| Author |
Message |
    
joe golladay
New member
Username: joepro
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2006 - 08:22 pm: | 
|
hey folks. i know for a first post it has to be a question.. lol.. but actually i have alot of questions about this motor.. i just acquired this motor today and have never owned an outboard this old before. so here goes. it starts fine.. first question.. who made it. serial number is 21759431 and what website do you go to to check you number to see who the mfg. is? second question.. of course if you know this motor you know that the throttle is not on the tiller.. choke, throttle, carb adjustment are all on the panel.. from the left on the throttle you have stop and midways you have start. now on the left side of it is a lever where your fwd, reverse, neutral would normally be but this motor has no reverse so it says drive, neutral.. when you have it neutral you cannot put the throttle past the start postion.. when in drive you can throttle it all the way.. it also says clutch shallow water drive on the panel.. the motor can be fed from the top tank or an external tank.. both work as i have already cleaned everything out and put new hoses on it.. i stuck it in a barrell with water and it started very easily.. but the prop turns when you start it and when it starts. i would have thought that the clutch would not engage the prop till throttled past the start position..but at idle when it warms up and at the start position the prop turns.. is this normal for this motor? does it not have an adjustment so that the prop does not engage at idle or start throttle? seems like it would so you wouldnt push yourself into something while on the water while starting it.. third question... does the motor turn all the way around since it has no reverse? or just shut it down .. get your boat pointed in the direction you want to go and start it? doesnt seem right to me.. lol.. any help appreciated.. thanks in advance. joe. |
Jim Hawkins
Member
Username: jim_hawkins
Post Number: 36
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Friday, November 03, 2006 - 05:45 pm: |
|
Hey Joe...Go to www.searsparts.com and go to the parts page, then where it says put in model no# put in that 217....number you found and it will take you to the parts and picture diagrams of that engine. Yes you turn the engine to go backwards, Don't know about clutch??? I think the prop turns all the time?? Hope this helps...JIM |
Alan Thomas
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2007 - 01:12 pm: |
|
I have a ted williamns 7.5 air cooled I was wanting to know thefuel mix and how to start it the gas cap on top do I need to close the air vent or leave it open and what about the gas valve open all the way |
joe golladay
New member
Username: joepro
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2007 - 02:54 pm: |
|
alan.. is it the tecumseh motor? if so i ran mine at 50:1... some say you could run it at 25:1 but for an old motor i wasnt taking any chances and added the extra oil to the mix.. as far as starting it just unscrew the cap and put it back on before you start it.. that will let the air in so that the gas can flow. once started you can unscrew the vent a little to let it flow while running.. also is it set up to run an external tank also? and if it is does it have the original connection valve on it with the check valve so that gas wont run back out the external tank valve? in other words if you put gas in the top tank and open the gas valve does gas run out the external tank fitting? if it doesnt the check valve is working properly and nothing to worry about.. and yes open the gas valve open all the way.. only when you run an external tank should you close it.. hope that helped.. joe.. |
ian hawkins
New member
Username: doubletap
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2007 - 11:26 pm: |
|
hello,
i have a ted williams outboard with a Tecumseh motor, i picked it up out of the trash. i took it apart to see what was up with it. turns out the part that holds the connecting rod to the crank shaft with the two screws broke in half. Where could i get this part?
also the cover for it is missing so i don't know anything about it except for it has a Tecumseh engine.
Thanks,
Ian |
Graham Lamb
Senior Member
Username: galamb
Post Number: 2062
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 02:48 am: |
|
Ian, you can start with any small engine place that sells/services Tecumseh.
These outboards are more lawnmower than a "conventional" outboard. Engine parts should be mostly available.
If you can get it running then perhaps you can find a cover on Ebay (or the like).
