| Author |
Message |
    
Tony
New member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 11:18 pm: | 
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1979 Port side Chrysler 318 pulled for winter repair, has a rod knock, wrench time is no issue so that said rapidomarine is offering a long block for 1400. Any feedback on these guys? Jasper offers the same rebuild for 2400. The question is do I go for the rebuild or take the existing motor minus the accessories to the local machine shop and get it rebuilt? One more question on Manifolds, original existing i believe but don't seem to be a problem, replace?? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7058
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 05:56 am: |
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$2,400 is WAY too much. (Chryslers are cheaper than S B Chevies.) I don't recommend "Joe's Machine Shop" either. I bought a long block from a company that pre-runs it on a dyno--Joe's doesn't do that! The cam was already broken in, and the compression and oil pressure tested. THAT'S what what you want, for the installation is an expensive pain in the *ss and NOT covered by the guarantee.
Got mine from Marine Power Service in New Jerseys and am very pleased:
http://www.marineparts.com/partspages/Engel/Engel.htm
Jeff |
Joseph J Levelis
Member
Username: joe_l
Post Number: 23
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 10:19 am: |
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Jeff,
I am looking at 318 long blocks.
Marine power Service is in NJ, but that marine parts.com shows a fl loation. It appears two different companies.
Am I missing something? |
Buehler Jet
Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 95
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:17 am: |
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Unless you simply love wrenching and/or want to build a 318 to a certain spec, it's tough to beat the value of a long block. If you get it from a reputable remanufacture, it's better than a DIY simply because it'll have a warrantee (and will probably cost about the same as a legit, DIY rebuild at the end of the day).
I bought a 318 long block built by First Mate/Marshall (originally recommended by Dave Kane on this board). It came with a very complete FelPro gasket set which will cost you another couple-hundred if not included with the long block. I’ve since had a tech there email me the build specs……they were very responsive and the specs were pretty impressive. I got mine from www.1800runsnew.com. Their price was good and they were within driving distance of me. However, I think that a lot of the better distributors are probably selling First Mate engines. They may even sell direct.
Lastly, Jeff’s right about the $2,400 being hollywood money for a 318. On the other hand, I’d be careful of something as low as $1,400. I think that $1,800-2k is what you can expect to pay from a reputable builder (with a good warrantee, complete gasket kit, etc). Because of sheer size and volume, the bigger/better builders are going to use more new parts and any parts that are refurbished will probably go through a more high-tech and procedural remanufacture process (vs. some guy in a salvage yard’s machine shop with a sandblaster and a ham sandwich).
Note to Joseph – if you’re replacing both motors, you might want consider the 360 upgrade. There’s barely a cost difference and almost all of the parts interchange. This is probably the most popular “should have done” among small block Chrysler owners who’ve repowered with new 318’s (self included). 318’s are great engines but the 360 has some significant out-of-the-box torque/HP advantages. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7061
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:40 am: |
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..."if you’re replacing both motors, you might want consider the 360 upgrade. There’s barely a cost difference and almost all of the parts interchange. "
Careful! The flywheel, oil pan (not included in a long block), timing pulley and other parts are different.
The guys I recommended are:
http://www.marinepowerservice.com/
This is a different company from Marine Power (engines).
Jeff |
David Kain
Advanced Member
Username: hurrikain
Post Number: 146
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 07:02 pm: |
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The 360's have a number of differences. because the 360 is a externally balanced engine and the 273, 318 , and 340's are internally balanced. Flywheel, Harmonic balancer, Oilpan, and even the port side motor mount is different ( you can make the motor mount work, but there is a little shimming to do to make it work.
Dave |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 22
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 10:32 am: |
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Be careful with Jasper ,Im still having problems with mine. Although their warenty is great 18 months . |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7105
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 10:39 am: |
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.."Although their warenty is great 18 months ."
That's not too comforting as you hire a forklift to get the motor out--again!
I strongly recommend a good rebult long block by a reputable supplier rather than a Joe's Machine Shop rebuild. The cost and effort putting the thing in--twice or more--makes it the way to go.
Jeff |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 23
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 10:47 am: |
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Tell me about it! the only good thing is they pay for everything. including the lift out. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7108
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 05:29 pm: |
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Wow! Then that's a really good deal.
Jeff |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 104
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 06:03 pm: |
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Yeah…that's pretty impressive.
I’d imagine that some of those companies put a heavy burden of proof on the customer and/or do everything they can to skirt warrantee responsibilities by calling into question the assembler/installer, any parts were transferred from an old motor, etc., etc.
