| Author |
Message |
    
Kent Wooldridge
New member
Username: dbatopsecret
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 08:29 pm: | 
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I just bought a '77 Trojan 30 with twin chrysler 318's. On the sea trial, we got a max of 2200 rpm, on both engines, with a top speed of 9.5 to 10 kts. All else with the craft was acceptable, price considered, so I bought it. Original props. I have read this forum quite a bit in the 3 weeks since I bought it. My question is, when you start the motors, how long should you wait to see water flow in the exhaust. I am afraid of waiting too long and damaging motors. Also, when checking timing advance, should this be done under load? |
Peter McWilliams
Member
Username: pete31
Post Number: 70
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 09:30 pm: |
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those motors should spin up to at least 4000 rpm with a speed in excess of 30 mph, as for the water from the exhaust?, you should see some within 30 seconds, depending on what kind of mufflers the boat has you might hear the exhaust note change, mine take a few seconds to fill with water then the exhaust gets a little quieter, timing is best done with a light with advance adjustment, can be done at the dock, you need to make sure your getting the full distributor advance |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6935
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 06:47 am: |
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Was that boat in the water all summer? If so, it could have a bottom and props coated with slime and barnacles. Way too slow.
Frankly, I wouldn't have touched it unless it could at least plane off and make 3,000 rpms.
You might have bought trouble, there, pardner.
Jeff |
Vernon Hamilton
Member
Username: mickeydd
Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 11:51 am: |
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Kent congrats on the new purchase. I have 32' Trojan 1978. I have had good luck with my twin 318's. I agree with Jeff alittle slow, I'd have a look underneath her. As far as the water. I agree with Peter, mines the same way after a few seconds water should be out the exhaust. It will change also when more water enters, for ex when the thermos open up. Mine even sounds better then.318's are tuff just rem liquids, liquids liquids..... they needs that. Enjoy when you do get her in
Vernon |
topsecret
New member
Username: dbatopsecret
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 02:50 pm: |
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Thanks Gentlemen, For the price, if she never left the dock, she's a fine floating cabin!! She had a new bottom job, cleaned props, and a hull survey this past July. Also had new interior upholstry, headliner, floors, etc this summer. A/C is new this summer, nice and cold. I've replaced a few bulbs and corroded elec. connections. }I'm gonna tweak the motors, new plugs, wires, filters, timing, etc. and see what I come up with. I may repower her, if needed... I'll still be good on the overall cost. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6940
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 06:54 am: |
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Okay. From what you said, I'm convinced that your distributors are not advancing the spark. You can check this with a timing light: Buzz the motors to 3,000 rpms and see if the mark moves. It should move dramatically, then RETURN to the initial 5' BTDC position. If (when) it doesn't, do this:
1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
2. Put a few drops of light oil right below the rotor, followed bu a squirt of penetrating oil.
3. Reinstall the rotor, then put a song on the radio.
4. Exercise the the rotor by moving it back and forth, back and forth, back and forth until the entire song has ended. Don't cheat! Do it for several minutes.
5. Reinstall the cap and fire her up.
It's common for the advance mechanism of these engines to stick over time--mine did it over one winter. The Fastjeff Repair Method should cure it.
Jeff |
David Gee
Member
Username: redpaint
Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 09:53 am: |
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Sweet,,,,, Thanks for that Jeff. I will be trying that this weekend. Mine will not go over 3K. If that fixes my motors I will mail you a beer. But only one !! |
topsecret
New member
Username: dbatopsecret
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 09:55 am: |
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I am AMAZED that y'all don't charge for this. Thanks Jeff. I'm probably gonna check this out tonite. I think a gentleman earlier mentioned using a certian timing lite with advance?
I still have a fear about water flow. How much water should you see from the exhaust? Like a gurgle splash, or a stream? My exhaust pipes are about 1/2 below the waterline.
Is the only impeller right at the water pump on the motor? Or is there another impeller before there? I'm tempted to replace just for better sleep at nite. I put water PRESSURE gauges on the outboards on my fishing boat, and felt alot better about that. My new purchase only has water TEMP gauges.}} |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6947
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 10:19 am: |
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David: Let me know how you make out.
Top: With the exhaust half buried like that you can't expect to see much flow. Mine are not and I see a stream about an inch in diameter.
After frying a motor years ago when the water flow got cut off, I designed and installed low water pressure alarms (sound familar?) for both motors. Now, I never plane off without first clicking the sweitches on and listening to the beep! go away as the rpms rise above 2,000.
Jeff
PS: I have details if anyone is interested. |
dan brahms
Member
Username: dbrahms
Post Number: 43
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 04:59 pm: |
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low water press. alarms...yes, please post details!
thanks |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6951
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 09:11 pm: |
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Here's a video link:
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/Fastjeff/?action=view¤t=LWPAlarm-SlipTest.flv
And here's schematic:
Jeff |
topsecret
Member
Username: dbatopsecret
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 10:28 pm: |
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Well, Jeff, I cozied up to my 318's with a timing lite and new plugs and wires this afternoon. I found the indicator bar for timing to be rusted off both motors. The line was visible on one flywheel (port) and the other wheel (stbd) was quite rusted. I didn't turn it to find the line.
I'll be thinking towards repowering and will start a new thread. I think this has been a great thread, thanks for all y'alls input!! |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6960
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 06:42 am: |
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..."I found the indicator bar for timing to be rusted off both motors"
Did you look for the other timing pointer at the flywheel (below a rubber flap held by a 1/4 inch bolt)?
Jeff |
noel skwiot
Member
Username: noelct
Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2007
| | Posted on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 07:05 am: |
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"And here's schematic:"
Jeff,
I'm interested in your switch setup, however I think that I'd prefer a gauge as well as the audible. What is the pressure range? Low psi, or inches of H2O?
By the way, your enginges sound sa-weeeet!
Thanks, Noel. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6965
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 12:34 pm: |
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Thanks. 0 to 15 psi will handle the water pressure.
Jeff
PS: Since one of my engines (raw water cooled) destroyed itself in under 30 seconds when the water was cut of (reason never determined), this is why you need an audible alarm. Even me--annal as I am at eyeballing the gages--could miss it. |
Buehler Jet
Member
Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 90
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 06:15 pm: |
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Very cool set up Jeff. |
