| Author |
Message |
    
robert volk
New member
Username: bobv
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 04:41 pm: | 
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I have a chrysler 318 marine engine and I need a set of distributor springs.Anyone know where to find a set?
Thanks
Bob |
bobby reid
Member
Username: dodgetkboy78
Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 01:09 pm: |
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What kind of distributer? (Brand) |
robert volk
New member
Username: bobv
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 01:22 pm: |
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prestolite electronic |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 707
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 01:51 pm: |
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Be very careful if you plan to do this without the aid of a distributor machine. Whether Chrysler, GM, Ford, Volvo.... or ???
Maybe read these threads.
http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39691
http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39211 |
Dennis Bartkowiak
Member
Username: 76luhrs
Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 08:25 am: |
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Robert, I also needed these springs for Prestolite. They are no longer availible, tried different parts from Jegs and Summit,no luck. If you have a shop locally they should be able to tweak a set to match your old springs. Machine was out of service at the shop I went to, so I just bought new distrib. (Pertronix)( parts availibility) |
mrpops
Advanced Member
Username: mrpops
Post Number: 184
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 09:58 am: |
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go to a hot rod shop and get a pack of generic springs and start changing them till you get the right advance reading at wot |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 711
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 10:31 am: |
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Quote: "go to a hot rod shop and get a pack of generic springs and start changing them till you get the right advance reading at wot"
No offense, but this is not accurate nor safe information to follow! I'd rather have one member upset with me, than several who followed this suggestion and ended up with burned pistons!
The correct advance curve and limit must be achieved for this. Best to have this performed by a pro and one who has access to, and knowledge of the operation of a distributor machine, IMO.
Advance Curve and TAT for a marine gasser is just too darn important to not do correctly!
Incorrect spark lead and/or detonation can kill a marine gasser in a NY heart beat!
See your OEM manual for the Advance Curve and TA specs.
. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6985
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 06:12 am: |
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Hate to be disagreeable (really!) but spark advance on a boat engine isn't that critical compared to automotive applications. Why? The motor is either in trolling mode--minimal advance--or on plane--full advance. Unlike a car/ truck, there's little going on in between those two rpm ranges.
So, long as the advance comes all the way out above 2,000 rpms (but not below), then it'll work just fine.
Jeff |
robert volk
New member
Username: bobv
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 08:42 am: |
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I agree with Jeff on the curve. I did try different springs and am not satisfied with the results. I am getting full advance at 3,000 rpms (38 degrees)
The heavier springs that I tried will not give me enough advance. If I have to send this distributor out for new springs I would just rather buy a new pertronix dist. priced @ about 240.00.
I have a few more springs to try If no success I will get a brand new dist and be done. I was hoping to find some original springs and quit taking apart the dist. But no luck!
thanks
bob |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 717
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 09:29 am: |
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Quote: "but spark advance on a boat engine isn't that critical compared to automotive applications. Why? The motor is either in trolling mode--minimal advance--or on plane--full advance. Unlike a car/ truck, there's little going on in between those two rpm ranges."
I'm going to be blatant about this and with no apology being offered...... (other than to say Fastjeff, I don't like to lock horns with any good man)
So, please.... no offense what-so-ever, although you may find that my comment may not sound very kind!
So just imagine that we're all sitting around drinking a cup of coffee and discussing this! 
I absolutely and fully disagree with that statement and with posting a suggestion like this on any marine forum. 
We have people who may be reading and practicing this and I think that there's an unwritten responsibility that we "techy people" be as accurate here as possible.
Now.... that being said, your statement regarding the "two" RPM ranges makes some sense..... if this were the case, I'd be much more inclined to agree!
However, there is no coast time as there is with an auto scenario. A marine engine's work load, and the dreaded "Detonation" (that can be so destructive), will suggest that this can be most dangerous at the RPM range below the prescribed full out ignition advance RPM...... an RPM, by the way, that we may sustain for a short duration!
As you know, detonation damage can occur almost silently and in very short order.
IMO, this is why the proper curve and limit must be used.
Again Jeff, I have no dog in any fight here, much less with you...... other than to debunk misinformation as to hopefully prevent someone from undergoing detonation damage.
