| Author |
Message |
    
Cal Martell
New member
Username: cal
Post Number: 4
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Friday, December 09, 2005 - 09:32 pm: | 
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Just purchased a 1963 Century Sabre from eBay and it has a Graymarine fireball 225 engine. I understand this is a 327 cid, is it a GM product? Is it like the 327 Chevy? Are parts available? The engine hasn't been run for several years but was in good condition during its' last use. Any help/advise would be appreciated.
Thanks |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1879
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2005 - 12:21 pm: |
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The year is about right for it to be a Chevy. Can you send us a photo?
Jeff |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 624
Registered: 03-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2005 - 12:23 pm: |
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Cal,
There is a V8-255 and a V8C-255. The V8C-255 is flywheel forward.
- 327cid
- Weight direct: 900 lbs
- Weight w/ red. gear: 950 lbs
- 9.5:1 compression ratio
- 255hp at 4400rpm
We offer manuals for the Fireball V8s.
For parts you could try Duby Marine in NY at 716-694-0922. |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 626
Registered: 03-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2005 - 11:17 am: |
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Cal,
I think those engines were AMC engines. That one is the same as the AMC Rambler V8 engine.
We have a Gray Marine discussion category on the OldMarineEngine.com site too... you might want to read through some of the posting there also. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2005 - 05:23 pm: |
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Thank you all for the info. I think it is the AMC engine. I will order manuals for the motor and also for the velvet drive.
Cal |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2005 - 07:27 pm: |
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Took the doghouse off. The motor is a V8C, 225hp. The flywheel is in front. The hour meter says 399. The motor/boat has been laid up for quite a few years but the previous owner said it ran good before the layup. Never pulled the dipstick yet. This boat will be a labor of love.
Cal
Cal |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 629
Registered: 03-2001
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 08:44 am: |
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Sounds like a great project. Keep us posted on your progress.
Do you have a photo or a link to the ebay photos? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1881
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 10:04 am: |
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Plese post a photo! I'm dying to see what it looks like.
Thanks,
Jeff |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 7
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 06:04 pm: |
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Here is the link to the eBay site. I don't know how they work after the sale has been completed.
ebay ad link
This boat seems to be in beautiful condition except for the front seats which are weathered. I surveyed the entire hull, keel (one small splintered chip twords the bow area), transom, ribs, gussets, and thru-hull fittings and have not found any dry rot. Other than some missing ss screws all the chrome is there. I do have some decisions to make though, I want to put in a fuel/water separator, should I change out the copper fuel lines and go with newer flex fuel lines? I know I will need to have the alt, voltage regulator, water pump, dist, points, plugs, flush the pan, flush the gas tank, rewire the whole shebang etc. but what's a retired guy to do during the winter in Green Bay.
Here are pics of the motor. I am also ordering a manual from your link today.
Will keep you posted on progress. So far I have taken over 100 pics of all the survey so I know how to put things back together 
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 06:11 pm: |
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One other question, what's and "operators" manual? I want the meat and potatoes of the engine, not just how to change the oil and plugs. If this is an AMC engine I already have the tech manual stuff, I save all the old service manuals I ever had.
Thanks again.
Cal |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 630
Registered: 03-2001
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 06:29 pm: |
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Cal,
The boat looks great. I will repost some of the photos here. The ebay photos will become unavaliable on ebays site soon.
The operators manual is basic operating, troubleshooting, basic maintenenace, etc. You will be better off with the service/technical manual.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 9
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 07:57 pm: |
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You guys are great, better photos than I had. I've been buying boats from the Rawhide boys ranch for close to 15 years now, about 2 or 3 a year, fix up resale Alum, glass, etc but this is my first woodie "project" for myself. Is there a better way to get pics on this board. Each time I tried to send a better (bigger file) pic I get an error message.
Thanks again
cal |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 10
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 06:51 am: |
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Also could you tell me exactly which manual I need to order? I looked at the site you linked and started getting somewhat confused. I need one that has specs for vac advance, dwell, timeing, valve lash, fuel delivery, etc. My old manuals only go back to 1970, and a 327 cid AMC is not in there.
thanks. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1887
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 08:00 am: |
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Great looking rig! Yours could be the star of the show in the restored boats shows we have here on the Chessie!