It’s a lousy process you’re going through…..but at least it seems as though they’re making good on their errors. |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 24
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 08:23 pm: |
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Yes this the second time I have had to pull this motor the first time they sent it out with the lobe on the cam for the fuel pump rod was not polished and it ate a 1/4" off of it so this filled the motor full of steel and they said send it back, and on this motor also has steel freeze plugs in the back of the heads, not good either. like I said though the only thing keeping me from loosing my mind is they pay for lifts, oil, gaskets, all parts, |
Tony
New member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 10:02 am: |
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So the long block is on the way, does any one knwo what is teh best weight oil to use. The shop is telling me straight 40. |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 105
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 10:28 am: |
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I don’t know why anyone recommends straight weights anymore. Multi-viscosity oil is the way to go.
For the first fill and all-important cam break in, I’d suggest a high-zinc oil like Valvoline VR1. Typically, any brand’s “race oil” will be a high-zinc product. They have to label it this way because the new API standards require “on road” oils to have much lower levels of zinc than in years past. In any event, zinc’s properties help prevent flat tappet cam wear. Even if you don’t stick with it after-the-fact, use it for cam break in.
I used 20/50 VR1 for the cam break in and, after that, went to 10/40 Royal Purple (a bit overkill price-wise…..but very good oil). |
Tony
New member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 11:31 am: |
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good to know on the oil, another issues im struggleing with is the manifolds and elbows, it seems that they are orignal from 79', a bit rusty but not viable leakage or blockage, manifolds are expesive but elbows are only about 120. Do i go for replacements? i already basically replaced everthing but when do you say enough is enough? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 106
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 04:01 pm: |
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If I had a good answer to the "enough is enough" question, I probably wouldn't own a boat!
Tough call on the manifolds and elbows. I guess it all comes down to how close to rust-out/failure you think they might be. You don't want to risk ingestion of water with your brand new motor.
Although it’s neurotic thinking and strictly opinion……should you ever have to make a warrantee claim on that motor, the more receipts you have for brand new components, the less you allow the manufacture to call into question the condition of reused parts, etc. |
Conqueror
Advanced Member
Username: 300hb
Post Number: 145
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 06:46 pm: |
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A good alternative to oils that don't have zinc which is most of today's oil's especially any with the 'star burst' on the back is diesel oil like 15W-40 and it's cheap. Motorcraft, Shell Rotella, Chevron are available every where.
I'm not a big fan of full synthetics in things that aren't designed for them and that accounts for most of our stuff. Drives, engines, tranny's. There not a magic bullet. |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 25
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 08:01 pm: |
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Tony, just FYI I used straight 30 weight in my new 440's and that was recomended by a number resources as well as Jasper recommened that as well. As for the risers I'm going through the same thing and I replaced one side and the temp is a big difference with the new risers, I can touch the risers on the new ones at full temp and on the old ones I cant touch the riseres . I also put them in acid at first but the acid took so much metal away so I replaced them. |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 107
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 11:25 pm: |
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With engines that were built 30-40 years ago, it's often easiest for people (rebuilders included) to simply refer to the manufacturer's original lubricant specs. To some, the owners manual is still the bible.
Multi-viscosity and synthetic oils are advancements. Ironically, conventional oils have become so "modernized" (lower zinc, detergents, etc.), that older/flat tappet engines are probably better-protected with high-performance synthetics than they are with the conventionals that people swear they require.
If an older engine has always been fed straight weight conventional oil, there's no strong argument to be made for a late-life change. However, for a new engine like Tony's, rebuilt in 2009 with many brand new components, there's nothing taboo about using modern lubricants. |
jim piersol
Member
Username: sammi
Post Number: 82
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:23 am: |
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Tony, did you buy it from Rapidomarine? I need one this spring and you can't beat the price. Please keep me posted on how you think Rapidomarine is. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 10:27 am: |
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Jim,
I did go through rapido, after doing much searching there was no one beating the price, a few were close and no core charge. I saw another post that said the product was good and they had tons of references. I shoudl recieve the long block thursday and then reassemble this weekend. Wish me luck, going to attempt to fire it up in the garage before i have the marina drop it in the boat. Any tips to look out for? |
Joseph J Levelis
Member
Username: joe_l
Post Number: 26
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 12:36 pm: |
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Tony,
Make sure you pre oil it and insure you have oil to both L&R valve rocker shafts and arms.
install a oil pressure guage/do a compression check. & record numbers for future ref.
Please let us know your progress.
