| Author |
Message |
    
Tim Hall
New member
Username: 61resorter
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2007 - 10:39 am: | 
|
I've installed a Pertronics electronic ignition on my 327. Has anyone else and, if so, what gap are you running your plugs at. Factory spec is .025. I was told to increase the gap to accomodate the increased energy from the new ignition. Anyone have any experience? I'm running .030 now and it runs OK. Plugs look good. I'm just curious. |
Steve Evans
New member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 09:10 am: |
|
Tim,
I also have a 327. I also want to do an electronic ignition. Where did you buy it and what part number did you use.
Do you have the original vacuum advance distributer? |
Patrick M. Wichman
Member
Username: pwichman
Post Number: 10
Registered: 10-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 12:09 pm: |
|
Tim and Steve,
If your eng. s/n# prefix is letter P and prior the gap is .035. If its letter P and later the gap is .025. Spark plug should be a champion RJ6C. My dist. is a YC332SP no vaccume adv. The elec. ign. is a pertronics ML187A. You can find it at www.carshopinc.com the cheapest 97.99$ The cap is a MAL-4001 and rotor is a MAL-4215C. You can find these the cheapest at www.centuryperformance.com The install of the ign. is a snap. Hope this helps you guys.If you have any further ?s you can talk to Paul at pertronics at 1 800 827 3758.....Pat |
Tim Hall
New member
Username: 61resorter
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 02:01 pm: |
|
Steve, Pat's information is good. I didn't know to call Pertronic directly. That is a good source. I have an Autolite distributor with vacuum advance. The Dist. tag reads IBP 4105A. The vacuum advance is removed during ignition installation. I bought my kit from RetroRockets. Find them at www.vintageperformance.com. I bought their # 91581 Ignitor II along with the Flame Thrower II coil. I had a friend install it who had prior experience and he had to do minor modification to the distributor to fit the base plate. He thought I may have bought the wrong kit. That said it was not difficult. Good Luck. Let me know how you make out or if you need anything else. |
Steve Evans
New member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 02:32 pm: |
|
Thanks Tim and Pat for the info. I am tweaking the last few hiccups out of the motor and I think the electronic ignition will really help.
If the vacuum advance is removed, does the electronic ignition have advance curves built into the unit? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 3546
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 06:04 pm: |
|
Try 0.035 inches.
JEff |
Tim Hall
New member
Username: 61resorter
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 06:25 pm: |
|
Yup, The advance curve is built into it. My son and I are removing the last few "hiccups" as well. You will find My son Mike's post regarding our adventure under "HELP". |
Steve Evans
Member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 10:31 pm: |
|
I also have the autolite 1BP-4105A distributor. I'll use the same parts you ordered, Tim.
It really helps knowing someone else fitted one of these kits to the same motor I have.
Tim, are you using different plugs with the Pertronix? Did you notice any performance difference? |
Tim Hall
Member
Username: 61resorter
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 - 01:59 pm: |
|
Steve, I put NGK's in. I've always liked them. The Champions are fine. Just my preference. We just finished breaking this motor in. My friend came and adjusted the valves to spec this past weekend. I'm taking it out tomorrow to see how it runs. I may gap to .035 like Pat said. That is the gap my friend, who installed the ignition, suggested. What I noticed most is how smooth the idle is after the kit was installed. It was very nice before. Now with the valves adjusted it sounds like a cat purring. |
Steve Evans
Member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 - 09:40 pm: |
|
Speaking of timing, I went to look for a timing mark on the pully off the crankshaft and there wasn't any. Is there a timing hole to shoot the light into to time the motor?
I ordered the manual and hopefully it will answer some of these questions, but I'd like to check the timing tomorrow and the manual will not be here in time. |
Tim Hall
Member
Username: 61resorter
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2007 - 09:08 am: |
|
Steve, The timing marks are on the flywheel. If yours is flywheel aft there will be an access hole in the bellhousing. Flywheel forward the flywheel is exposed. |
Steve Evans
Member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 02:58 pm: |
|
Guys, I just talked to Pertronix. They said that there is an adaptive dwell algorithm but not an advance curve. They said the vacuum or mechanical advance mechanism must be left in place.
Did Gray use an mechanical advance on the reverse rotation, flywheel aft motors. I've been told that, due to the nature of how a marine motor is used, mechanical advance distributors are preferred over vacuum actuated advanced distributors. I'd like to find one before doing the conversion. |
Tim Hall
Member
Username: 61resorter
Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 08:49 pm: |
|
Steve, Since day one my boat(motor) has not run "sweet" at higher RPM's I've chased vacuum leaks, jets & metering rods, checked the timing, considered an elec. fuel pump & pulled my hair out. When I had the Pertronic kit installed my "Guru" told me we didn't need the vacuum advance anymore. He removed it. I think you just solved my problem. Back on it goes.Thanks!!!
Tim |
Steve Evans
Member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 09:04 pm: |
|
Glad to help. Even more glad I didn't leap without looking further.
Gray Marine is trying to piece together a mechanical advance conversion kit. I'll let you know how it goes. |
Steve Evans
Member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 09:07 am: |
|
Tim,
I have more information regarding the vacuum advance. You may want to check out this thread where I'm get a lot of help with my Correct Craft.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7580&PN=1&TPN=1
I'm beginning to think your guru might have been right after all. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 3701
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Friday, July 20, 2007 - 12:11 pm: |
|
Gotta Sky wrote: "Boats don't really cruise, they beat the water into submission. Loads basically increases with speed and vacuum decreases; No use for vacuum advance. "
Now, there's a guy who knows his stuff!
Jeff |
Steve Evans
Member
Username: raindog
Post Number: 9
Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 04:42 pm: |
|
At the end of the season last year, I couldn't get the Gray 327 to run well at idle after installing the Pertronix ignition. I eventually found that the generator won't put out hardly any voltage until 1500 RPM, which is where the engine starts to run well. I measured the voltage at the coil at idle and I only had 11.6 VDC.
Will the EI operate poorly and cause the engine to run rough as well?
Will a generator rebuild increase output at low RPM?
Could this be a regulator issue?
Thanks,
Steve |
Buehler Bobby
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 04:23 pm: |
|
Hello again everyone. I want to install an electronic ignition as well. My distributor is a prestolite # IBP-4112-A , can anyone tell me what the Pertronics part# is ? This is my ALL ORIGINAL Un-Molested 1971 Buehler "Turbocraft" Thirty-Five Jet. Thanks again, BOB |