Jeff |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 632
Registered: 03-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 09:32 am: |
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Cal,
You should get the one titled:
Fireball V-8 250 and 327 cid engines Technical Manual
It has all the data and specs for overhaul, tune-up, maintenance, etc. It is a very complete manual. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 11
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 08:00 pm: |
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Just ordered the tech manual you suggested. Thanks. There are going to be a ton of questions on this forum during the refurbish, alot of them will be simple for you but if I don't know or am not sure of I'm gunna ask.
Time to step back now and smell the rose (dirty bilge water ) Have a good holiday season all of you.
Cal |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1891
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 08:35 am: |
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Take plenty of photos, Cal, both for you (so you'll know where everything goes) and for us nosey folks out here!
Jeff
PS: The Hudson Hornet also used that motor, late in its life. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 12
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2005 - 06:47 pm: |
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Turned the engine over this afternoon, good news is that it turned over, bad news is that there was a clanking sound on every revolution. Did not look into the noise whether it was external or internal, sounded like something hitting the pan. Also there was rust on three of the plugs, I suspect that this is from sitting for so long with the exhaust/intake valves partially opened. I gave each cyl a good dose of oil before I turned it over (sans plugs) just to lube the walls. The neutral switch does work! I would like to fire it up before pulling it from the hull for a complete go over. Waiting for the manual to arrive.
The entire boat is gutted out and I hi-pressured the bulkheads and bilge with a rotary gun, now I will let it sit over the holidays to dry out. Did find some rot in some hidden corners but so far I believe nothing that cannot be fixed with the modern epoxys. Any opions on this type of repair?
Cal |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 635
Registered: 03-2001
| | Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 06:29 pm: |
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Cal,
The post office says the engine manual was delivered today, 12/19.
Hope it helps! |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 13
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 09:56 pm: |
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Arrived on time and in good condition today. Glad you recommended the manual. I spent an hour just paging through and did not find anything that I didn't understand or havn't done before. I'll do a compression check during the week and maybe get a pop out of it. Thanks for all the advice and "exras" Have a good holiday season and a Merry Christmas to you all.
Cal |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 14
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 12:38 pm: |
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Just did a compression check on the Fireball. Real goofy readings, so goofy that I did the whole operation twice and came up with the same readings. No1-150, 2-148, 3-35, 4-137, 5-85, 6-90, 7-45, 8-85. Now I suspect the rings are not as bad as the tests would indicate, this was a wet test with the throttle half open. My other guess would be rusted valvea/seats since the really low readings were the same cylinders that had rust on the spark plugs. Either way I will be pulling the heads off this spring after I pull the engine. I've been in contact with the former owner and he stated that the engine was run in 2004 but the transmission slipped in reverse.
The clanking that I mentioned in a previous post was caused by No 2 cylinder tappet sticking, the pushrod would slam on top of it, after I put oil down the rod hole and a few revolutions the noise stopped. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1924
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 07:56 am: |
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Where do you live? I'd sure like to come by a take a look at this unique engine! I'd even help.
Jeff |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 15
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 10:22 pm: |
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"The frozen tundra" Eight miles north of Green Bay, Wi, Yeah, da Packers ;(
This is an ongoing project but you guys are sure welcome to chime in anytime. I do not have a formal shop, just my garage and alot of room and tools but only an 8' ceiling. I'll have to pull the boat to a friends construction workshop and pull the engine with a heavy duty Michigan loader, put the engine on a smaller trailer and then haul it back home for the winter. Such is the curse of a shade tree mech. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 16
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2006 - 08:13 pm: |
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Started removing the wiring from the engine, took lots of pictures and documentation. Is there some reason why the wires are pigtails? Maybe a one size fits all approach by Century. I would like to clean up the harness when I re-wire. Also an aquaintance suggested that when I have the valves ground I should have hardened seats put on the exhaust side because of the no lead gas thing. Any thoughts?
Cal
 |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1966
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Friday, January 06, 2006 - 06:43 pm: |
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Cal:
From what I've read, damage to non-hardened seats was greatly exaggerated. Installing seats would be horrendously expensive, so if you're worried, see if you can find some lead additive stuff and dump it in.
Jeff
PS: Love that engine of yours! |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 17
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 09:33 am: |
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No problem with the additive. I talked with a couple mechs and there was a split decision on the seats. Also got the name of a local speed shop that they all recomeded for the valve job, all computer equip.
