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Yanmar 3GM30F wont start

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Yanmar » Yanmar 3GM30F wont start « Previous Next »

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Marc Groves
Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Can anyone shed light on this please.
I have a 3GM30F which was extremely difficult to start. After having the head overhauled (incl 3 new exhaust valves), the head bolts tightened to the correct torque and the valve clearances set, the injectors checked, the outlet mixer cleaned, a full service done with new filters and new copper washers on ALL connections, the engine will not even attempt to start.
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holzralf
Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi Marc! Been working on diesels all my live !
What makes them run , are the essentials!
That is Compression and fuel.If either one is missing ,they won,t go .
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Marv (Marv)
Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

DID YOU PRIME THE FUEL SYSTEM
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Marc Groves
Posted on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi Holzralf & Marv, like you have been around diesels a long time, but only recently started on marine diesels.
Regarding my problem, I believe I have sufficeint compression, there is no blow back coming up the oil dipstick pipe, there is loads of fuel being 'spitted' from the pipes connecting to the injectors, the fuel limiter on the front of the engine casing has been asjusted in accordance with the manual, but alas, all to no avail. Any other ideas?
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Hunter User
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2004 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

My Yanmar 3GM30F is a bear to start as well. Two or three minutes of cranking are not unusual. People say that you should never crank for more than 30sec without draining the water lift muffler, but if I followed this advice I'd be doing that (however you do it) every time I start the engine. I think I need to add glow plugs to the engine -- there don't seem to be any.
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Marc_G (Marc_G)
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2004 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi Hunter User, yes, befoer all this happened the engine would need about 5x30 sec cranks. It would sound like that eventually 1 cylinder would fire then another then the 3rd, but the revs would have to be kept high or she would die out. I agree about the heater plugs since I cant keep starting the engine with a blow lamp!. My latest try is that I have removed the Inj pump and will send it away for testing - I dont expect they will find anything.
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Eddie
Posted on Sunday, March 28, 2004 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

A temporary remedy is to crank for a short while then wait a minute or two. Some fuel will then be able to settle in the cylinder giving the rings a better seal, increasing compression. Another aid in a pinch is to hold a rag soaked in WD-40 over the intake while you crank. The WD-40 is more volitile than Diesel fuel and might kick it off.
Eddie
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Joe Landrum
Posted on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Try this: it works on my 2GM20
Crank for 15 sec +- with compression release open (no compression) and throttle wide open. This soaks the interior of the cylinders with fuel.
Close compression release.
Start engine with throttle 1/2 open.
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Howie Soule
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2004 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Something is definately wrong. I have two boats each with the 3GM30F (one is chartered) and each starts within 3-5 seconds...very reliably. Occasionally, one may stall out but immediately restarts. I wonder if there is a fuel check valve somewhere or the pump that's leaking. In theory, after you shut the engine down, there should still be pressure.
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Ronald E Cairns
Member
Username: ron_cairns

Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2005
Posted on Saturday, December 03, 2005 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Was there ever water injested into this engines cylinders? If so, then one or more of the conrods have hydrauliced and become shorter. When you had the head off, did you see any water marks. That will cause hard/ no start. Usually hits the exhaust elbow side first as that is the end closer to the mixing exhaust elbow, and lowest in the boat. Compression should be around 380 to 410. Yanmar say about 460 but I have never seen it happen. Adjust valves to .008 How did the bores look? Could you still see cross hatch from the ball hone? Good luck. Let me know what u found?
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ken abrams
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

First and foremost any Yanmar should start to fire in3-4 revolutions except in extreme cold. You most likely have LOW COMPRESSION. Svc limit on this engine is 396psi
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poker casino695
Visitor
Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

poker casino poker 99
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BelgianRIBCenter
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, January 04, 2007 - 04:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yanmars GM series are VEEEEERRRRYYYYY sensitive to their compressions. After repair and check of several engines, I marked up that piston rings are well used allready efter a few houndred hours... ( some allready at 400 hours... ). The cilinders themselves are quite resistant, a simple honing and new piston rings do the job in most cases!

