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Message |
    
Ryan Miller
New member
Username: dogfisher
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 02:17 pm: | 
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I have a Sears Gamerfisher 12' aluminum jon boat with a 1975 Tecumseh Ted Williams 7.5 outboard #217.586110. I got it to run but can't get the prop to turn. It spins freely by hand so I know it's not seized up. There's a lever on the side that looks like the right one but it doesn't make it turn. What could cause that?? |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 206
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 05:23 pm: |
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They had (most of them) a wire wound double drum bendix with a sleeve round it for a neutral clutch. If the allen screw which secured it to the crank shaft came out it would spin free. If the wire round the drum broke at it's anchor it would spin. If the wire broke at the sleeve it would be stuck in gear.
There was another design where they had an honest clutch dog on a spring and long splines on the drive shaft all operated by a yoke on the shift arm. If you even dropped the lower unit off all that fell into the exhaust and the only way to get it back on was with removing the power head and carefully reassembling it.
Now the last- and easiest is the shear pin on the prop. You will find spares under the lifting handle. If you would like the book on that I can send you there?? e-mail me. |
Tom
New member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 03:25 pm: |
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I have a 7.5hp Gamefisher with a design similar to what you describe in your second paragraph. However, this one has a cover plate on the side of the lower unit which you remove to gain access to a screw which, upon removal, disconnects the shift linkage. At that point, the lower unit can be removed. It doesn't seem that you need to remove the powerhead to reassemble everything. Maybe this is a third style that Eska had, in addition to the first two that you describe? |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 279
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 09:45 pm: |
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Tom, you have the "high end" motor as described towards the end of the book under the title "Full shift lower unit" This motor had a reverse, and proper "neutral" which kept the water pump going in neutral. White cover with 7.5 in big letters--right?
This engine was rather different and got a chapter of it's own on the lower unit. Once all the covers are removed, it will start to look like some of the pics. |
Tom
New member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 10:35 am: |
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Yes, white cover with big 7.5 letters and a true "clutch dog" in the lower unit. Am I correct in assuming there's no bendix underneath the engine - just an internal spline on the crank that the driveshaft slides into? Interesting that this style engine is high end - it was definitely not in high end condition when I bought it! Fortunately, most of the necessary parts I've been able to find with the exception of the lower crank seal - don't know that it's bad but thought I'd replace it while I'm in there.
The ignition system was completely shot, requiring the installation of the Evinrude/Johnson coil (since the OEM one is no longer available) and CDI Electronics trigger unit which I think I mentioned in another posting.
It's been unbelievably difficult to find non rusty internal fuel tanks for this style engine, since those tanks have the recoil starter studs mounted at a ~5-degree offset from the standard tanks and are less common. I had to make a conversion plate out of the recoil starter mounting area on the old rusted out tank to achieve this offset.
It seems like a good engine design though, which is why I've been working to bring it back to life. |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 290
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 09:35 pm: |
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This model was like the last steam locomotive- It had everything- then just quit production. That tin can fuel pump, that solid state ignition and that full shift lower unit were as good as Air-cooled ever got. Then they just went away. |
fritz
New member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 10, 2009 - 04:02 pm: |
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im having a problem with the water pump on a 7.5 eska/ sears ive had the lower unit off and the pump opened and every thing looks to be ok i even swaped lower units and still not getting the water too pump what could be causing this your response is more then welcome, now keep in mind i did put this motor together starting with the power head could it be some thing wrong with one of my gaskets coming out of the powerhead itself??????????????????? |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 291
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 10, 2009 - 04:24 pm: |
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Fritz, I saw a post where a guy had to file down the ears of the pump housing to get a good seal.
Also the pump impeller can be put in upside down. The top of the long pump has a ridge which fits to the hole in the top of the pump housing. You might check that.
The ultimate test is with the powerhead off and a drill on the drive shaft (protect the splines) and spin it. You should get water every where.
Last note-- they don't pump in neutral.