Joe |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 108
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 01:15 pm: |
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Tony – the 318 build-out is pretty straightforward.
Sorry if I’m hitting points that you’re already well aware of but…..a couple of things that come to mind.
If you don’t already have them, the only unique tools you’ll need are A) a steering wheel puller to remove the harmonic balancer from the old motor and B) a priming rod for your drill (for the pre-oiling that Joe mentioned). Remember to add silicone to the gaskets around the intake manifold water passages. It also doesn’t hurt to put some Loctite Ultra Black on the timing chain cover gasket surface as well as the surfaces where the front and rear oil pan gaskets seal to the timing chain cover and block, respectively. Speaking of front and rear oil pan gaskets, there are two kinds……one has rubber studs/plugs running the entire width of the gasket (maybe six total). The other has only two plugs…..one on either end of the gasket. Just make sure the ones included in the long block kit match up to your old pan. The pan will have matching holes for said plugs. Your ’79 will probably be the two-plug jobs.
If using studs to mount the exhaust manifolds, you may want to order some new ones. They can be a bear to remove from the old heads. Otherwise, if using bolts, just make sure you get the appropriate length for your manifolds + stud holes. Add silicone to the two end studs/bolts on both heads…..as they run into water passages.
If you’re going to fire it in the garage, it should only be long enough to know it runs. Otherwise, you should be prepared to run it for the length of the cam break in (20-30 minutes) and have a full set of external monitors (RPM’s, temp, oil pressure, etc.). That half-hour is the most nerve-racking part of the process. Once you make it through that, dial in the timing, change the oil and you’re done.
Again, sorry if I’m outlining things you’ve already got covered.
Keep us posted on progress and post/email if you need any help in the process. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 02:59 pm: |
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this was all great info, first time I have done a compleate rebild of this magnatude. Im going to have to do some reaserch on the pre oiling. If i can get it to the point where it will safely run im going to try to do it for the full 30 mins, my marina is a dam rip off and doesnt like to let you work on the boat in there yard. the staff techs get offened i guess lol |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 109
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 03:36 pm: |
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Where this is your first pass at this, I highly recommend the book “How to Rebuild: Small Block Mopar” (link below). It covers a lot more than you’ll need for a long block conversion but its dirt cheap insurance for any and all uncertainties you could encounter. Amazon or your local B&N could probably have it for you by the weekend.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Mopar-Engines/dp/0895861283 |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 7
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 01:54 pm: |
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for the oil, coolant, and other misc sensors, are there any difference in just going to the local auto parts shop and getting them to match or do they have to be marine parts? Same question of pulleys, mine are pretty well rusted along with the hrominc balancer, what do you guys think about getting them bead blasted?? with it throw off the balancer ? what about pulleys? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 111
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 02:59 pm: |
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Exhaust temp sensors, etc. will/should be marine specific. You can get away with auto versions of things like oil pressure senders, for example. For anything that you're trying to match at an auto parts store, I'd start at a place like NAPA. Not only do the carry marine parts, but they often have employees who actually know something about engines and are willing to do some legwork to find you a part.
I bead-blasted a lot of my old parts (incl. harmonic balancer, drive pulley, oil pan, flywheel, etc.). After a fresh coat of paint, they'll look brand new. You won't throw off the balancer by blasting it....you're just removing rust and paint. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7121
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 05:54 pm: |
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For temp switches, I use "fan switches" sold by Jeggs or Summit Racing (on line). I put 200 'F switches in the motor and 160 'F ones in the manifolds. These are heavy duty automotive items with nice connectors.
Jeff |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 8
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 11:33 pm: |
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so i had the pulleys and balancer blasted, the pulleys are all pitted (as expected) the question is that the inner rim where the belt sits is also pitted were was once smooth from the belt, question is will that cause a problem holding the belt and not slip? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7145
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:35 am: |
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It might work even better!
Jeff |
Freshwater Fred
Advanced Member
Username: fred70
Post Number: 202
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 09:43 am: |
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Re; "the pulleys are all pitted"
Depending on how pitted, I've seen that result in chewing up the belts , and leaving rubber dust all over the bottom of the hull, stringers, and front of the engine.
You'll know if you have to readjust the tension because the belts are being eaten away.
If your concerned about yours, you're probably at the "time for replacements".
