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| Max / Optimal RPM for 1988 70hp Evinrude |
| Author |
Message |
    
John
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2002 - 08:43 pm: | 
|
What kind of RPM should I expect to run this motor at? Also, this is the first motor I've owned with the VRO and am concerned about it. It just seems so much safer to mix the oil in the gas and know that I have lubrication. I guess I'll get use to it. Also, where's the best place to obtain the evinrude manuals for this motor. This is probably the most informative site on the net, I'm glad I found it! |
Joereeves (Joereeves)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 12:39 pm: |
|
John.... The VRO pump should have a warning system that consists of four (4) wires. Look at the back of that VRO and trace the wiring harness from it to a rubber plug. Check to see if it's a 3 wire or 4 wire system.
If it's a 4 wire, it's one of the latest systems of which you can consider it to be okay "IF" the warning horn beeps when you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. If the horn doesn't beep, find out why.
If the VRO is the 3 wire type and the horn beeps when you turn the key on, you may still consider it okay. The only problem with the 3 wire setup is that you could encounter a false warning which forces one to check their engine...but a false warning is better than no warning.
If you decide to do away with the auto mixture and mix the fuel in your tank. Disconnect the oil line at the engine and plug it so that the oil side of the VRO won't draw air. This converts the VRO to a straight fuel pump. Disconnect the rubber plug that leads to the VRO. Remove the oil tank, disconnecting the tank wiring at the engine.
That 1988 70hp hits its horsepower at 5500 rpm, and the full throttle operating range is from 5000 rpm to 6000 rpm. DO NOT EXCEED 6000 rpm.
Joe |
John
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 08:21 pm: |
|
Thanks for the response Joe!! I checked and it is a three wire system (black,grey and beige?). Unfortunatly, it doesn't beep when I turned the key to the on position. I'm planning to locate the alarm and manually put juice to it and see if the alarm is working. I have every reason to believe the vro is working because I just purchased the motor from a dealer who checked everything and gave a gaurante. Also, I ran it in the driveway a couple nights ago and it ran great and didn't overheat. Is the 3-wire system a less reliable system? |
Joereeves (Joereeves)
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 10:54 pm: |
|
John.... The 3 wire warning system is fine if it's working. Just make sure that the VRO electrical plug is hooked up as it should be.
Since it is a 3 wire system, I'd strongly surmise that the warning horn is a 2 wire type. This type horn does not have the beep when you turn the key on.
The horn can be tested as follows. Do not have the engine running, but have the key in the on position. At the cylinder head, you will see a tan wire leading out of a heat sensor. That tan wire will lead to either a rubber boot type sleeve or a single plug in connector. Gounding that wire should make the horn sound off. If it doesn't, find out why.
The horn warning circuitry is: 12v appled to one horn terminal when the key is on. The tan wire connected to the other horn terminal leads back to the tan cylinder head heat sensor wire and the tan wire leading to the VRO harness plug. As long as the VRO sensor and/or the heat sensor is open, the circuit is open and the horn doesn't sound off. When either of those sensors ground out due to overheating, low oil level in the tank, VRO failure, the horn engages.
Warnings are:
Constant steady beep = Overheating.
Beep every 20 seconds = Oil level at 1/4 mark.
Beep every other second = No oil, VRO failure.
Joe |
John
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 11:02 pm: |
|
Thanks Joe. I'll check that in the morning. It's sure nice of you to take the time to share your knowledge with all of us!!
John |
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