Burned valves are more rare. A diesel engine flame is not THAT hot that you can easily burn exhaust valves. Check you have enough valve clearance ( better a little too much than too less... )

Let check and adjust your injectors frequently ( each 100 hours ). Adjusting is NOT expensive, and that will help a good start, less fuel consumption, less smoke, less noise AND a longer engine life!!!
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Dwight Brooker
Member
Username: sailmaster

Post Number: 36
Registered: 05-2006


Posted on Thursday, January 04, 2007 - 08:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Just spray WD-40 directly into the intake as you are turning it over. Never mind the rag. WD-40 needs to be atomized, as does diesel fuel in order to burn. The rag will not let enough vapors off to start a candle never mind an engine. WD40 will not hurt the engine like starting fluid will. If your compression and timing is good it will start with WD-40 regardless of bad injectors, fuel pump, or glow plugs. If it stops when the WD-40 is stopped then your fuel system is at fault. This could be injectors, injector pump, fuel pump or bad fuel lines or bad fuel. If it does not start with WD-40 Then you have other problems. I am a professional with over 30 year’s in the business. Cranking any engine for extended periods of time is wrong. If any engine is not starting properly, then something is wrong. Cranking it until it eventually starts and then saying that Yanmars are like that is a load of crap. You have to systematically go through the systems to discover the problem. Good luck
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ted edwards
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Looking for a used head for a 2GM20 Yanmar, can anyone help or point me in the direction of one?
Thanks for the help!
Cheers
Ted
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scott stephens
Advanced Member
Username: scott_s

Post Number: 448
Registered: 05-2006
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2007 - 06:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Ted, go to top of yanmar section and hit "start new discussion" maybe someone will see Your post. there is also a free classifieds at top of page. I have used it a couple of times, with good results. good luck.
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gaiter
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

How you doing friends my name is Darron and i ran into a problem with my deasil engine we tried to bleed the injecters,no deasil came out of the injector pump. Can it be clogged with dirt,or is it broken. Can it be tested,if so, how.
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Elaine Leonard
Visitor
Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Own a 35.5 Hunter with a 3GM30F Yanmar. Just had the injectors rebuilt - engine runs nicely but now the engine dies out at anything below 1300 rpm's. Used to idle at about 1000 - 1100 rpms. Any idea why this would suddenly occur and secondly will I harm transmission shifting gears at 1300 rpm's? Many thanks.
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BJs Marine
Member
Username: bjsmarine

Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2007
Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 09:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes ---you will harm trany shifting at 1300 RPM . Also 1000 at idle is to hi . Should idle 600 in gear.
Would sugest you get the timing checked.
best luck
BJ
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scott stephens
Advanced Member
Username: scott_s

Post Number: 636
Registered: 05-2006
Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

check your compression, timing. if they are good, look at injection limiter. any smoke, or other symptoms? also, start a new string. this one is getting very long, and has nothing to do with original question.
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Marty The 1
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have the same engine with 380 hours (7 yr old) this year it started to build pressure in the valve cover and leak oil around the valve cover gasket. When I remove the vapour return hose to the intake manifold, I get a white smoke at idle.

I checked the valves and some were too thight borught them all to 0.008 as per spec. the engine is not hard to start but needs the throttle lever at 25% to do it. THen after 1 minute I can bring it back to idle at 775 rpm. no unsual smoke at exhaust, I can bring it to 3000 rpm and it will deliver good power almost no oil cuinsumption just small leaks. I think may be a burnt valve?

Any other ideas?
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Daniel Daoust
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, November 08, 2007 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I own a Yanmar 3GM 700 hours. Oil and filter changed every 100 hours. For the first time at end of season while running at 2000RPM the engine suddenly went down to 1200 rpm, increasing the fuel throttle would not do anything except having it to lower even more (sensing it would die).

I then proceeded at decreasing the fuel input (throttle) for a while ( 5 minutes) then when i throttled it back up and it ran fine again.

This scenario happened a couple of times so far.

Any Idea?

Thanks
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Maji Tembo
Visitor
Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2007 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Daniel,
I would not be surprised if you mixing elbow is clogged. I had the same problem and found that I had only a hole the size of a pencil remaining for the exhaust! My engine has less than 500 hrs. Easy to check.
Brice
s/v Maji Tembo
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2xs Sailing Charter
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Maji
off to check our mixing elbow just incase

thanks

http://www.sail2xs.co.uk
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oldcajun
Visitor
Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2008 - 07:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hard starting is often caused by insufficient fuel due to an air leak between the engine-mounted fuel pump and the fuel tank.
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georgia boater
Visitor
Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a 2QM 20 Yanmar that is very hard to start.
My current mechanic is telling me it needs new injectors and another I consulted stated the compression is probaably low and I need a new/replaacement engine. Would like to avoid the engine route if at all possible. Noticed much air when I bled secondary filter (very recently replaced)...still would not start.
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