, you have two options. The first is to simply get the steering ram out, leaving the tilt tube on the outboard. The second option is to actually remove the tilt tube, and steering cable as an assembly, and either replace the tilt tube and steering cable or seperate the parts elsewhere. My .02 is regardless of whether you need to move the engine around to get the cable out, try to take the steering cable out of the tilt tube before you go removing the tilt tube. I say this because removing the tilt tube could also be a headache. If you need to remove the engine to get the cable out, I'd still try to break it free while the engine is on. If you've got a grease fitting, squirt some grease in there, squirt penatrating oil (wd40 or whatever) into any spaces you see. Try twising the ram using vice grips or by inserting a screw-driver into the hole at the end. If it's too jammed to twist, try wacking it in with a hammer. Once it moves a little, you should be able to start twisting and working it out. Be sure the nut/flange securing the cable to the tilt tube is off while you are doing this. If all else fails (I don't think it will), remove the nut of the tilt tube, on the side of the steering ram. Support the engine somehow as removing the tilt tube will allow it to drop. Slide, press, or bang the tilt tube out (depending on how bad it's stuck in there); do what needs to be done (ie replace tilt tube if neccesary etc..). Good luck, Jon   Jon Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 11:57 am:    Something to look at while that engine is off is the tilt/trim assembly; assuming all is well, give it a few good coats of paint while you have good access to bothe sides of it. In addition, the bushings around the tilt tube should be replaced if they worn, the tilt tube itself may also need replacement if it's too corroded. If you have a transom pad on the boat, and it's getting rotten, think about replacing that too. Be sure to caulk inside the holes in the transom and around the bolts w/ a quality poly caulk - 3M 5200 is a good one. Jon   Bubba Posted on Friday, January 10, 2003 - 06:10 pm:    Find an outboard mechanic that has an air hammer with a long drift. In my shop: air hammer 1000, steering cables zero. After removing the cable from the tilt tube, borrow a tilt tube reamer from the same mechanic and if he doesn't have one, find a 5/8" drill bit and clean out the tilt tube. Score: Reamer 1000, tilt tubes zero. Grease the hell out of a new cable (while extended) and happy boating.

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