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390 ci ford engine originally marine...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Ford Interceptor » 390 ci ford engine originally marine application. « Previous Next »

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dave sarlund
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2006 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

originally installed in my 1965 century resorter and went bad,
Replaced with 390 automotive long block, installed cam from old engine and intake manifold. Leaks water in valve train now. Notice water ports on rear of heads are open, whicle the intake water ports on the rear are cast shut.

Am I missingf something here as to wjy are they shut.????????????

Please help

dsarlund@localnet.com
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seaman
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The old engine was most likely a FT truck engine and the new one is an FE automobile engine. The intake and heads are different between the two, while most everything else matches. while you had the cam out, did the old one have wider bearing journals? This is typical of the FT engine. See if you can find a new intake for the FE heads.
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Dave Sarlund
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 08:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Mr. Seaman:

Thank you very much for the response to my 390 Interceptor problem. The bearing journals were not mentioned to me when the dealer installed the cam from the previous marine application. So I don't know.
I had the heads surfaced by Napa last yeat and that didn't correct the water problem.
Now Napa suggests I leave out the corks gaskets on each end of the intake, cover it with marine sealer and re-install the manifold. I'm quite concerned whether this will do anything or not. The machinist says it will. I'll try it. Just purchased some intake gaskets from Napa which are a marine application??????????Who knows anymore????.

I'll take all the advice from the experienced people at this board over all the dealer experts.

Anymore help is sure appreciated.

Dave Sarlund
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seaman
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Alot of folks don't use the cork strips and just use a sealant. When I first read the post I thought you were getting lots of H2O into the heads, but it seems like it is a small amount. The heads have the water passages in both ends since either head can be on the right or left hand side of the engine. The intake blocks off the rear ports to make the water flow forward through the head and then into the intake. If the intake is badly pitted, use some JB weld or other epoxy filler to fill them. Sand smooth, and use at least 1 qt of acetone cleaning every gasket surface. It is never too clean!

Now, if you actually have coolant, make sure its not condensation, under the valve covers, ie. in the valve train, then it could be either a leaking intake or most likely a cracked head. I'm don't think the boys at NAPA are the machine shop to be working with. Find a real machine shop to work with. If you have coolant in the oil and not just in the valve train, then the problem could be in the block also. Go to the bookstore and pick up a couple of books on rebuilding the big block Ford for $20, it will be money well spent. Good luck.
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Dave Sarlund
Visitor
Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Mr. Seaman: 390 Interceptor

The water is real. After changine the intake gaskets after having the heads magged and milled, the water problem remains the same.

I ran it here in my driveway connected to a garden hose, and after 10 min. the oil was partially white or cream colored.

I did caulk the rear ports on the intake but no difference.

This engine has done this from day one after purchasing it long block style with the old intake.

I will try again cleaning the ports on the intake and heads, sealant instead of cork. Next I will look for a truck intake. Wish I knew abaout the wide cam bearings. Will try some engine numbers and intake numbers. The number on the intake now is 4gb c5ae9425c.

Thanks Dave Sarlund
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seaman
Visitor
Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The C5AE intake is an FE automotive intake, look at your heads and check them. As long as the intake gaskets match properly, you shouldn't be getting any water in the oil at the intake interface. I think it is safe the discount this as the source as long as the gaskets match. Since you have had the heads off and inspected after this problem arose, the head gasket possiblity is also eliminated.

Does this engine have a raw water oil cooler?

Look real closely at the intake, it may be cracked or corroded through. These can easily be pressure tested with a couple of blanking plates.
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dogsharks38
Member
Username: dogsharks38

Post Number: 14
Registered: 12-2005
Posted on Friday, May 12, 2006 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I would not suggest for a minute that the 390 was a truck or automotive version. What I would suggest is the "new" 390 is a hydraulic motor and the Century Interceptor was a solid lifter version. I would check that, to be sure you don't have a real problem with oiling after you do finally resolve the issue. I'm wondering if you have a crack in the block somewhere, that is admitting water into the oiling system, and not just a problem sealing at the heads.

The FE series makes a GREAT boat motor, I'm running two now and they're very strong.

regards, P
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Bill Hosking
New member
Username: seahorse848

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2006
Posted on Monday, August 21, 2006 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a 1957 Century Coronado with an Interceptor 312 and the Dearbomatic transmission. I’ve put just about all the effort I care to into the Dearbo and have rounded up everything I think I need to convert it to a Velvet Drive. I have a lot of questions I could use some help on. First, the engine presently sits level with the gear case having a 10-degree slant. Do I need to worry about the float settings in the side draft carburetors when I tilt the engine 10 degrees? The prop turns clockwise, but the Dearbo gear case reverses it, so it must be a left hand rotation engine (you would think I would know but I never paid any attention to it and the boat is up north and I’m not). That would mean I would be reversing the drive direction with the Velvet Drive. I will obviously need a new prop, but it seems I will be reversing the torque from the prop. What will the change do to the handling characteristics of the boat? If this is a problem, how big a job is it to convert the engine to right hand rotation.

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