MarineEngine.com - Your best connection for marine engines, parts, service, and information. View Cart / Check Out Contact MarineEngine.com Ordering and Shipping Information Free Engine Classifieds Engine Parts Discussion Board Engine Manuals Home / Directory
add bookmark or favorites | email this page
Topics Topics Edit Profile Profile Help/Instructions Help Member List Register  
Search Last 1|3|7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  

Aluminum Fuel Tank Installation

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Chris Craft » Aluminum Fuel Tank Installation « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brian G.
Member
Username: briang0

Post Number: 98
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I purchased a used aluminum fuel tank for my 74 CC 25'Explorer. I am looking for knowledge on doing the installation. I have found two different ways so far. One was to glue 1/4" strips of plastic to the bottom of the tank every 12" making sure that the plastic has no space for water to accumulate under it to prevent corrosion of the tank. The other one is to encapsulate the tank in foam. I like the plastic strips. Any one have some experience in this who would like to add to the discussion. I have a plastic tank right now that is only 30 gal which is a little small for my bb chevy. I have plenty of time so I would like to do it right. I also have read that I sure use stainless fittenings inbetween the brass and tank. Thanks in advance.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 4874
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 07:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Use the first method, with 3M 5200 as your "glue". The foam method might allow water vapor between the tank and the foam, and that would be a disaster.

Note: One of the smartest surveyors in America recommends the glue strip method.

Jeff
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 290
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

30 gal??? and I thought that 40 gal was small for my orignal 283CID/185 HP engine!! (69 CC 23' Lancer) Fortunatly, new engine, a 260HP 5.7L FWC MERC seems to get better fuel economy. Later Lancers had 60 gal tanks. Was going to increase my tank size this season, but figured that I couldn't afford to fill it up. This year.. short trips only.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 291
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

BTW inspect the "new" tank CAREFULLY for corrosion before you install it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brian G.
Member
Username: briang0

Post Number: 100
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I received my tank a couple of days ago. I found two small spots on the bottom of the tank where you can see the aluminum was corroding I cleaned the areas with a brass wire brush neither spot goes through the tank. My question, is there something out there that I can use to fill in the spots both smaller the the dia of a pencil and my guess is less then 1/32 deep. I would like to make sure that the corrsion doesn't continue to eat through. The tank has been pressurized and doesn't leak.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 4883
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Try this: Mix up some clear liquid epoxy. Next, using a piece of coarse (40 grit) sandpaper, sand the epoxy into the aluminum until you see it turn a grey color. Let it harden thoroughly and you're all set.

Jeff
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rick Sweeten
Senior Member
Username: linesix

Post Number: 1386
Registered: 11-2002


Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Brian,

The glued strips work, as do installing starboard strips on the surface where the tank is to be mounted. Just be sure the screws are recessed so they don't contact the tank. Also make sure the area is clean of all debris, including old screws prior to setting the tank. Regarding inspection, I would be more concerned about the welds rather than corrosion on a new tank. Inspect all welds, especially at the corners. I would even consider filling the tank with water to test it. The manufacturers I work for all test the tanks prior to installation, even though they are tested by the manufacturer prior to shipping. It has payed off many times, especially with a 500 gallon tank that goes in before the deck goes on.

Good luck,

Rick
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brian G.
Advanced Member
Username: briang0

Post Number: 101
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Do I have to build a frame around the front and sides or just glued to a sheet on the bottom?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rick Sweeten
Senior Member
Username: linesix

Post Number: 1387
Registered: 11-2002


Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I wouldn't use a sheet. You want to keep the area ventilated, that's why you use strips, it lets air through and keeps the moisture level down. You don't have to make a frame either, unless you need the structure to secure the tank in place.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Scarinzi
Member
Username: crabman

Post Number: 11
Registered: 12-2008
Posted on Friday, December 12, 2008 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Here's how I did mine after E10 ethanol fuel destroyed my fiberglass tanks.

http://marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brian G.
Advanced Member
Username: briang0

Post Number: 114
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Sunday, March 08, 2009 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The snow is melting so it will soon be time to start my project. I will need to constuct some type of frame to mount the tank to. I was planning on mounting it in the stern where the current plastic tank was. I am planning on mounting it to the 2 large stringers that the engine is also mounted to. They are already notched for a tank with a v type bottom but this tank is flat. The plastic tank was in a wooden box and the box was held in place with 2x4s. I will have to construct something to mount the aluminum tank to. The web site above talks about a piece plywood sealed in fiberglass then glue the plastic strips that are glued to the tank to the fiberglass sheet. Will I need to put a frame around it to make sure that if the tank ever became loose it would go bouncing around my bilge or is the 3m 5200 that relyable.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Scarinzi
Member
Username: crabman