If you would like a free book, let me know?? |
fritz
New member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 10, 2009 - 05:34 pm: |
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well mr william_m i do thank u for your help and this site i will try that. and if u do have a book on it i would really appreciate it the numbers on the power head are t64-o7a 7538026 if that helps and do u know the year of this outboard?? send me a email and ill give u my address unless u have it in a file
thank u soo much
fritz |
fritz
New member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, July 11, 2009 - 07:33 pm: |
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well ive done all that u told me too try and still no water flow only at low speed and at yet its only a mist..... the only thing i can think of is buy new gaskets for the reed and uper half of the powerhead and see if that would help is there any other thing u can think of that would cause this problem????? bad housing ect now mind u i even tried too put a long shaft water pump on this and the same thing lol poor me |
Tom
Member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 11:09 am: |
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Willliam, thanks for the info. Two questions. What is the tin can fuel pump you're referring to? Mine has the same fuel pump in the carb that most of the other Eskas seem to have. Second, lower crank seal (Tecumseh #510318) is NLA from every source I've checked (Sears, Brixent, online lawnmower shops). Do you have any leads where one might be sourced from? |
fritz
Member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 01:02 pm: |
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hey tom look on ebay for those seals. there a set of lower unit gaskets for a 7 1/2 eska not sure if that is what ya need |
Tom
Member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 02:51 pm: |
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fritz, thank you for the info. I will check Ebay. Really surprised this seal is NLA, since they were known to fail. |
Peter Meyer
Member
Username: boatbeginer
Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 01:40 pm: |
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I have a eska 7hp 1747-D. My carb bolt broke on the bowl.I got a new one now I put it back the way I thought it went but needle and everything fell out too. I have tried putting it all back and tried starting but its flooding after one or two pulls. Then I have to wait and dry out plug. If any one has a diagram or could tell me how the needle should go or hook up to float that would help. If it seems that I screwed up something else let me know.
Any info is greatly appreciated. |
fritz
Member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 05:02 pm: |
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hey pete your email address isnt working for me too send u a diagram too fix your problem
email me and ill help ya since i have rebuilt my carb not too long ago |
fritz
Member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 05:05 pm: |
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and if your fuel pump diagram is cracked or torn it will flood the motor so take it out and blow into it too see if i is and that diagram should be put in at 45 degrees but it sounds like your pump is shot |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 303
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 01:07 pm: |
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Peter, do you have a copy of the "Book"? If not, let me know. Our WI-Fi was down about 3 days and couldn't get back, but the repairs continue!!!!
About that seal, I think you should try "Bearings inc." or "King bearing" with the timkin number and see if they have a seal for that bearing. Seems I have seen them for auto transmissions that are a skinny steel backed seal for that application. But would cross over.
That fuel pump is a good suspect. The tin can pump was a rare pump which only showed up in the last years of production of the full shift 7.5's and 9.9s. So odds of you having one that has not been swapped out for something else are rare too. |
fritz
Member
Username: fritzdog07
Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 01:40 pm: |
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hey william g moore jr i thank u for the book and your help come too find out that who ever owned this outboard before me changed the water pump housing and they put one from a old clinten on it so there was the problem it was about 1/2 inch too long for the water pump so it wasnt getting the presure it needed too flow but i do thank u for the efforts u made my motor runs like a top now  |
Tom
Member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 05:53 pm: |
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William, thanks for the advice. Mine doesn't have any fuel pump other than the one that's built into the carb. I'll see what I can do about sourcing a seal from one of those sources you suggested. I don't know if my seal is bad, but it's an item I'd like to replace someday since I've been through pretty much the entire engine and lower unit and have refreshed every other seal on the whole outboard motor. |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 319
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 10:26 pm: |
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Tom, if you can find that skinny timken seal let us know as avaliability seems to be a problem. If I remember correctly, there were 2 sizes. One for 5.5 and smaller and one for the 7.5 and up. Both were just a ribbed "O" ring (which was square) with a backer ring and blind snap-ring. |
Tom
Member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 03:43 pm: |
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William, I still haven't found that seal. I'll keep looking though.
My engine is back together - new CDI Electronics ignition module, new OMC style ignition coil, rebuilt carb, all new o-rings and seals on the lower unit and cooling plate under the engine. Almost ready to start it up. This engine seems to have tremendous compression and isn't so easy to pull start. Has anyone here experienced this same thing with the 7.5hp Gamefishers like mine (the ones with the plastic cowling over the engine)? |
william g moore jr
Advanced Member
Username: william_m
Post Number: 457
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 07:10 pm: |
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I found some really hard to turn over because of the assembly oil I put it together with. I started using ATF ford tranny fluid and it helped seat new wrings and let the compression down a bit. Also to seat rings, I'd spin it with a drill motor and no spark plug for about 15 min. They would always start up after that treatment. Their 15 hp they made for wards had a compression release built in the last model of single cylinder full shift air cooled. So guess they noticed the high compression too. |
Tom
Member
Username: tommy_two_stroke
Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 10:27 am: |
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I didn't take the internals of the engine apart at all, so I assume the rings are already seated from when the engine was originally put together. The 3hp ESKA/Sears I have is considerably easier to pull start than the 7.5hp |
