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| Author |
Message |
   
SandyChreptyk
| | Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2003 - 02:38 am: |
|
any help on these Force engines would be great. Looking for info on compression, trying to buy a boat with 120 force and not sure what compression should be or what to look for prior to buying. We took boat out and sounded great but want to get inspection on motor. What should we be careful of??? Thanks in advance for your feedback Sandy |
   
Tonyob (Tonyob)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2003 - 11:05 am: |
|
Sandy, The 120 hp Force engines were basically the same, but not identical. There were several igniton systems used; all very expensive now. Compression should be even in all cylinders, and somewhere in the 110-120 psi. range. Some of these engines have a tendency to overheat due to a pressure relief valve at the bottom of the water jacket on the port side of the block, just below the exhaust manifold. Engines up to about 1988 had these valves, which were done away with in later models, because of frequent problems with sticking and encrustation. This resulted in a tendency to run hot at high rpms. If the cover plate on the exhaust gets hot when running, you may have this problem. Removing the valve can be tricky if it is badly corroded. You should be aware that these engines are no longer being produced, so that parts are becoming more expensive every year, and more difficult to find. When you first turn the key to the on position, the overheat warning horn should sound. This tells you that it is functioning. If this alarm does not seem to be working, it was probably disconnected to keep it from sounding. That would be a bad sign. If the alarm is working, and you run at full throttle for about five minutes, and the alarm does not sound, the cooling system is probably okay. Examine the spark plugs after running for a while. Look for any unusual deposits there.
 |
   
Rick
| | Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2003 - 10:16 pm: |
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If purchasing from a dealer, get assurance that the charging system is working properly. If the charging system is original and something fails, the repair may involve a stator/voltage regulator update kit which is very expensive. Also look at PT/T if so equipted. They were only marginal when new, and again expensive to repair. Good luck. Rick |
   
john
| | Posted on Sunday, January 05, 2003 - 05:09 pm: |
|
I own a 1884 force 125 that I had rebuilt about 6 years ago. It is a great running engine. However, due to the fact that parts are now very difficult to get...I would suggest staying away. CD ignition units are out of sight to replace..if you can even find them. I still am using my force 125, however promised myself that if anything that involves even moderate $ for replacement occurs...time for a new engine. |
   
john
| | Posted on Sunday, January 05, 2003 - 05:10 pm: |
|
I own a 1984 force 125 that I had rebuilt about 6 years ago. It is a great running engine. However, due to the fact that parts are now very difficult to get...I would suggest staying away. CD ignition units are out of sight to replace..if you can even find them. I still am using my force 125, however promised myself that if anything that involves even moderate $ for replacement occurs...time for a new engine. |
   
Tonyob (Tonyob)
| | Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 10:42 am: |
|
To all, If you own a Force, it is a good idea to look for a blown engine that you can scavenge parts from (especially electrical components). That is the only way to beat the rising cost for these parts. Generally you will have to buy rebuilt stators and trigger coils (which cost about the same as new) anyway. I have had some trouble with the fit of rebuilt units. Even I don't believe some of the things I did to make them work. These ignition systems are extremely fragile. Any mistakes can lead to disaster when troubleshooting. Tony |
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