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Opinions - Engine Block testing

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Chrysler Inboard and Sterndrive » Opinions - Engine Block testing « Previous Next »

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Stuart Henderson
Member
Username: stuart

Post Number: 31
Registered: 07-2006
Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I am trying to determine if my 318 block is cracked

I am seeking opinons as to if the following test would work.

With the block bare plug all water passages except for the "water in port".Install a shreader valve in this port and then pump in air.Then use soapy water to look for leaks Another option could be to fill the block with antifreeze and then pump in air.

Your opinions are appreciated
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Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz

Post Number: 110
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If a crack isn't visible to the eye, I'm not sure your simulations will create the conditions with which it would leak. The function of a very fine/hairline-type crack often relies on expansion/contraction (temp) more so than water pressure.

Typically, when these blocks crack, you can find it with a visual inspection.

What has you suspicious? Early freeze?
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Tony
Member
Username: amantinori

Post Number: 6
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I just ripped out my 318 as you can see in the post below this one on the board, my heads and blcok are just fine one head is brand new. I bought a long blcok from rapido marine and they dont need the core. Im in Jersey if your intrested at all. i have it compleatly in pecies ready for a rebuild kit. this one is standard rotation.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7120
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I did that with a Caddy 4.9 V-8 years ago (that are famous for leaking coolant). Fill the block with colored water, pull the drain plug out, and put 15 pounds of pressure eon the water jacket and LEAVE it there overnight. If there's a leak, you'll know.

Jeff

PS: Stuff pure white paper towels anywhere a leak could occur. You'll see the water's color on them.
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noel skwiot
Member
Username: noelct

Post Number: 17
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

"Fill the block with colored water,"

You can use anti-freeze as well, if you have a black light. The anti-freeze will fluoresce under the black light like "Zyglo" in NTD labs. If you want to perform real non-destructive testing, you'd apply dye penetrating to outside area to be tested. http://www.skygeek.com/ats-za70.html

Then the area gets wiped clean and sprayed with a white powder. The crack, which was penetrated by dye, will wick the dye back onto the powder revealing the crack.

The real stuff is pricey. You could substitute a good pentrating oil for dye penatrant.

,Noel.


,Noel.
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Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz

Post Number: 112
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I know this is one of those “that wasn’t the question” answers but, where Stuart is talking about testing a BARE block, I think that the best bet is to simply have it magnafluxed. The $35-65 that it'll cost is short money to insure that a DIY test doesn't miss something......in which case a bad block could be completely reassembled and reinstalled.

If, on the other hand, magnafluxing validates the block’s integrity, a couple of extra bucks thrown at the shop can get you a nicely freshened-up block for reassembly (honed, etc.).

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