The outboard itself (complete) was built by Eska, for Sears, using a Tecumseh motor..... |
ian hawkins
New member
Username: doubletap
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2007
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 07:46 pm: |
|
Thank you Graham much appreciated |
joe golladay
Member
Username: joepro
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2006
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 09:31 pm: |
|
ian.. if you have the same motor look at the part number i have posted before at the start of this thread.. then go to the link and locate the parts and service section of the site.. it has diagrams of the motor and serviceable parts and if you fill out an order form it will tell you if you can still order it.. as in my situation the clutch dog went bad and as was my luck you can no longer get this part anywhere.. so i welded it solid and run the motor as a direct drive.. it is still chugging mud to this day.. the bad news is there are not many parts that you can still get for these motors.. if it is the part i am thinking of a local machine shop should be able to make you a new one fairly cheap.. if not alot of boat repair shops love these motors for parts as they are hard to find with useable parts still in them.. i found two motors like mine at a local boat motor shop but they had the same problem mine had.. hope that helped.. joe. |
William Cleaver
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2008 - 12:07 am: |
|
Alright, I hate to hijack a thread so I'll apologize in advance. I also have a sears Ted William 5.5 horsepower outboard with fuel issues. I guess my first question is where do you find the model number on these? I've looked all over the machine and still haven't found one. I tried Joe Golladay's number as a default and the parts breakdown looks very similar but I'd like to be sure. Second, if www.searspartsdirect.com doesn't have that part any longer, where else can I look for it? |
ian hawkins
Member
Username: doubletap
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2008 - 04:33 pm: |
|
William have you tried ebay? |
William Cleaver
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2008 - 09:19 pm: |
|
Well, I have browsed through ebay and someone did have a carb for a 7hp so at least it looks the same. Thing is, I just need a few gaskets. Namely, the base gasket and the one behind the plate where the fuel enters. I still have a place or two I could try for those, but as a last resort I guess I could always try a liquid gasket. Man I hate that option. |
ian hawkins
Member
Username: doubletap
Post Number: 6
Registered: 10-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2008 - 07:26 pm: |
|
I hope every thing works out. and good luck to ya. |
scott puffer
Member
Username: brim_buster
Post Number: 16
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Monday, March 10, 2008 - 07:20 am: |
|
www.3sears.com sanfords goodies ebay certified parts corp. |
C Dyer
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2008 - 12:53 am: |
|
Mr. Cleaver: I rebuilt one of these Eska/Sears kickers a few years ago (mine is a 5 h.p.) and I couldn't get the gaskets from Sears. I bought a gasket material assortment from NAPA. I wiped the mating surfaces with ink pad ink, then printed them on the gasket. Cut out with an X-acto knife, and they worked great. FWIW. |
Lewis W. Thompson
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 06:51 pm: |
|
Any help will be appreciated; I have inherited a Sears/Ted Williams 7hp "Solid State, twist grip, clutch shift, shallow water drive", ? used with inspection sticker inplace, outboard motor. What yr. might it have been made? What is it worth on the antique market or is it an antique? Or should I crank it up and use it? Thanks, LWT |
Wayne Rowlinson
Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 59
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 11:42 pm: |
|
Your motor is likely from the mid 70s. If you can locate a model number it will be easy to track. It will probably start with a 217. The bad news is that it is virtually worthless as an antique as there are tons of similar motors out there. They were a value engine made by Eska for Sears, likely with a Tecumseh engine. Most people consider them a lesser engine than a Johnson/Evinrude/Mercury etc.
The good news is that they are very easy to work on due to their simplicity and for the most part are very reliable. If your motor is in good running condition it would be valueable as a fishing motor or kicker for a bigger boat. I've had people tease me that my similar motors aren't worth $50, but when you look at the price of a new 7 hp motor, a good running Gamefisher/Eska suddenly looks good.
In my opinion, if you have a way to use your motor, enjoy it. |
Lewis W. Thompson
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 10:03 am: |
|
Thank you Wayne. The model # is 217-59440
Lewis |
Wayne Rowlinson
Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 60
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 12:04 pm: |
|
It is a 1971. I'm impressed it has solid state ignition. You might find the following link useful for fuel mixture, plug type, and part numbers. As well, you can go to www3.sears.com and use your part number to find replacement parts.