I'll be pulling the heads while the engine is still in the boat. Have to take some of the weight off so I don't stress my overhead too much. I'm only working with an 8' ceiling so I'll be putting slings under the engine vs the lifting eyes to get the clearance I need for the chainfall.
Again thanks for the tip.
Gheeesh I love this.
Cal |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1974
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, January 09, 2006 - 07:22 am: |
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Good for you, Cal! (Great attitude.) Please send us more photos as you get that jewel apart.
Jeff |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 18
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 05:51 pm: |
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Pulled the heads today,just as I suspected from the compression readings, rusty valves in five of the eight. Lots of carbon buildup on the cylinders also, the walls look good. Glad I soaked them with oil before turning it over several weeks ago. There was one bent pushrod on the exhaust side of No 8, looking at the condition of the valve I would say it was that way for quite awhile. Other than those issues things look fairly good overall. It'll be awhile before I get the valves ground so don't hold your breath on that part. I will continue to do the prelims for pulling the engine now that a few hundred pounds are removed.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 19
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 08:15 pm: |
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Is it possible to straighten the bent rod? This is a solid rod, no oil passage. The picture makes the rod look rusty but it is not. Can the shop that does the valve job straighten the rod?
Thanks.
Cal |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 1976
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 09:20 pm: |
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Better toss it out. It bent once, right?
Jeff |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 20
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 11:58 am: |
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Ok on the toss out. I see on the old marine engine discussion board that someone else is interested in the workings of a 225C engine. I will take the address down for parts.
Cal |
Todd DeVoogd
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 08:45 pm: |
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I recently purchased an old Lyman with twin gray marine 220'S engines in it, I also purchased the owners manual for the engines and a service manual from Duby Marine. They are very helpfull. They also tell you Gray Marine was a division of Continental Engines, after some research I also found that Continental used AMC blocks. I will be rebuilding one engine this winter, I have found one sight that sells complete rebuild kits for AMC blocks, but I still need to verify that the marine version is the same as an automotive version. Here is the link to this engine rebuild kit site
http://www.kanter.com/ I hope this is some help |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 21
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2006 - 05:41 pm: |
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Thank you for the information. I have a complete graymarine fireball v-8 service parts list. This book contains every part number for every fireball v-8 that was produced by Graymarine. (thank you Andrew) I have found the pushrods I need and thanks to the manual the 225's are slightly different than the other 5 fireball
v-8's. I could have wound up getting the wrong ones and wondering why the engine just couldn't be tuned right. Yes it is an AMC block, whether the marine version is different is always a debate.
If you run into any problems let me know and I will do the same. I do not intend a complete tear-down but just a complete cleaning, ie flushing out the oil galleys, pulling the pans, and washing all the internals. There is a considerable buildup of oil deposits on the valvetrain, rods etc so I suspect the crank and oil pump are no better. I will be ordering new gaskets for the exhaust, intake manifolds, probably a rebuild of the carbs, waterpump, alternator, and a checkup of the voltage reg. Starter is good. I will put in a whole new wiringharness because it has been my experiance working on marine engines (IOs)that no matter how good the wire looks on the outside they always seem to rot somewhere along the line where the insulation has been compromised or cracked.
Cal |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 22
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 11:46 pm: |
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Pulled the engine. Tight quarters as you can see. This is the first engine I have ever seen with a cast iron oil pan.
Now it will stay on the cart until I have time to flush it and clean it up.
 |
george crolick
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 04:52 pm: |
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I have a gray marine fireball model six-150 with engine number D5743 out of a Century Seamaid. Anyone know when built? are replacement parts available? How do I decide-should it be -put back together, rebuilt, or remanufactured ? Suggestions on best manuals to buy ? Thanks. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 23
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, March 02, 2006 - 07:57 pm: |
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George, It's been awhile since I did anything with my engine that's why the posting has slowed. I've been doing more work on the hull.
To answer your questions I would suggest you start a new thread on this forum and ask away. The two persons who will give you honest answers are "fastjeff" and Andrew the wizard of this forum. I purchased the tech/service manuals right on line here through the Marinengine store and they are wonderfully helpfull. Yes most parts can be purchased online. Just put in a search (google or someother) and type in your graymarine model six-150. Something will show up.
Hope this helps. Good luck on your project.
Cal |
birdstone
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 11:49 am: |
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George and Cal,
First, George your engine was built in either 1946 through 1949.
