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Need help with Sea King

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joe B
New member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I just aquired a boat with a Sea King 20.
I can't seem to find a model number others are looking for.

Here's the info I have on it.:
Scratched into the paint:
MN0620 000 8647

Is there a certain place they stamp the numbers?


On the bracket that mounts to the transom
145532
AICOA

Bracket that mounts the engine bracket to the transom bracket.
145072-1

Bracket the mounts engine to bracket.
183940-1

Then the scratched in number that is listed 2 times.
Dont know if it will help, but is has a:
Tillotson Carb
# MD126A
And the logo on the cowl had Sea King 20 and a M with W But they are stacked on top of each other.

Any help you can give would be great.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 04:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You may have better luck looking for parts if you search "Chrysler 20 hp" depending what you are looking for.
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BuzzStPoint
New member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I'm not sure what to look for.

I'm in the process for checking for spark to see if the motor will even try to run.
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BuzzStPoint
New member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Sunday, May 31, 2009 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I think I may need ignition parts, Recoil. So far.

I pulled the plugs and did the screwdriver to the wire and block, Couldn't get spark but, we couldn't hold the driver steady.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 14
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

be careful with that plastic gear the starter runs. It and the internal return spring are very hard to find. Most of those motors are started with a rope with a note in it as the starters are shot. Those points were real good, and you could clean them with a points file about 3 times before they would burn up to quickly. Set to .020 and clean with a piece of paper trapped between the points to get the last of the residue off them. Those had pretty good coils and condensers, but the bottom of the big wire to the plugs liked to wear off where it rubs on the top of the power head- check for sparks there. (at night).

I used to eliminate the fuel connector and put the tank line directly to the engines fuel pump. That way you never hooked up the fuel line backward.(a common error with that set up).
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BuzzStPoint
Member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The ignition parts look real good, but I may be testing for spark wrong. So I'll have to get a spark tester.
As for the recoil. I removed it and cleaned it up and it looks real good. All the internals seems to be fine. It's just the Big plastic gear that engages the flywheel has a crack, and doesn't seem to grab the flywheel unless you manually push it up.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 15
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I made a tester from an old battery clip off a battery charger a hose clamp and spark plug. Just spread the electrode out enough so you can see it. Also chrysler ignition would snap pretty good when you just turned the flywheel by hand. The plastic gear had ramps built into them and took a cross pin that made it jump up. Fix the crack with high end super glue from a hobby store. You probably not be able to get a replacement as there were 3 models of that gear. You would have the earliest one. The recoil spring was inside the "pole" it all road on and it wound backward by screwing a 1/4 20 bolt with a lock nut on it to grip the inner and wind them counter clockwise. You then pierced the starter gear and top of the inner with a pin and removed the tool and locked it down with another shorter 1/4-20.
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BuzzStPoint
Member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

OK,, I see..

Yes I had the whole recoil out and it looks like all other parts are there and in great shape. The starter gear is cracked.
I have some "Plastic Weld" epoxy I can try using.
The crack is a little difficult to explain. Where the cross pin that holds the starter gear on, if you follow the angled grove to the bottom of the gear, right where it bottoms out it's cracked there. So When you engauge the starter gear with the flywheel, it binds up and the pin is under the plastic.

As for the spark tester. Thats a great Idea. I have old plus laying around and I'm sure I can find a spring type clip in the garage somewhere.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 16
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sounds like your cross pin is to short to engage the ramps on the starter gear.
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BuzzStPoint
Member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I dont think so..
On the one side, where the pin goes under the plastic gear, There's about a 1/4 inch crack that will bow the plastic out allowing the pin to go under.

Is there another way of starting the engine on a stand with out the recoil?
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 17
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Monday, June 01, 2009 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sounds like the pin might be put in wrong, It goes in ramped slot of the gear, not under the gear. The gear has a slot on it's bottom to hold a sliding friction arm that makes the gear go up the ramp.

When the starter fails for good you can tie a knot in the end of the rope and wrap it round the pulley on top of the flywheel. (if it's still there.)Don't forget to put the lower in a bucket of water or that water pump will last about 15 seconds dry.
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BuzzStPoint
Member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

After cleaning the points, setting them correctly, I got Spark in one cylinder. Took the whole ignigtion plate off cleaned with Mineral Spirits and air compressed dry. Tightened the plate the ignition sits and and replaced. This time I got spark in both cylinders.

Filled a garbage can with water, primed the fuel and pulled the choke. About 5 minutes of pulling and it fired up.. Once it was running it would start in one pull. Thats with old gas and plugs.

I had to wrap the starter cord around the tiny pulley on the flywheel. (Thanks for that tip.)

As for the starter gear. The pin is flush with the sides of the gear. I took some Plastic Weld epoxy and filled the cracks of the gear and let sit over night. Sanded today to get a smooth glide.

I do have one question. I know the gear is suppose to shoot up when you pull. But My question is how is it held inplace to move upward? Does anyone have a diagram of the recoil system?
You can see my type of startign recoil here:
http://gallery.computervitals.com/main.php?cmd=imageview&var1=Sea+King%2FPICT114 6.jpg

But I'm wondering if there is a spring or a catch missing somewhere.
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 30
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

This might double post as I lost the first one- but thats a great photo- Just push the starter gear up and there should be 2 cast pins behind it. That is the slot the arm off the friction clutch rides in. The bottom of the gear has a groove. The friction clutch snaps into this groove and the arm runs in between the two pins. The effect is to stop the gear till it engages the flywheel -then slip while the gear drives the flywheel.
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BuzzStPoint
Member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yeah the metal "clutch" that is wrapped around starting sprocket, I had to take a large pliers and squeeze the ring down a size or two. Then I snapped it back onto the drive socket and re-assembled. It seems to work like it should.

Only thing i need now is, plugs, fresh gas and registration. :-)
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william g moore jr
Member
Username: william_m

Post Number: 31
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

EEEhaaa!! love it when a plan comes together!!!
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BuzzStPoint
Member
Username: buzzstpoint

Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2009
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 10:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I thank you.. I may actually get it out this weekend for a test.

You've been a real great help!!
Not too worry.. I'm sure I'll have more questions..

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