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Kirk Thiel
New member Username: kthiel
Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 10:58 pm: |
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I just came across an old Goodyear 5 HP Model 025-3564A serial 2922012 I believe its from the fifties. I have two questions: 1st on the Name and operating instructions (located between the mount clamps ) it says to mix 1/2 pint (8oz) of NO.30 oil to one gallon of gas.Now by todays mixing standard that is a 16:1 ratio... Is this right? Using current two cycle oil should I stay at 16:1 or should I use some thing else? #2 If you remove the brass nut on the bottom of the bowl stem to expose the taper rod valve shut off. Should there be a spring in there and why? If the gas comes in at the bottom of the stem goes up through the taper vale,out a hole at the bottom of the bowl to the carb, why would you force that taper valve shut. If that is the case you would only get gas to the carb if you run all lean or on prime. can some one explain this to me as I am not familar with this process. Thanks Kirk |
   
william g moore jr
Member Username: william_m
Post Number: 96 Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, June 14, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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With out a picture I can only guess, but here goes- I saw one of those and the spring held the emulsion tube in the carb body. The tapered pin rings no bells, but must be part of the main metering circuit. If it moves -it may be vacuum operated. Check the back of the carb at the flange for a drilling which may supply vacuum/pulse to the needle. I would run quality tcw oil at 24/1 if this engine is watercooled or chainsaw oil if air-cooled. The reason it takes so much oil is it probably has brass bushings for main bearings. If it won't hold a seal at 24/1 then go back to 1/16. Some had no bottom seal and depended on the oil on a long brass bushing for a bottom seal. Even air cooled had a water supply -with few exceptions- one was a heavy cast iron crankcase which just took the heat, and several had a hooked tube just above the prop and it took prop wash. |
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