Scott Puffer has mentioned above a couple other places to look for parts if you ever need them.
http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/Model21758890-59900.htm |
Wayne Rowlinson
Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 61
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Friday, July 11, 2008 - 12:08 pm: |
|
Sorry for the double post, I meant go to www3.sears.com and use your MODEL number (217-59440) to find replacement parts. |
JAMES MCPHAIL
New member
Username: jimbo1
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 - 09:16 am: |
|
Ihave a 5.5 T.W. Picked up for $25. Took apart the carb and cleaned her up. I get gas to the carb but not into the carb. Took back apart and ports look good. Can start with starting fluid (Iknow "BAD") but will not stay running. Do I need to do something with the idle adjust? Choke? Trash?
Thanks |
Wayne Rowlinson
Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 70
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 - 01:08 pm: |
|
Do you mean that you can't get fuel into the float bowl at all? Does this motor have an external tank, or just the internal one? If you are running off the internal one, do you have the fuel valve open on the side of the engine? There is a fuel element pump inside the carburetor that hardens up over time and needs to replaced. It is cheap, but will give you all kinds of grief if it's hardened. Hopefully this is a start. What is the model number? As for using starting fluid, I'd make some out of gas and oil. Being very careful how I handled it of course. |
JAMES MCPHAIL
New member
Username: jimbo1
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 - 04:25 pm: |
|
model# 217-5998-0
It does have the hook up for an external tank. I closed the valve and put new gas in the tank on the motor. When I took the carb apart There was this red rubber cone. I cleaned it up and it looks fine. Not hard.
If I unscrew the plate that my gas line is hooked to frm the carb, I get gas to that point. If I unscrew the carb from the motor, I get gas to that point. But the inside of my carb seems dry and no gas in the float bowl. I am going to tear it apart again tonight. Maybe I missed something. |
JAMES MCPHAIL
New member
Username: jimbo1
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 07:29 am: |
|
Ok. I used a piece of tubing like a turky baster and spit gas into the carb (better than starting fluid). It took right off. Did this a few times. But it will not stay running. It dies within a few seconds. I cannot pull start it. I took the carb back off and cleaned it out. Blew wwd40 through all the port holes in it. Put my mouth on the fuel tank and blew air and gas through the lines so they are clear of obstruction. The float bowl was near empty again?? What am I missing? |
Wayne Rowlinson
Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 72
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 11:27 am: |
|
I'm guessing that the fuel is not getting past the inlet needle properly. Bad needle, or the float is not set correctly. By the way, for what it's worth, your motor is a 1974. You can get a bit more info at http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/Model21759980-585861.htm
*** I just noticed in your post that you said you closed the valve. That valve has to be open to allow the fuel from the internal tank to get into the carburetor. You close it if you are using an external tank. Maybe this is all that is wrong? I hope so. Good luck. |
tim treon
New member
Username: timmy460
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 11:09 am: |
|
Hello, I have 1975 Ted Williams 7.5TG hp motor. I was wondering if anyone knew what the "TG" stood for? Also what is the flat head screw that says vent down by the prop for? And just one more question... The gas mix sticker on the motor cover says to only use "leaded" gasoline, where do I get leaded gas in the year 2008? Thanks so much if anyone can answer any of these questions. |
Graham Lamb
Senior Member
Username: galamb
Post Number: 3715
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 08:18 pm: |
|
Tim, the TG stands for "Twist Grip" - this was a "new" thing where the throttle was in the tiller handle on these little motors.
The vent screw is removed when you are filling the lower unit gear oil - lets the air out during the filling.
You can use "unleaded" with decent results. It can sometimes play nasty with older gas lines (like the short one under the hood between the fitting/fuel pump and carb), so it's worth spending a couple bucks at a local auto parts place and replacing the original with a new piece of bulk auto gas hose.
