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| Converting a 4-236 Perkins to Keel Co... |
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Fred Deacon
New member
Username: big_h_buck
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 02:14 pm: | 
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Hi Everyone
I am a new member today, but have been reading the material on this site for quite some time. There is a wealth of information here. --- Thank you all for sharing your knowledge.
My plan is to convert my 4-236 from fresh-water cooling to a Keel-Cooling system, using 11/5" galvanized pipe attached to the keel of my 37 steel trawler.
I am also converting to dry-stack-exhaust to eliminate the need to draw fresh water.
Would someone be able to help me with redirecting
the water lines on this engine.
I have not been able to find plumbing drawings for
this project anywhere.
This engine currently has a fresh water intake and a heat exchanger.
Fresh water NOT good for c-c-cold weather, or Salt Water. And I am worried about Zebra Mussels and other Stuff clogging my intake.
thank-you in advance,for you help. |
Doug Siddens
New member
Username: dsiddens
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 06:24 pm: |
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Fred, when you say fresh water are you saying that you operate your boat in fresh water? When you say fresh water is not good for c-c-cold weather what symptoms does you engine exhibit in c-c-cold weather? Do you have separate water jacketed exhaust manifold with separate header tank (at the front of the engine) or do you have the combination header tank/exhaust manifold?
What follows is my description based on my separate jacket exhaust plus separate header tank configuration:
If you do put in keel cooling I think you will want to trace the path of the engine's coolant flow. Start at the engine coolant water pump (probably pointing to port unless your engine is facing aft) This will go to one or two heat exchangers. From there it will return to the inside of the engine, probably at the header tank. You will notice that the outside cooling water has hosing/tubing that goes from the outside coolant pump (below the injector pump) to the heat exchanger(s). After leaving the exchanger(s) the plumbing path will come forward to enter the forward end of the jacketed exhaust manifold. It will exit the exhaust manifold a the aft, top. The plumbing circuit will now send it to the water/exhaust injection point and back outside with the exhaust gases. My boat has a stack that rises about four feet and then turns down 180* to exit out the side. At the downturn side of the turn is my water(sea) injection point.
So... you'd be replacing that portion of the circuit that involves the heat exchanger(s). In all of this I would be cautious to determine, amongst other factors, flow rates and friction losses and heat transfer figures. If you go with totally dry stack I presume you will have it blanketed for heat and noise.
disclaimer: I'm not a professional mechanic or know-it-all. Just guy who does the best he can with what he's got. I make mistakes. Sometimes I get it more or less right. |
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