| Author |
Message |
    
Andy Thom
New member
Username: gorf
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 06:01 am: | 
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Does anyone know if the slide sleeve on a 120S saildrive can be replaced without removing the gearbox? i.e. with the boat in the water? |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2170
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 06:16 am: |
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What do You mean by 'slide sleeve'? |
Andy Thom
New member
Username: gorf
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 06:45 am: |
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Hi Morten,
It's item 27 of the attached. |
Andy Thom
Member
Username: gorf
Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 06:47 am: |
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Sorry,
Item 22 |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2171
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 07:02 am: |
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Sorry, but no!
You have to split the drive, screws 67.
Lock the lower splines-end of the shaft 23 in a vice.
Off nut 25 (counter-thread!!!)
Off lock-rings 29
Lift up shaft and change shift-conus!
But I strongly suggest You get a decent manual before going on!!
Why do You need to change? |
Dick V
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 08:51 am: |
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No nut on top. There are 2 half moon shaped lock rings. A special tool is required to press down on friction discs to remove. Then upper gear can be removed then sliding sleeve. Morten is very correct that you need book before hand and unit needs to be removed. |
Andy Thom
Member
Username: gorf
Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 01:25 am: |
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You are correct Dick that there is no nut but instead two collets that need to be removed. If there is sufficient movement in the disc/friction springs to remove these collets and access the sliding sleeve there appears no reason to have to remove the gearbox.
The reason I need to change this part Morton, is because the forward/astern gear selection is very hard and neutral almost impossible to select with the engine running despite careful adjustment of the control cable.
P.S. Manual is on the way. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2175
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 02:41 am: |
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Then I would first have attempted to re-shim the 'dog' pos 34.Pos 38 is a number of shims and the numper have to be as many as the vertical shaft just turns free. The dog runs in an oval V on the cone and is spring loaded to be able to follow the ovality. If too many shims, the dog play in the V gets too big and neutral is difficult to obtain. If too few shims it will bottom in the V and You dammage the cone and dog. Ideal is next to 0 play when the dog is at 'top' of ovality. Another thing that happends is if the play is too big, the 'hammer' effect needed to get out of gear is reduced, and shifting out of gear gets hard.
Re-shim the dog (34)(reduce number of shims) before dismantling, that might solve all problems. |
Andy Thom
Member
Username: gorf
Post Number: 6
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 04:14 am: |
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Thanks Morton I'll give it a go this weekend. |
Dick V
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:07 am: |
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Wihtout supporting lower part of shaft, it is almost impossible to press rings to remove lock halves. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2176
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:48 am: |
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If not mistaken the shaft must out, and without removing the lover lock-rings that might be quite a Houdini trick.
However it has been a while since I took one appart, and mainly the 110S which are slightly different. (Nut on top, no lock-rings). |
slide sleeve