If you are really concerned about the lack of lead in the gas, companies like STP make lead substitutes (sold at many auto parts stores) - but from experience, I wouldn't waste the money. The lead helped lube some of the internal parts, but modern 2 cycle oil and unleaded gas is working fine in many motors produced back in the 50's and even earlier... |
tim treon
New member
Username: timmy460
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 08:43 pm: |
|
Hey Graham thanks... I would not have even known about lower gear oil, any advice on where to look to fill or check this? I suppose I should check for a regular engine oil dip stick also on this motor. I just bought this used but I want to make sure everything is full and good when I take it to the lake to test it out tomorrow. Thanks again. |
Graham Lamb
Senior Member
Username: galamb
Post Number: 3717
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Friday, July 25, 2008 - 12:44 am: |
|
The lower gear oil can be checked by loosening the "fill" screw (will be a couple inches below the vent you mentioned).
The oil may be a range of colour from honey to dark brown. It's best to change it anually. At that time you usually collect some in a small glass jar and let it sit for a bit. You are looking for water to separate out which would indicate a lower seal problem. You can also catch a drop between your fingers and rub it - any "gritty" feeling would indicate gear wear/breakdown. If the oil looks something like cold coffee or chocolate milk, that is a sign of water intrusion - not always a totally bad thing, but something to keep an eye on and would indicate that the oil should maybe be changed twice yearly.
Aside from the lower gear oil, nothing to check as far as fluid levels go. The engine oil is mixed with the gas and there is no other fluids... |
tim treon
New member
Username: timmy460
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Friday, July 25, 2008 - 05:52 am: |
|
Graham, thanks again for all the advice. You are right about the two stroke oil lubricating the rest of the motor also, i realized this after I posted. Thanks |
Gene Nehls
New member
Username: genoshawg
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, November 22, 2008 - 05:12 pm: |
|
Hello all, I have inherited a 7.5 hp Ted Williams outboard from my Father in Law. He aquired it in an estate sale and it has apparently set up for several years. I know the water pump and various other parts will have to be replaced. Ya'll have been discussing where to find parts but I do not know the model or serial number or the year model. Where do I find these on the motor? |
Tim Kellay
Member
Username: tim_k
Post Number: 8
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, November 22, 2008 - 11:46 pm: |
|
Gene - I would recommend starting a new thread for your question rather than add to a very old one to avoid confusion (hopefully). Having said that - Look for a number that starts with 217 (Sears model #), on a plate/tag somewhere. I would suggest looking on the top and sides of the transom clamp first, you might need to turn the head of the motor to one side or the other to see it. Often covered with crud. I have sometimes seen the number on the bottom of the power head pan. Air cooled, but there is a really skinny impeller that cools the exhaust and the bottom of the power head, I'm told. Don't know how critical it is. Check marineengine.com for parts first, but I suspect you will have more luck with one of these links:
http://www.boatsportandtackle.com/servlet/the-ESKA--dsh--Sears--fdsh--Ted-Wms/Ca tegories
http://www.discount-marine-parts.com/index.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/
http://stores.ebay.com/sanfords-goodies
P.S. - There were a few Eskas (makers of Ted Williams and others) that had full water cooling, but most are as stated. |
Wayne Rowlinson
Advanced Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 165
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 01:14 pm: |
|
Once you find the model number, enter it at http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Sears still has some parts available for your motor.
Tim had it right about the impeller, and yes, it is important to engine cooling. Even though the powerhead is air cooled, don't run it out of water or you'll kill the impeller. The motor will overheat without the impeller doing its job. |
John Moss
New member
Username: jem6677
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 08:01 pm: |
|
I am starting to work on a Ted Williams 5.5 hp outboard but it is missing the spark plug. Anybody know what plug will work in this engine? Thanks |
Wayne Rowlinson
Advanced Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 185
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 09:46 pm: |
|
You can find some info at http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/Model21758890-59900.htm
The J13Y has since been replaced with RJ12YC.
I hope this helps.
