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| 3.5 hp gamfisher transom mount |
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Message |
    
Joe Morgan
Member
Username: jojo663
Post Number: 23
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, April 11, 2009 - 10:14 pm: | 
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I broke the transom mount on my 1968 3.5 hp gamefisher model 217-599. anybody know where I may find a used one, CHEAP!! maybe someone with a old salvage motor or something, I'm pretty broke right now so I need one I can afford. this got broke in an act of dumd--s on my part. I guess it's true s--t happens. and any opinions about what may be wrong with motor,
Motor has been starting on first or second pull and running great in test tank. I went fishing yesterday. I put the boat in the water and began a pre-crank before getting adrift, The motor did not want to start, it acted like it was getting no fuel. I removed plug and put in a little pre-mix fuel and it started but did not want to power up to full throttle as it warmed up it went to full but acted sluggish and after awhile gas begain to dribble from the little hole on the side of carb the motor would start up ok after the first start but continued to run sluggish as described I have done a carb cleaning and kit before going out like I said it has been running great in the test tank at home.WTH is going on with it?? any ideas?? also primer bulb will not get hard it remains squishy fuel lines are new but not the bulb maybe a bad check valve there in bulb???????? |
Bob Setzer
Member
Username: eskaguy30525
Post Number: 22
Registered: 12-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 09:18 pm: |
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Hi Joe, I have several dozen eska / gamefisher / etc outboards and i'm sure i have anything you need, i can get you the transom mount for around $20 plus shipping, If interested, and if possible a picture of your's would confirm the style etc, Thank's... Bob |
Joe Morgan
Member
Username: jojo663
Post Number: 24
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 09:41 pm: |
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Thanks bob,
I'll have to wait until my moneys right to get it. what do you mean by the style?? It has a single bolt that runs though it to hold it to the motor and has the two screw downs to attach to the boat, the two screw downs are what I broke on mine, I still can't believe I did it, It was really dumb. as you know the mount does not have a lock to keep it raised up. when I got back from fishing I was backing my boat in the driveway with has a high spot at the curb the motor was down and, Well you can guess the rest. next time I'll just remove the motor from the boat first. do you mayby have an idea about what may be wrong with the way it's running?? like I said in the post it's been running fine in the test tank at home. I cranked it the day before I carried it out, it ran great |
Bob Setzer
Member
Username: eskaguy30525
Post Number: 24
Registered: 12-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 10:07 pm: |
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You rebuilt the carb, so, In my oppinion it sounds like it's flooding (fuel coming out of the hole) This can be fixed very easily IF.. the cause of it is the float adjustment, Pull the bowl and carfully hold the carb up-right, push the float up and down and determine the position of it when it appears the needle is bottomed out (the point where the fuel supply is cut off) the float should appear close to level with the carb... If it goes further up you may need to adjust that tab that the needle spring hang's on.. keep me posted, Thank's... Bob |
Joe Morgan
Member
Username: jojo663
Post Number: 25
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2009 - 10:42 pm: |
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Bob the float is very close to level with the carb body, yeah I agree it sounds like it's flooding with the gas coming out the hole. the motor sounds like it has a heavy load on it and is working hard to push the boat, a couple of times it tryed to die and I quickly pulled the choke out and eased it back in and saved the motor from dieing but it continued to act bogged down and would not come up to normal high speed rpm's. I worked the idle screw on the bottm of the carb in both directions to the right till it began to sputter then back to the left till it began fallng off then back between the two positions until i got the max rpm's I could get from it. also moved to top idle screw which is labeled (richer - leaner) the same as above noted. as I said the primer bulb will not get hard, it remains squishy like maybe it is pushing fuel both ways i.e. to motor-to tank is this normal or should the bulb get hard?? when I first cranked after priming at the plug I had to run it on about 1/4 to 1/2 choke till the motor warmed up. unually i choke pull unchoke pull to start and have very little problem with that somtimes it takes three or four pulls when cold then one or two everytime after that |
Joe Morgan
Member
Username: jojo663
Post Number: 26
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, April 16, 2009 - 11:44 pm: |
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Bob about the transom mount, It looks like this is a two piece thing. on the sears parts breakdown it is item # 59 part # 26006 LH mounting bracket and item # 60 part # 26007 RH mounting bracket for my model 21759900 1968 gamefisher do you have a weight for this so I can figure shipping and how do you want to ship i.e. ups, fedx, priority mail |
Mike Griffiths
New member
Username: 166oldboat
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Friday, May 22, 2009 - 11:38 pm: |
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i'm despirately searching for some eska gamefisher parts...i need a lower unit mine is seized, or if someone knows how to free it....model 217-585280.....that's the most important thing i need a few other too |
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