Fred 156-M |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 9
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 10:44 pm: |
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Today i started on the exhaust manifolds, cleaned them up real good, removed the plugs, question is before replacing what should i use on the threads, plumbing Pipe dope? another problem arised on the block, they must have missed plugging the attached hole on the rebuild im contacting rapidomarine but i dont want to have to ship it back, any suggestions? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 118
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 11:59 pm: |
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No worries Tony, that hole is for the dipstick tube.
Re: the plugs, are you referring to the exhaust studs that go into the heads or the drain plugs on the manifold itself?
If head studs, put silicone on both studs on the far ends of each head.
If manifold plugs....I don't put anything on mine. However, if you want to use something, make sure it's high-temp.
Hope that helps. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7157
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 06:44 am: |
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For the 1/4 NPT drain plugs in the motor, risers and manifolds, I use brass hex type (with the same wrench size for consistency) and no sealer. I put them in just tight enough to seal. They do not leak, and brass makes for easy removal(vs. steel).
Jeff |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 10
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 11:02 am: |
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Jet,
On the orignal motor that hole is sealed with lead of some sort. the dipstick for me is mounted to the oil pan. This hole isnt theraded either. still waiting on rapido to call me back |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 119
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 01:15 pm: |
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Hmmm....I'm not familiar with the dipstick mount on the oil pan. If I were in your shoes, I might consider either plugging the oil pan mount or, if that's too difficult, picking up a salvage pan. I'd rather mess around with plugging an easily-replaceable oil pan vs. a fresh long block. You could pick up a salvage tube and dipstick while you were at it.....assuming that the current one one fit.
The hole in the block shouldn't be threaded. The dipstick tube has a neck (an inch or two in length) that inserts down into the hole. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 11
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 01:26 pm: |
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Jet,
So that now brings in to question is the pan that i have the correct pan, i say that because the gasket replacement that comes with the kit has tabs on both ends of the round seals under both ends of teh crank and no hols in the pan for them. Even in teh rebuild book that I think you sugested i get it shoudl some tyoe of holes in teh pan for teh gasket to seat properly |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 120
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 01:49 pm: |
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T - between the plugged hole on the block and what you're describing with the pan, I would theorize that, somewhere along the line, someone replaced that oil pan....with who knows what.
To my knowledge, there are only two variations on the 318 marine pans.....one that has the two plug holes (like the gasket you've got) and one that has numerous plug holes (6 maybe?) going all the way accross those half-circle seals. The fact that yours has none is suspect.
Jeff may be able weigh in on pan variations through the history of the LM. However, that dipstick hole in the block is standard to all 318 castings.....so that's not the anomaly in this case.
I'd focus your efforts on finding a new pan. It'll be eaiser than finding a gasket for the current pan, plugging the block hole, etc. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 02:11 pm: |
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This is strange to say the least, both old motors have the same pan and the same plugged hole. Its a 79 318. so i really cant see why they would have swapped the pan on both. What i will say it thats a strange location for the dipstick right in front of the gas pump like that. A pan is going to cost quite a few $$$$ |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 121
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 02:30 pm: |
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Well, maybe you should start by making a trip to NAPA to see if they can track down a gasket that'll fit your existing pan. If they do, here's how I'd go about plugging that hole.....
Measure the hole and find a tap that's BARELY larger. Tap the hole and plug it with a bolt that corresponds to the tap's thread size (same concept as the engine block plugs). I know I'm stating the obvious but, if you go this route, do the tapping before you put the oil pan on and make sure you keep an eye on the shavings.
The emphasis on "BARELY" might allow you, or someone else, to still insert a dipstick tube into that hole in the future....with a little bit of sealer. |
Joseph J Levelis
Member
Username: joe_l
Post Number: 27
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 04:56 pm: |
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If you have a 79 chrysler build inboard marine 318 you probably have an cast aluminum oil pan.
They used stamped metal pans for outdrive engines and auto engines. It will have threaded bosses on the L & R side for a dip stick. you can use eithe side, whichever works for you.It takes a special gasket set. PN OS 30520M.
(Victor Reinz)
There are no holes in the pan for the end seals. They just fit into machined grooves in the pan.
The hole in the block was for the automotive or outdrive version engine, dip stick.
You can just knock out the core plug from the inside of old block and reinstall it in the new block.
You could also take a 5/16 bolt with sealant and install from the outside.
Joe |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 04:57 pm: |
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spoke to rapido, look liek it was a dipstick tube but they need a better pick to get me the right plug. What are the odds of pushing out teh old plug and using that ??? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 122
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 05:20 pm: |
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Based on the fact that they told you they need a better picture, I wouldn't hold your breath for Rapido getting you a plug. All 318 blocks are the same casting.....so, knowing that you're talking about the dipstick hole, all they'd need to do is look at another block (which I'm guessing they have!).