Edit *** I just noticed you didn't specify the model or year of your motor. I was assuming it was a 1973 5.5. If it is something else, either look at the chart in the link I sent, or post your model number. |
John Moss
New member
Username: jem6677
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 02:42 pm: |
|
Thanks for the response. I checked the model and it is 217-5998-0. I do not see this model on the link that was sent.
Thanks again |
Graham Lamb
Senior Member
Username: galamb
Post Number: 4608
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 02:52 pm: |
|
John, that's a 1974, Eska built, single cylinder model.
The powerhead itself is a Tecumseh model 643 motor which saw service on thousands of lawnmowers in the mid-70's.
The RJ12YC will work fine, or you can stop in a small engine shop that deals with Tecumseh and they can give you other options... |
Joe Morgan
Member
Username: jojo663
Post Number: 14
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, March 19, 2009 - 02:50 am: |
|
James about not getting fuel into the bowl, just behind the fuel inlet fitting where the gas line connects to the carb there is a check valve, if you used carb cleaner on it you probably damaged this little rubber valve and need to replace it, how do I know this?? I just did it to mine i have a 3.5 gamefisher and was cleaning the carb, It got gas fine until i used carb cleaner just once though the fuel line fitting then nothing, I'm waiting on my check valve to come in from sears now. this thing is pressed into the body so you have to remove it with a puller and have the new one pressed in no fun there, but necessary. Good luck. |
John Wilson
New member
Username: luvtheoldies
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Monday, April 13, 2009 - 03:09 am: |
|
Hey people I've tried the sears parts place and have come up with nothing.I was reading other peoples inquiries about Ted Williams outboards I have a 5.5 hp air-cooled with the overhead tank or the external tank but my numbers are not starting with 217,on my plate I have two sets of numbers I'm guessing model and serial,anyhow here they are 14024A and GA-035139 can anybody get any info cause I'm not having any luck Lil John Help please and thank-you. |
Wayne Rowlinson
Advanced Member
Username: winman99
Post Number: 205
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 13, 2009 - 10:15 am: |
|
Check http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/Model1976-14061.htm
It's a 1976 5.5. It's listed under Eska for Sears Canada. Does it say Sears Canada on it, or does it actually say Gamefisher? Not that it matters, I'm just curious.
You can compare it to the 1975 Sears Gamefisher model (217585710). I don't know if it is the same, but hopefully it is. |
John Wilson
Member
Username: luvtheoldies
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Monday, April 13, 2009 - 04:10 pm: |
|
No Wayne it just says T.W.5.5 but at the bottom of the I.D. tag it had Simpso imitied on it,the tag has damage on it right in the middle at the bottom,but hey thanks alot for the info,the thing has good compression and spark but the carb is a little bit rusty so I'll see what I can do with it,will keep ya posted. |
chuck freeman
New member
Username: mc_guff
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2009
| | Posted on Monday, May 04, 2009 - 07:22 pm: |
|
meatal tag no.t-643-14a serial no.6705207/like to know what year it is?,it now has a two blade prop.can it be replaced with a three blade? and are parts available? |
bruce scott
New member
Username: waldome
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
|
Is there a maintenance manual for a ted williams 5.5 hp outboard motor. Looking for info on carburetor, needle valve,float level...
thanks for reading this post |
Bob Wolf
New member
Username: bob_wolf
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 08:39 pm: |
|
I hate to add another question to this line-but here goes. I just got a 1973 3 hp Eska/Sear outboard. Am in process of rebuilding the lower unit(was seized up-gears "OK"). Maybe a bigger problem is that the power head will not run. It will start sometimes, but surges from high rpm to about O rpm on a 10 sec frequency and dies after a time. I have cleaned the carb, ck'd popint gap and compression is about 80 psi. Any thoughts on this running problem.
