MarineEngine.com - Your best connection for marine engines, parts, service, and information. View Cart / Check Out Contact MarineEngine.com Ordering and Shipping Information Free Engine Classifieds Engine Parts Discussion Board Engine Manuals Home / Directory
add bookmark or favorites | email this page
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

VRO To be or not to be????

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Archive of all topics » Outboard motors archive » 2002 July - Sept » VRO To be or not to be???? « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

M. Windham
Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have just purchased a boat with an 89 GT175 Evinrude. The moter runs great except for a slight missing at full throttle when I first put it in the water. Later on the missing goes away after it has ran for 15-20 minutes. If I run it at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle it will never miss. I think it may be carb cleaning time. Yes/No/Maybe?

Any way the 3-wire VRO pump seems to work ok (blue smoke coming out while trolling) but I am scared of it. I have read every post that talks about VRO and need some help. Take it off and stop worrying, buy a replacement since it is over 10 yrs old, or what?

There has got to be a reason why I read about so many powerheads being rebuilt on these motors. Is it VRO? Bad cooling design?

What to do?

Thanks MSW
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdkline (Jdkline)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I've heard that the three wire VROs can fail without warning resulting in you running straight gas. This will likely cause serious engine damage. OMC later developed a four wire VRO that was much more reliable, but as to whether or not you can upgrade to that or how much it'd cost you, I don't know. Hopefully Joe or Sparky will weigh in. Those guys really know their stuff. As to getting rid of the VRO, the only disadvantage I can think of is that you would have to mix the oil with the gas. A small price to pay for keeping your motor in one piece. Remember to plug the VRO pump and the intake if you disable it so that air is not drawn into the fuel system. Good luck.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

sparky
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 06:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

the VRO pump itself is a nice unit. The problems that occur are from the installation of the tank,air leakage ,filters and reliability of warning systems.The best way is to mix gas and oil and that is peace of mind. Other systems have plastic gears driving oil pumps and little hoses that can fall off ,all scary stuff.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Joereeves (Joereeves)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

M. Windham.... The three (3) wire VRO could give off a false warning, hence the reason for the upgrade to a four (4) wire warning system. The original four (4) wire VRO has also been superceeded quite a few times for various reasons. Should you decide to do away with the automatic oiling setup, you can do the following.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

Joeomc
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bob Lane
Posted on Sunday, July 28, 2002 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

RE VRO issues: I have a 225 Johnson, 86' which is continually missing at low rpms 1500 - 2500. At top end it runs very good, but getting there can often mean bogging down and even killing the engine. The plugs especially the lower plugs are usually oily but otherwise appear good. I suspect it may be the VRO since I just had the unit dyno-tested about 40 hours ago and they replaced the ignition pack on the right side. Questions: Since I use the engine for trolling do you think I just need to run it at high rpm for a while to get the oil out of the cylinders?
2 - Should I disconnect the VRO and use per mixed gas? 3 - I have an 80 gal in hull tank -- can you really mix oil and gas in the tank and assume it will stay mixed?

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page


Home / Directory | Engine Manuals | Engine Parts | Discussion Board | Free Classifieds | Orders / Shipping | Contact Us | View Cart

About Us | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy
MarineEngine.com, 184 Jones Dr., Brandon, VT 05733 USA
Phone: 802-247-4700 FAX: 802-301-1034 info@marineengine.com
Copyright © 2000 - 2007 by MarineEngine.com, Inc. All rights reserved
   
Traduca
EspanolEspanol
Traduisez
FrancaisFrancais
Traduza
PortuguesePortuguese
Traduca
Italiano
Ubersetzen
Deutschen
  
Sierra Marine Catalog
Seloc Online Manuals
Product Categories
Engine Parts · By Brand
Engine Manuals · By Brand
Books
General Repair and Maint.
Care and Repair
· Adhesive and Sealants
· Bottom Cleaners
· Cleaners Wax and Polish
· Mops Brushes and Sponges
Covers and Tops
· Bimini Tops   · Hardware
· Cover Accessories
· Motor Covers
· Universal Boat Covers
Electronics
· Gauges and Compasses
· Mounts and Accessories
Electrical
· Batteries & Chargers
· Battery Accessories
· Dockside Electrical
· Electrical Terminals
· Electrical Wire, Cable
· Fuses, Fuse Holders
· Switches
· Wire Ties, Clips, Tape
Fuel Systems
· Fuel Tanks
· Fittings, Fills, Vents
· Hose & Primer Bulbs
· Filters, Senders, Caps
Hardware
· Deck Cabin Hardware
· Molding and Rub Rails
· Rails and Fittings
· Snaps Shackles and Hooks
· Windshield Hardware
Lighting
· Cabin Lights · Light Bulbs
· Navigation Light Parts
· Navigation Lights
· Spotlights   · Parts
Mooring and Dock
· Boat Fenders · Boat Hooks
· Buoys and Markers
· Deck Cleats · Dock Edging
· Dock Parts and De-Icers
· Fender Covers and Holders
· Keelshield / Toon-Tectors
· Ladders and Platforms
Prop / Trim / Transom
· Jack Plates, Wedges
· Mounting Brackets
· Outboard Stands
· Trim Tabs, Stablizers
· Prop Nuts, Locks, Pins
 · Propellers · Wrenches
Pumps
· Aerator Pumps
· Bilge Pumps
· Drain Plugs and Tubes
· Hose · Through Hull Fittings
Rope and Cordage
· Anchor Line   · Dock Line
· Fender Line   · Bulk Rope
· Shock Cord and Bungee
Safety Products
· Horns Bells and Whistles
· Mirrors
· Vents Blowers and Hose
Sanitation
· Fresh Water Pumps
· Marine Toilets
· Sanitation Chemicals
· Sanitation Pumps/Hose
· Water/Waste System Parts
Seating
· Deck Chairs and Tables
· Fishing Seats
· Lounge Seats
· Pontoon Furniture
· Seat Bases and Pedestals
Steering / Control
· Control Boxes
· Control Cables
· Hydraulic Steering
· Mechanical Steering
· Rigging · Steering Wheels
Tools / Shop Supplies
· Lubricants & Additives
· Motor Flushers
· Tools & Test Equipment
Trailering
· Boat Guides/Motor Support
· Hitches Balls Couplers
· Rollers Brackets Springs
· Tires Wheels and Carriers
· Trailer Hubs & Bearings
· Trailer Jacks
· Trailer Wiring and Lighting
· Winches Straps Tie Downs
 Manufacturer List