| Author |
Message |
    
Bob Zeinstra
| | Posted on Friday, April 05, 2002 - 10:45 am: | 
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Joe, A few days ago I posted a question on what to check if purchasing a rebuilt engine with a warranty.
A new opportunity popped up (maybe). It is a 1993 115HP Johnson fresh water motor. The power head was rebuilt in 1999. I am leary. I do not know the reason/cause for the rebuild - but I will be able to look at the service paper work. The price is attractive.
What to check beside compression? The seller is willing to pay the mechanic I pick. Ideas appreciated. |
Jon
| | Posted on Friday, April 05, 2002 - 01:40 pm: |
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Bob,
When I go look at a used outboard in a private sale, this is what I do;
1. check physical appearance for anything obvious; asses degree of corrosion, spin the prop around (see if the prop shaft is bent), pull of the cowling, see if there is anything that looks like it's been overheated, abused or dropped, cracked, look for leaking gear lube, leaking hydraulic fluid from the power tilt, check for anything mickey-moused, roate the steering wheel, be sure everything seems to turn smoothly, shake things around, measure the shaft length and check the numbers to be sure the seller isn't "mistaken", look for anything that looks out of place/hidden etc. etc..
2. pull out the drain plug (lower one) on lower unit and check the appearance of the lube; if it's black, it's been in there too long, or the lube got low and it got too hot or something; if it's milky white or there is water actually coming out, there is a sealing problem. Check the plug and lube for any large splinters of metal -small metal hairs/dust is common and is fine, but chunks or toothepick width splinters are BAD.
3. Have whoever is selling it get the engine set up, and start it yourself with the cowling off; it's a good idea to have the seller leave it cold until you show up, this way you know how hard it is to get it going. If you can, test drive it a WOT for 20 minutes or so and beat on it if he will let you; else, just have the seller play with the warm up lever so that it comes a little above a dead idle. Listen for raps or other strange noises.. it is a two stroke, so they do sound strange to begin with, especially on a flush attachment. Take a look at the carbs/lines to see if anything is leaking fuel; Listen to how it idles, it should be pretty smoothe.
4. With the engine running, and the warm up lever down (lowest idle), shift it in and out of foward and neutral and then reverse and neutral, a clunk is normal, an excessive grind is not. It should also be fairly smoothe, excessive friction could be cables, but on a 1999 there shouldn't be a problem there.
5. Kill the engine and play with the power tilt; check the compression and give it another once-over. Take a real hard look at the plugs, they should all look about the same when they come out, and should be free of metal particles. If the gear lube was clean when you checked it (recently changed), take a look at it again after you have done some shifting.
As you can see I am not the guy to be selling an outboard to.. If you check things the way I just described you will probably find something wrong with most used outboards, it just depends on the cost of repair and what you are looking to pay. Good luck,
Jon Sterritt |
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