Please help in starting my 1957 7.5 E...

Author Message   Lance Mezger Posted on Friday, January 03, 2003 - 12:03 am:    It hasn't been started in about five years. I pulled the plugs and it has spark. I also put fresh gas in it and still won't fire. I was wondering if I should use a little starting fluid, but where should I spray it. Should I pull the carborator and clean it or what. I am new to this stuff and any help would be greatly appreciated thanks for your time.   Jdkline (Jdkline) Posted on Friday, January 03, 2003 - 12:09 am:    Yes, definitely pull the carburetor and clean it. Get a rebuild kit and replace whatever you can. It'll cost you about $18-30, but welll worth it. I bet you'll finf that carb is full of a ton of gunk.   Joereeves (Joereeves) Posted on Friday, January 03, 2003 - 07:43 am:    Lance.... That's excellent advice from JD. After you rebuild that carb, you can adjust it properly as follows: (Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs) Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. Setting the high and low needle valves properly: (High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting. (Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway. Joe   Sparky Posted on Friday, January 03, 2003 - 07:01 pm:    Check to make sure you have at least a spark that will jump a gap of 1/4". Putting a plug on the block is simply not an indication of the STRENGTH of the ignition system. Cracked coils were a common problem on the OMC motors.   Rick Posted on Saturday, January 04, 2003 - 10:25 pm:    Lance Intro to Mechanics 101: Spark. Fuel. Compression. All of the suggestions above are good, but don't put the cart ahead of the horse. Although the problem is most likely fuel related, make sure the fuel valve is open and fuel is flowing freely from the tank to the carb. Even though plugs are firing when tested, they could me shorting out against the block when installed. Visually inspect the common sence items, determine which of the three elements listed above is missing, then proceed to correct it. Good luck Rick   Mr Pat Posted on Monday, January 06, 2003 - 06:41 pm:    I work on these all the time. Check the compresion first above 50 would be good will probably come up after running.After sitting for years the carb must be rebuilt. Also pull flywheel and clean and adj points to .020 be very very carefull a good setting on points is critical. Spark must be as sparky says. If it does not start pull plug and check for gas. Float must be level when upside down Start with both carb adj out 1 and a 1/4 and adj high speed first. adj carb several times. Don't do impeller unless it does not pump well. You must pull powerhead to replace impeller. Make sure all fuel lines and orings are working as well as the tanks ability to hold pressure. tighten cap when running it should build up pressure and hold it for at least ten minutes after shutting off engine.

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