Second, Cal I have some parts for Graymarine V8's. If you post a list I might be able to help you with some of the parts.
I don't get on the internet every day but I do look from time to time.
Hector |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 30
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 06:42 pm: |
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Hector. Been a long time since I've visited this msg but good to hear from you. I do need a pushrod for this engine. If you could help me out it would be appreciated.
Cal - coppercaper@aol.com |
REC
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 07:54 pm: |
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Cal, I have the exact same engine in a 1963 17' Century Resorter I just bought. I am hoping to drop it in the water this weekend after 2 months of quick fixes. If it rides to my liking I plan to restore the entire boat. I am concered about the carb being a fire hazard, have you heard anything about this? |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 32
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 09:00 pm: |
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I have heard that there was a problem with fuel leaking on this design of carbs. I suspect that it is either from a bad float needle valve or dried gaskets on the bowl. I understand that there is a fix that sets the carb setup on an "even with the ride" rather than even with the engine. This would lead me to believe that the fuel would leak from the aft carb only. There is a Yahoo chat room that deals only with Century boats that you might be interested in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/centurywoodenboats/
A good group of people who are Century owners and share all their experiences and helpful info. There might be a better answer to your hazard question there. You have to join the group but it is well worth it.
I am doing just the opposite of you since I never got the engine running due to the rusted valves as you can see in the pics. This winter I plan to have the heads/valves reground by a local machine shop. I was assured by the previous owner that the engine did run good.(wink wink riiiigghhht) Even though one of the valve stems was bent pretty good. I also purchased the service manual for this engine from this website and it is the heads up winner for what you would want to know.
Right now I am in the process of replanking the bottom after replacing seven bottom frames and the entire transom/frame with new white oak and African mahogany. Hopefully I will get the boat reflipped before winter sets in here in the frozen tundra (Green Bay.Wi) so I can get the engine in and start the fun stuff next spring.
Good luck on your project and I hope the ride is to your satisfaction. Let me know. I still havn't gotten my valve stem though but there are lots of places to get the parts thanks to the Yahoo chat room.
Cal |
portland river rat
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 02:26 pm: |
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I have a 1965 Tollycraft with a 225 fireball I'll download some pics and tell how this goes |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 34
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 09:03 am: |
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Been awhile since I posted on the engine progress. The summer was taken up with hull restoration. I just took the heads of the Fireball 225 to a local speed shop to have them cleaned up and ground. The guy said they will put them in the "oven" whatever that is then they will be magnafluxed, inspected, planed, and then will let me know if there is any serious damage. He said they are probably in good condition since there are less than 400 hours on the original engine. He said these engines die mostly from neglect rather than abuse. Improper storage etc. He will also make a new pushrod to replace the one that is bent, not a problem...he builds racing engines as a business so I feel pretty safe with him. I will start posting pics again of my teardown, cleanup and inspection of the block.
Cal |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 35
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, October 23, 2006 - 10:37 pm: |
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Good news, bad news on the heads/valves. The heads came through the oven and magnaflux with flying colors. The valves were in bad shape, some were bent, and others pitted from the rust that accumlated over the years of sitting with wide open exhaust pipes . Word to the wise, if you put your baby away for the cold weather oil 'er up and plug the pipes. New valves...intake, $6 each. Exhaust $8 each. Still for less than $500 I will have two brand new heads. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 36
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Friday, November 03, 2006 - 10:42 pm: |
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Here are pics of the heads from the Fireball 225C after they came back from the speedshop. New valves et al. The pushrods come in a box of four so now I have three extra ($2.00 each) Total cost for new heads, valves, planning, rods complete. $464.40. They are now soaked with clean oil and on the shelf waiting while the rest of the block gets a going over.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 44
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 09:39 pm: |
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Pics of the oil and transmission coolers on the engine and after cleaning and repair. Also the fuel pump tested and cleaned. I am going to leave the coolers and fuel pump in their original colors with a coat of gloss laquer rather than the red paint. Makes it look cleaner and easier on the eye.    |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 49
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 08:34 pm: |
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Working on cleaning up the external parts. So far the oil and transmission coolers are completed. The starter motor, alternator, volt reg, coil, water pump and fittings are finished. I'm now starteing to clean up the rocker arms. When that is finished I will drop the pan and see what lurks beneath.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 51
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2006 - 10:43 am: |
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Working on cleaning up the rest of the engine and internals. Minor sludge buildup. Plenty of rust and scale in the cooling passages.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 54
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 09:18 pm: |
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Finally have all the greasy work finished. Put the oil pan back on the block, have the valve covers all cleaned and laqured, cleaned up and descaled the cooling check valves, drained and flushed the velvet drive several times. The block is repainted and ready for assembly which will not happen until the hull is re-flipped. I do not have the overhead room to install a complete engine. New gaskets are ordered and new mill studs are being installed in the exhaust manifolds.   |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 3129
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 08:00 am: |
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Lookin' good! Please continue to post photos.