Post Number: 60
Registered: 12-2008
Posted on Monday, March 09, 2009 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi Brian, I would make sure the top of the tank is supported either by straps or a frame after setting the tank bottom on a floor raised as discussed in the website. Leave a 1/4" clearance minimum around the tank sides and bottom. Use the strips and 5200 to get this spacing. This assures water will not trap and corrode the tank.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brian G.
Advanced Member
Username: briang0

Post Number: 119
Registered: 10-2006
Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If I put straps over the top of the tank to hold it down what kind of material should they be? Will I have to worry about the same corrosion issues with the straps as I would with moisture on the bottom. If moisture gets under the strap wouldn't it also corrode the tank top?

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
Only registered users may post messages here. Registration is FREE and easy, click on the REGISTER link at the top of the page. Thanks.
Password:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Administration Administration Log Out Log Out   Previous Page Previous Page Next Page Next Page


Home / Directory | Engine Manuals | Engine Parts | Discussion Board | Free Classifieds | Orders / Shipping | Contact Us | View Cart

About Us | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy
MarineEngine.com, 184 Jones Dr., Brandon, VT 05733 USA
Phone: 802-247-4700 FAX: 802-301-1034 info@marineengine.com
Copyright © 2000 - 2007 by MarineEngine.com, Inc. All rights reserved
   
Traduca
EspanolEspanol
Traduisez
FrancaisFrancais
Traduza
PortuguesePortuguese
Traduca
Italiano
Ubersetzen
Deutschen
  
Sierra Marine Catalog
Seloc Online Manuals
Product Categories
Engine Parts · By Brand
Engine Manuals · By Brand
Books
General Repair and Maint.
Care and Repair
· Adhesive and Sealants
· Bottom Cleaners
· Cleaners Wax and Polish
· Mops Brushes and Sponges
Covers and Tops
· Bimini Tops   · Hardware
· Cover Accessories
· Motor Covers
· Universal Boat Covers
Electronics
· Gauges and Compasses
· Mounts and Accessories
Electrical
· Batteries & Chargers
· Battery Accessories
· Dockside Electrical
· Electrical Terminals
· Electrical Wire, Cable
· Fuses, Fuse Holders
· Switches
· Wire Ties, Clips, Tape
Fuel Systems
· Fuel Tanks
· Fittings, Fills, Vents
· Hose & Primer Bulbs
· Filters, Senders, Caps
Hardware
· Deck Cabin Hardware
· Molding and Rub Rails
· Rails and Fittings
· Snaps Shackles and Hooks
· Windshield Hardware
Lighting
· Cabin Lights · Light Bulbs
· Navigation Light Parts
· Navigation Lights
· Spotlights   · Parts
Mooring and Dock
· Boat Fenders · Boat Hooks
· Buoys and Markers
· Deck Cleats · Dock Edging
· Dock Parts and De-Icers
· Fender Covers and Holders
· Keelshield / Toon-Tectors
· Ladders and Platforms
Prop / Trim / Transom
· Jack Plates, Wedges
· Mounting Brackets
· Outboard Stands
· Trim Tabs, Stablizers
· Prop Nuts, Locks, Pins
 · Propellers · Wrenches
Pumps
· Aerator Pumps
· Bilge Pumps
· Drain Plugs and Tubes
· Hose · Through Hull Fittings
Rope and Cordage
· Anchor Line   · Dock Line
· Fender Line   · Bulk Rope
· Shock Cord and Bungee
Safety Products
· Horns Bells and Whistles
· Mirrors
· Vents Blowers and Hose
Sanitation
· Fresh Water Pumps
· Marine Toilets
· Sanitation Chemicals
· Sanitation Pumps/Hose
· Water/Waste System Parts
Seating
· Deck Chairs and Tables
· Fishing Seats
· Lounge Seats
· Pontoon Furniture
· Seat Bases and Pedestals
Steering / Control
· Control Boxes
· Control Cables
· Hydraulic Steering
· Mechanical Steering
· Rigging · Steering Wheels
Tools / Shop Supplies
· Lubricants & Additives
· Motor Flushers
· Tools & Test Equipment
Trailering
· Boat Guides/Motor Support
· Hitches Balls Couplers
· Rollers Brackets Springs
· Tires Wheels and Carriers
· Trailer Hubs & Bearings
· Trailer Jacks
· Trailer Wiring and Lighting
· Winches Straps Tie Downs
 Manufacturer List