If you think you can get the plug out of the old one....go for it. |
jim piersol
Member
Username: sammi
Post Number: 83
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 05:49 pm: |
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What bothers me is the rust around the hole. If the block was cleaned/magnafluxed etc why all the corrosion so fast? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 123
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 06:34 pm: |
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They may block that hole when painting....in which case, the raw cast iron would show rust pretty quickly.
It also wouldn't surprise me if, in this economy, some of these engines are sitting on the shelf for a while. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 14
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 11:38 am: |
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all good points, well im on the hunt today for that plug and the gasket. Thanks all for the help. Im sure ill be back with more questions tonight |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 15
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:57 pm: |
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No luck with that part # from above. 3 places and non of them could reference it. If i cut the tabs off the gasket i have will it work? taking a chance on a leak? |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 26
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 05:33 pm: |
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That is the same on My 440s there is a non threaded hole on either side of the block and the dip stick drops in and the other side has a drive in plug there is not enough pressure in the pan to blow any plug out if it is tapped in by a hammer. My thoughts |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 27
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 05:38 pm: |
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Before I sent my 440s to Jasper I took out my plugs because I figured I would never see them again. They drove out very easy from the back side and I was able to reuse them and I added a little siclicone |
Mark Ferguson
Member
Username: shogun
Post Number: 28
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 05:43 pm: |
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FYI i have aluminum pans and be very careful when you tighten the bolts , I made the mistake of overtighten the bolts and it cracked the flang at every bolt. My pans have a oil splash pan in side so I have to use two gaskets. and with all that cork its easy to overtighten them |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 16
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:15 am: |
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got the plug out in one peice with the old motor hanging upside down then wracking the crap out of it with a screwdriver, put some gasket seal and it poped in the new block like a charm. I still cant find my oil pan seal some one has to have this guys. The book says 30lbs torq on the bolts, too much? |
David Kain
Advanced Member
Username: hurrikain
Post Number: 149
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:32 am: |
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I'm sorry I just happened to rad you message.. What seal are you looking for? and do you know the part number?
Dave |
David Kain
Advanced Member
Username: hurrikain
Post Number: 150
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:34 am: |
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that should say read, not rad... LOL |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 17
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:38 am: |
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Finally found the correct gasket. Partman.com has been really good on the Chrysler parts. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 18
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:39 am: |
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Joe L was dead on with the pan, all of the other suppliers were specking the stamped steel pan. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 20
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 01:08 pm: |
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Does any one know how to identify the Tube that i believe is for oil presure, it screws to the block next to the distrbuitor and the other end to where all of the electronics are connected to. |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 124
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 08:32 pm: |
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Hey T - you're correct that the oil pressure sending unit screws into the block next to the dist. I'm not sure about the "tube" you're referring to. Your engine is a later model than mine so maybe it has a different sending system.
I have a "standard", oil pressure sending unit. It screws into the block and a signal wire is connected to it.....similar to a temp sensor. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 22
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 11:46 pm: |
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here are 2 pics, one is the tube for the block that goes in to the unit in the other picture. not sure what all of this does??  |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7181
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 07:25 am: |
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Oil pressure goes to two places: the oil pressure gage, and the engine alarm system.
If that hose is like mine were, its rotten and ready to fail. I replaced mine with 1/8 " nylon tubing from an oil gage kit (any good hardware store.
Jeff |
David Kain
Advanced Member
Username: hurrikain
Post Number: 151
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 07:37 am: |
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If you want the correct hose we have them available. They aren't cheap at $67.30 but we do have them. See the attached picture. Dave  |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 24
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 11:01 am: |
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i cant seem to get the hose off of the brass fitting as shown. The oil sensor screws in to the brass fitting so im not sure if its one peice?? |
Joseph J Levelis
Member
Username: joe_l
Post Number: 28
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 03:15 pm: |
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Tony,
On your year engine the oil press hose should go from the block to the electrical panel support fitting.
The item in your rh picture.
On the support you will have the oil pressure sender, the large can with one terminal and a smaller pressure switch with two terminals.
the pressure switch is normally open and closes with increasing oil pressure and feeds 12V to the voltage regulator. If you are using a single wire alt. you can do away with the pressure switch.
You can replace the hose as Jeff suggested with 2 1/8 pipe to 1/4 hose fittings, a small setion of hose and clamps.