Thanks |
Bob Setzer
Member
Username: eskaguy30525
Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2008
| | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 01:15 am: |
|
Bob, check your reed assembly first |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 111
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 02:05 am: |
|
Mr Wolf If all else fails- you will find your bottom seal blown. There were three styles of seal. One was 2"+ and the same size as the outer race of the bottom crank bearing. Another was much smaller but the same steel backed rubber seal we all know and love---THEN there was the unsupported rubber lipped "O" ring style the size of the big timkin used in that model. This one had a blind snap ring and aluminum support ring. Best way was to remove crankshaft and pick it out with some tiny persons finger nail. You can test all 3 seals by spraying liberally with wd-40 and spinning the motor. The leakers will bubble. Hope it is just the reed valves- but they usually pop a big flame out the carb. |
Bob Wolf
New member
Username: bob_wolf
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 11:18 am: |
|
Thanks Bob & William!! I will ck each-what should I look for in the reed assy-bent and such reeds that may not seal?.
Over the week end I found that the condenser is shorted out (Ordering new points and condenser)- could this cause a surging problem.
I also have questions regarding the rebuid of the lower unit. That is the drive shaft and prop shaft are a little pitted in the busing area a slightly groove at the seals. Because of cost for new shafts and the condition of the ones I have, I am considering just replacing the seals and get what life I can from this motor with out putting a lot of $ into it - any thoughts?
Thanks again - I am learning a lot and I guess that is what all this tinkering with old stuff is all about! |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 115
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 01:03 am: |
|
The seal cuts on the shafts is quite common as any exposure to salt and they pitted and deteriorated rather quickly. I've pulled many lowers that were packed with white grease as the shafts and seals wouldn't hold "real" oil. Didn't seem to hurt them any.
Nothing like the smell of varnished gasoline in the morning. |
Bob Wolf
New member
Username: bob_wolf
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:06 pm: |
|
William & Bob--Well I ck'd out the reed valves and saw nothing wrong (all seemed to be sealing and not burnt) and I ck'd out the bottom crank seal (took motor apart to point where I could see the seal-put in plug and turned by hand and did not see any bubbles.
I just got and replaced the points and condenser-motor now starts after doing this (just ahead of "START" advnace mark) and runs very rough just ahead of the "START" mark. If I try to advance speed it dies and if I apply and choke it dies too??
I putting the motor back togather I had no reed box gasket (old one broke up) so I cut a new one of thinner mat't and put no setting Permetex on both side (very carefullY) and I had to reuse the carb gasket, so I carefully sanded it flat and parallel.
I have not changed the plug.
ANY IDEAS????
Thanks |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 171
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:56 pm: |
|
Really sounds like you are getting to much fuel in the med to high range. If you have an adjustable main jet sticking out the bottom of the float bowl, would set it to 1/2 turn and try again. Advance throttle till it runs crapy and close that adjustment. There was a thin gasket on the inside of some carbs- between the nut or(adjustment) that holds on the float bowl. and where it threaded on to the carb. This seal forced all the main jet fuel thru it instead of straight up the threads and would run rich.
To install you had to thread the main jet/nut thru the carb bowl and put the gasket on it from the inside, then put the bowl on the carb.
Hope thats it.
Make sure your ignition is not dropping out on you. I have even tested ignitions with a big drill and socket on the flywheel nut. Get it spinning and watch the spark for miss fires (when on the bench.) |
Bob Wolf
Member
Username: bob_wolf
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 02:44 pm: |
|
Willaim-Thanks,
My carb does not have an adjustment sticking out the bottom of the float bowel-it does not have any adjustment anywhere that I can see. The float has a "hollow bolt" holding the bowl to the carb-the bolt has a very small hole thru it's wall into it's hollow center. There is a thin fiber gasket between the bolt head and the bowl. Is there posseibly some adjustment somewhere that I can not see?
Again thanks for the fast response- I appreciate the help.
I will check the spark for drop out at some higher flywheel speed |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 172
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 03:03 pm: |
|
You have a fixed main jet (that's the little holes) They are usually a little oblong from being over tightened, but it doesn't seem to hurt their performance.