Quote: "I am getting full advance at 3,000 rpms (38 degrees)"
Bob, I am curious and would like to see your OEM ignition advance curve data.
38* full in by 3K rpm is very strong and early, IMO.
I'd suggest that any of us spend the few extra dollars necessary and have a shop put our distributor on a machine and set to the OEM curve and limit! Tweak some only if you know what you are doing.
And paaaaleeeeeeeeze.... not only set your BASE ignition timing, but also and always check your TAT (total advance timing) with a good ole strobe type light... non-digital advance mode!!!! (we want Real Time and in Real Degrees)
It is not difficult to do! It does require that your harmonic balancer be properly marked off!
Pass the cream and sugar, please!
. |
mrpops
Advanced Member
Username: mrpops
Post Number: 186
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 09:57 am: |
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'38*at 3000 is early"is wrong my book says full advance at 3000 |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 718
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 09:59 am: |
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'38*at 3000 is early"is wrong my book says full advance at 3000
Which engine, and by chance is this info from a Seloc or Clymers manual? |
mrpops
Advanced Member
Username: mrpops
Post Number: 187
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 10:02 am: |
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crusader350[454] clymers |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6998
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 10:06 am: |
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Robert: I'd be worried about preignition with 38 degrees advance--that's way too much for a Chrysler. About 26 to 27 degrees max at 2,800 rpms is more likely and safe. Drag racers use 35 to 40 degrees, but they are making flash horsepower, not continuous horsepower.
Ricardo: Ever time a modern outboard? The good ones have electronic spark advance, and guess when they go to FULL advance? Just above idle. And they STAY there until you idle back down. Think about that.
Jeff |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 719
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 10:34 am: |
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Jeff, we are in the "MarineEngine.com » Chrysler Inboard and Sterndrive »" topic = Distributor springs»!
This thread is regarding the Chrysler V-8 engine ignition advance specs!
I agree with you re; "26 to 27 degrees max at 2,800 rpms is more likely and safe."
This is why I suggested that this info may be from a Seloc or Clymers....
There are just too many errors in these manuals for us to trust specs from them!!!!
As for TAT, it helps greatly to know the build of the engine as well. A Q/E piston/head vs the fully dished piston with a wedge design combustion chamber, for example.
If no Q/E, then yes.... hold the TA back some and increase the full in RPM some.
. |
robert volk
Member
Username: bobv
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 01:30 pm: |
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Ok here goes the only curve i could find was on aftermarket distributors. pertronix distributors are timed as follows 9 degrees @ 1000 rpms 15 degrees @ 2000 rpms 19 degrees @ 3000rpms 23 degrees @ 4000rpms.
I have no idea what the factory recommends but mallory and pertronix are similar. When checking with a strobe light It appears to have 38 advance degrees at 3000rpms I Have one set of original springs i will install and check the advance.
It is impossible to see the timing mark on the balancer the timing must be done at the flywheel with the digital strobe light. Thanks BV |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7002
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 01:59 pm: |
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..."23 degrees @ 4000rpms. " That and an initial 5 degrees BTDC equals a safe 28 degrees. Sounds about right, but it can be all in below 3,000 rpmms without damage. Mine is.
Jeff |
Robert Volk
Member
Username: bobv
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 02:11 pm: |
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Thanks Jeff I did forget to deduct the 5 degrees initial timing this would still make timing 33 degrees @ 3000
Bob V. |
Ricardo E.
Advanced Member
Username: ricardomarine_vp
Post Number: 720
Registered: 03-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 02:25 pm: |
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Can anyone show us OEM specs for the Chrysler 318 marine operating under 38* of ignition lead @ 3k rpm?
**********************************************
An OEM "curve" (shown in graph form) may show distributor advance ONLY.
In this case, yes..... you must add BASE (initial) to these numbers.
If looking up OEM TA specs "as per OEM manual"...., they may show ignition advance which will include BASE (initial).
Don't confuse the two of these!
This is why seeing your TA in REAL TIME, and in REAL DEGREES is important.
I would never risk setting timing using a digitally advancing light!
I want to see this in REAL DEGREES and in REAL TIME!
You light could be off, or you may misinterpret!
While some of you may Foo Foo this, TA is extremely important and critical for a marine gaser.
. |