Thanks,
Jeff |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 55
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 08:22 pm: |
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Hey Jeff, good to hear you're is still interested. Maybe someday someone will use these as refs. The head gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets and cooling hoses should be showing up sometime in the next few weeks from St Charles Il. I'm using RTV where possible. Today I had to get the exhaust manifolds cherry red to remove the rusted mill studs, broke two off  but there was still enough stub to catch with a vise grips.
Cal
PS..pay no attention to the 1980 18' Formula in the background, that was my project a few years ago. |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 56
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, January 14, 2007 - 01:27 pm: |
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Finished cleaning up the exhaust manifolds and painted them. Flushed out the cooling passages. The final coat is on the Velvet drive transmission, the exhaust elbows were power brushed and coated with hi-temp paint. New studs installed in the manifolds. The cooling thermostats were both tested out good at 140 to 150 degrees before opening. Gaskets are on the way. Getting ready for assembly this spring.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 58
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, January 27, 2007 - 10:06 pm: |
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Just about finished with the engine part of the rebuild.
New head gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets and
cooling hoses arrived UPS last week from St Charles, Il.
Everything is on the engine sans carbs, starter and wires.
 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 61
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, February 05, 2007 - 07:31 pm: |
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Finished
Finally put in the last gaskets and hoses, new points, rotor, cond, cap, wires. All pre timed (at least close).
Thanks to all for the help. Andrew for steering me in the direction of manuals, Jeff for encouragement, Pat for addresses for parts.
Without this site and msg board this project would still be beginning.
Cal |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 63
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, February 05, 2007 - 07:55 pm: |
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 |
Cal Martell
Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 75
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 06:51 pm: |
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Jeff I know you wanted to see this baby in the boat so today was the day. Finally after so many months I dropped the heart back in the beast. Now the easy part starts
I'll keep posting during the wireing process cuz I might have some troubles.
Cal |
Fred Anderson
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 05:43 pm: |
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I just purchased a 1962 Century Sabre with a Gray Marine 225. I wonder if you have yours in the water and what it looks like now. By the way, where is the top? |
Cal Martell
Advanced Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 128
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 08:37 pm: |
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Fred, congrats on a good purchase!
Yes the Sabre is in the water as a daily driver and it's a blast. A real head turner she is.
The fireball runs like a bullet on steroids. A little finiky on cold starts but once she runs for the first time in the day the rest is good.
There never was a hard top on this one. It had a soft top from the factory. It was not meant to be a perfect restoration or preservation but just a rebuild that is one fun boat. The avitar with this mesage is a picture of the boat taken this spring on her initial dunking.
Thanks for the inquiry. If you have any questions about the engine etc shout it out.
Cal |
Steven R. Hilpisch
Member
Username: shilpisch
Post Number: 43
Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 01:12 pm: |
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Cal,
Nice looking Century! Being a century owner myself I understand the labor of love and am anxiously getting ready to start the restoration of our 1957 Coronado.
If you or anyone else decides they want to replace the engine decals and have original photos to go from feel free to contact me and I will see what I can do for you! I have images of other decals i have recreated if you would like to see them.
Take care,
Steve |
Cal Martell
Advanced Member
Username: cal
Post Number: 130
Registered: 02-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 04:23 pm: |
|
Steve, thanks for the offer. So far this summer
that engine purrs like a kitten. I've followed
all the Graymarine instructions about re-torquing the heads and resetting the valves
three times already with good results, now it's
just a turn key and go engine. I can still
smell the paing burning off the exhaust
manifolds when she winds out at 4g+ rpm
I do not think I'll be needing the decals because it' not a show boat, just a fun daily runner that is a blast.
Thanks again for the offer though.
Cal |
