350Q timing !

Author Message   Jrusso New member Username: jrr4948 Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Friday, May 05, 2006 - 04:19 pm:    Is there anyone out there that is aware of how to time a 350Q? I have visited several chat sites and see the same question from many owners with the 350Q and no responses as to how to time the engine. Does anyone know where the marks are? How can the manual say 10 Degrees and we are all looking for the same mark? Am I missing something? Thank you Fast Jeff for your response however I can not imagine chriscraft would expect an owner to use timing tape (which may be my last and only resort!) Thank you for your help JRR   dogsharks38 Member Username: dogsharks38 Post Number: 13 Registered: 12-2005 Posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 07:02 pm:    Try http://www.chriscraftcommander.com there is a small block chevy section there, but you should post a note to "Mark" and ask your questions about timing to him. He has a pair of 350Q motors right now, just splashed in Lake Erie, and he'd be happy to give you a hand online or offline. Regards, good luck. Dogsharks I might add, when you find the answer to your questions, you should post a follow-up note here so others can see it and benefit from the info. Regards   herb Visitor Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2007 - 09:55 pm:    There is a pin sticking out and a drill hole on the flywheel. Match these up, at 5-700 rpm and the timing is set at 8 Degrees btdc as specified in the CC manual for the Q engine.   dogsharks38 Member Username: dogsharks38 Post Number: 72 Registered: 12-2005 Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2007 - 02:49 pm:    I'll certainly defer to a more informed source or a printed Chris Craft spec, but I believe the Q motors are intended to be set at 10-degrees BTDC, but this spec is not found in the 307-Q, 327-Q or 350-Q owners manual, it is only found in the Parts Manual under Engine Specs. Chris Craft recommends timing be done at 500 RPM, and in their words, “To set the ignition timing use a timing light. The flywheel is provided with timing marks for right hand and left hand engines on its face and an ignition timing indicator is positioned on the front cover. With the timing light connected to the battery and No. 1 spark plug and the engine running at idle (500 RPM) rotate the distributor so that the timing light shows the flywheel timing mark directly in line with the ignition timing indicator” The centerline of the timing dimple on the flywheel is set at 10.0 degrees advance,(aka btdc).No other marks or lines are present,no confusion that way .The dimple has a range from edge to edge of 9.5 degrees to 10.5 degrees .That is set at 500 rpm in gear or dockside at 500 rpm . Many people seem to prefer the 10.5 degree setting, on the edge of the dimple. On old motors there can be many things needing attention simultaneously, and it is not often so convenient to be able to turn an idle adjustment and fix the issue, because that could be only half or a third of the problem. I have tuned many an engine by ear, listening for the most comfortable spot on the distributor. This is sometimes more appropriate for customized motors that no longer can rely on the factory setting. On Chris Craft motors, however, I have not been able to improve on the factory setting recommendations for overall running. Therefore, tune to the dimple on the flywheel as CC has indicated ! Motors that run good at WOT and don't idle down well, sometimes have a little air leak around the gasket or a faulty PVC connection. This leans out the mix at low speed, but still allows things to look good at high speed because the high volume of air at high rpm is not really affected by a small air leak. Valves that are set too tight can cause poor low speed runnig too, and the Ford 427 is especially sensitive to this, and I suspect the Q series is as well. Distributor springs can also affect the ability to idle down if they don't return the rotating armature the points are secured to all the way back. I was rather horrified recently to pull the points armature off of a 327F to replace the system with a Pertronix ignition system, only to see inside and find rusted and corroded springs. I ordered new ones and have yet to install those. I like to keep clean plugs in my motors, and I have recently gone to a very low resistance plug wire. For reference, it is the splitfire wire system, and upon testing it with an ohm meter I found the marketing hype to actually be accurate on this product, the resistance is incredibly low. I took a tip from a buddy on this one, and since I was amazed at how his motors started and ran, I plunked down the cash for a pair of these and have not been disappointed. It is just one more link in the chain of reliability. P

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