Yanmar 3GM36F injector re-installation

Author Message   Kerry Allen Member Username: cascade_36 Post Number: 8 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 04:51 pm:    Hello all. I am re-installing the injectors in my engine but have run into a problem. The front (lower half) of the chamber remained in the head when it was deep cleaned, surfaced and the valves ground. Do i need to pull them and replace the packings? If so what is the best way to pull them without causing any damage? The rear (upper half) was removed and bagged. The manual says to "always use new insulation packing" on the rear pre-cumbustion chamber. My problem is that I am having a heck of a time removing the old insulators from the recess in the top of the chamber rear half. They seem to be mashed in there pretty tightly. I sure don't want to damage anything. I have tried putting them in boiling water thinking that maybe heating up the chamber would loosen them. No luck. Anyone have any experience with these or have any ideas? Any advice sure would be appreciated. Kerry   Ronald E Cairns Member Username: ron_cairns Post Number: 99 Registered: 12-2005 Posted on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 09:16 pm:    Hi Kerry, The pre-cup that fits into the combustion chamber has 3 small holes with in. To get them out when the head is off the block is to use a socket that is slightly smaller and bang them out from the combustion side. This may damage that part of the precup. Then again if they are tight in the head, only replace the one copper packing and install the precup part 2. Then the insulator fits into the recess of the precup part 2 and then the copper waffer. Torque all down then test run, check to see if you get any blowby from around the injector, I feel it may work out well.   Kerry Allen Member Username: cascade_36 Post Number: 9 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 02:02 pm:    Thanks again for the quick reply Ron. The combustion side (part 1) will stay. The head is alread on the block. My problem is that I can't seem to get the old insulators out of the part 2 recess. I suppose I could get really physical on it but I am worried that I will damage something. I was hoping there was some trick to it. As a side note your earlier advice to go slow and take my time was really good advice. I wish I would have followed it. Sunday I striped out a couple of rocker arm retaining studs and yesterday I twisted off one of the exhaust manifold attaching studs. I was using a torque wrench on all and double checked the required torque but still failed. I bought a sears 1/2 in drive trq wrench that has a range of 20 ft/lbs to about 150 ft/lbs. Foolishly I thought I could use it in the 25 to 35 range with some accuracy. Hense the spun bolts.... I have a smaller in/lbs trq wrench that only goes up to 250 in/lbs. So now I'm on the hunt for a wrench that goes to 500 in/lbs or higher. Maybe that will keep me from stripping anything esle. The wait on the rocker arm studs is about two weeks. The good news is that I am learning with the help of this site and people like you willing to offer up your experience. Your free beer account is growing..... Kerry   Ronald E Cairns Member Username: ron_cairns Post Number: 100 Registered: 12-2005 Posted on Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 08:03 pm:    Take the precup and put in a vise. Make sure you use some soft aluminum or wood to hold it firm so it will not mar the surface. You can use a pick to dig out the insulators. Use a small hammer to tap out that insulator. They are a graphite substance with aluminum paper material in-between the fibre. 8MM nuts usually need a torgue of 12 ft pounds. Yep go slow and read over the sequence twice. You are not the first to twist off these nuts, so no biggie, parts are available and not to hard to get. Good Luck ..Ron   Kerry Allen Member Username: cascade_36 Post Number: 10 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 01:52 pm:    You are a tremendous help to us novices Ron. I owe you. Your willingness to offer advice reduces the mystery and fear factor. I think I got it now. Many, many thanks. Kerry

Add Your Message Here Post: -Color- Black Red Green Blue Yellow Purple Orange Cyan Gray White -Font- Arial Courier Symbol Times Verdana -Size- Smallest (-2) Small (-1) Normal Large (+1) Largest (+2) Username: Posting Information: Only registered users may post messages here. Registration is FREE and easy, click on the REGISTER link at the top of the page. Thanks. Password: Options: Automatically activate URLs in message Action:

Administration Log Out   Previous Page Next Page

Home / Directory | Engine Manuals | Engine Parts | Discussion Board | Free Classifieds | Orders / Shipping | Contact Us | View Cart

About Us | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy MarineEngine.com, 184 Jones Dr., Brandon, VT 05733 USA Phone: 802-247-4700 FAX: 802-301-1034 info@marineengine.com Copyright © 2000 - 2007 by MarineEngine.com, Inc. All rights reserved

Traduca Traduisez Traduza Traduca Ubersetzen