Joe |
gene dandelet
New member
Username: pennyan
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Friday, November 27, 2009 - 05:35 pm: |
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Tony, looks like youhave the exact 318 setup that I have, I'll get you some pics on that hose connection locations, also your question about the dipstick hole on the block and oilpan,I filled the location on the block with a tappered rubber plug tapped into the hole about a 1/2 inch then filled the rest of the way with epoxy, searched all over for a metal plug could not find one that worked. I puchased a rapido 318 going on 3 years now and no problems |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7195
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2009 - 06:58 am: |
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Cost of nylon oil pressure hose kit with all the fittings: Under 10 bucks.
Satisfaction that you've fixed the problem permanently and saved a bundle: Priceless.
Jeff |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 25
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2009 - 12:16 pm: |
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so guys I'm on the wiring harness, there seems to be a resistor of some sort between the one wire alternator any idea what the reason behind this is? |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 26
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2009 - 12:17 pm: |
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gene,
Im glad to hear positive feedback on the motor from rapido. Im almost done with the rebuild and about to drop it back in next week i hope. What boat is yours out of? |
gene dandelet
New member
Username: pennyan
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, November 28, 2009 - 10:38 pm: |
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hey Tony, I have a 1978 pennyan 23ft sportfisher w/flybridge with the rapido 318 and a new edelbrock, hitting wot at 3500 rpm's |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 28
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - 11:31 am: |
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so does any one have any ideas on that resistor? |
PF Herzog
Member
Username: peter_h
Post Number: 7
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - 04:48 pm: |
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Could a noise suppressor but it looks too small. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 31
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 09:10 pm: |
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can any one tell me how RPM's are clocked on the motor? i mean i have the tach but not sure where it gets the reading from? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 133
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Monday, December 07, 2009 - 10:33 am: |
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Ignition coil. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 33
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 04:01 pm: |
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Guys,
Im at the point where i can finally try to start up the rebuild. Its not yet in the boat and i want to test it before i spend all teh time putting it back in to then have to rip out if there is a problem. Any suggestions on what to look out for and if its a good idea to do out of teh boat? A friend of mine said that i realy shoudl have some type of load on it?? Thoughts? |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 134
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, December 10, 2009 - 07:52 pm: |
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Tony - no need for a load on the motor.
As far as running it out of the boat.....unless you have a running-stand, with a full set of external guages (tach, temp, oil pressure, etc.) and good cooling delivery, the very most I'd consider doing is simply turning it over to confirm that it runs.
In addition, the cam break-in process should really begin with the first firing. It's okay to fire it up briefly, a couple of times, to tweak the carb, get it to idle, etc. but.....once you "officially" get it fired up and running, you should really be prepared to run it straight through the 20-30 minute break-in period.
Timing and fine tuning should come after the cam break-in.
Make sure you use a good race or "break in" oil that's loaded with zinc.
Good luck. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7231
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Friday, December 11, 2009 - 01:11 pm: |
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I garage run motors by hanging them from a chain fall while also blocking them from below. They don't move, even if you rev the hell out of them.
Jeff |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 35
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 10:16 am: |
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i was going to strap it in the back of my pickup and fire it up. Im going to take it to a shop to see if they will have some gagues to put on it with it just get it to turn over. |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 136
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 10:46 am: |
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If you're just firing it to see if it turns over, you'll be fine strapping it in the back of your truck sans gauges.
If there are any speed shops in your area, you may find one that has a running stand w/gauges, etc....and you could do the full cam break in right on the stand. Unfortunately, the weather in the northeast means that you probably won't find someone who's willing to let you rig up a raw water cooling set up.....which would mean either soaking the floor of their shop or turning their parking lot into a skating rink. |
Tony
Member
Username: amantinori
Post Number: 36
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 11:29 am: |
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So do i take a chance and let the marina drop it in the boat and let them fire it up with a hose? I mean im almost positive i put it together 100% correctly. Ill see if i can find a shop that will test it, im in north Jersey if any one has any locations they know of. |
Buehler Jet
Advanced Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 137
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 11:51 am: |
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I think it all boils down to your relationship with the marina, how much you trust them and whether they'll let you be somewhat involved in the process (assuming that's what you want).
If you're confident in the job you've done, going straight to the marina will definitely save you a lot of running around. Even though there's not much to running an engine on a hose, the marina's going to be a lot more familiar with that process than a speed shop. They're also better qualified to set the timing, etc.....assuming you'll have them do that as well.
Also keep in mind that your marina should have the ability to fire the engine out of the boat....so you could request that they do that first. |