You may have an emulsion tube air vent or float bowl vent plugged. They are right in the throat of the carb near where it starts to neck down. Spray carb cleaner in them and see if it comes out the bottom of the carb body where the float bowl might be. They are only just a little bigger than your main jet holes are. |
Bob Wolf
Member
Username: bob_wolf
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 08:46 pm: |
|
William - thanks!!! I blew carb cleaner & compressed air thru the air vent tube from the bowl side, thru the needle valve orifice and thru what I take is the main jet ( in threaded hole that the hollow bowl bolt goes into and all were clear. I noted that there is a gap between the inside of the bowl and the knob/protrusion that the main jet is in, before the bolt is inserted and tightened (probably closes when the bolt is tighten). There is no gasket between the bowl and that protrusion-just on the outside of the bowl and the bolt head.
I also spun the flywheel as fast I could using a socket speed crank and saw no drop off in spark. The spark was not terribly bright but it was easliy seen in daylight.
I reassembled and the motor ran as before-that is only at one advance/speed setting (just ahead of "START" and very roughly.
I am running the motor with the exhaust in a bucket of water (without drive shaft, gears and prop) and notice that the exhaust is very explosive when the engine fires, I don't know if that is normal? You sure seem to be right about too much fuel as there is a lot of oil floating on top of the water in my bucket and the plug is alway wet whenever I take it out.
Could there be timing issues-I don't know the history of this motor other than the previous owner said that it was last run about four years ago and it has to be serviced before it could be used then.
Thanks again!!! |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 182
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 09:39 pm: |
|
They run like crap with out all the lower and water pump spinning. Suggest you put it all back together and try again.
The pin off the carb that rubs on the ignition advance likes to work loose and then your throttle trails the ignition. See if that is firmly riveted to the carb. If not get a hot solder gun and solder it in place. When the throttle stops, WOT, make sure the throttle plate is wide open. On the cam the throttle pin rides on should be a punch mark-- that is when the cam should be starting to open the throttle. |
bruce levesque
New member
Username: brucelevesque
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 08:19 pm: |
|
i am looking for a propeller for the 5hp sears clutch shift motor. serial number 217-59311, does anyone have one or where I could get this with the hardware to mount?
thanks |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 271
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 09:02 pm: |
|
You might try "Sanford 's goodies" on E-Bay, or "Eska Certified Parts" or "Crowley Marine" |
Bob Cooper
New member
Username: we_be_huntin
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 11:48 pm: |
|
Thanks to all, I am new to this Forum and you have answered all my questions about the Sears outboard I have, Thank you very much!!
Bob |
jacques barriault
New member
Username: erb
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 01:03 am: |
|
i recently purchased a 5.5hp ted williams motor and i was wondering how you can tell if the water pump is working should there be water squirting out somewhere? |
bruce levesque
New member
Username: brucelevesque
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 06:38 pm: |
|
yes, the water should be when you put it in gear. when in nuetral but still running there will be no water, but ingear the water comes out from towards the top.
hope this helps |
douglas r. becraft
New member
Username: douglasnc
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 10:53 pm: |
|
hi, can i convert from old style fuel tank to new style tank and just change the connector on end of fuel line to the old female end that fits engine? Also I need sheer pins for this engine. ordered two from sears and may have ordered wrong number..Ordered part #22 my engine is a 1974 eska 7.5 with the Tecumshe powerhead...#217 5949-1...could some one check behind me to see if i've ordered the wrong number for sheer pins?Thanks guys, |
Bob Setzer
Member
Username: eskaguy30525
Post Number: 39
Registered: 12-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 11:19 pm: |
|
Hi, Yes you can put your old fitting on a new style tank, And it appears to me that you ordered the correct shear pin (item # 22) Good luck..... |
douglas r. becraft
New member
Username: douglasnc
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 - 09:31 am: |
|
Thanks Bob,Parts arrived today and seem to be correct other than they are not brass.Maybe aluminum? Got engine running today also. It ran sorta rough and would smooth out as it reved up then stumble and die.Fooled with screw with spring, and didnt note much change unless it was screwed all the way in.Would it be ok to opperate engine out of water for short times if it's left in neutral as it only pumps water while in gear?...Thanks again |
