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318 casting numbers

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Chrysler Inboard and Sterndrive » 318 casting numbers « Previous Next »

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jim piersol
Member
Username: sammi

Post Number: 71
Registered: 05-2007
Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I bought a project boat with a 1977 318 chrysler. The block is cracked and a guy I know has a 318 block that he wants out of his garage( read as free). Do the casting numbers have to match exactly or are some interchangeable? And... by the time I pay a mechanic to check the internals and change out the block, would it be more cost effective to get a long block.
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Buehler Jet
Member
Username: bogdenz

Post Number: 61
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The casting numbers do not have to match. 318 blocks are all the same.

To your other point/question, however, unless you're doing it yourself or have a very good relationship with the mechanic (i.e., cheap), the long block is probably going to win out.

Even if the guy with the block can speak to it's history (and you trust him), you're taking a risk if you don't have it tested for cracks (magnafluxed) and, at the very least, have the cylinders honed (if not bored over). That stuff's not a big deal...it just adds up in dollars.

Even if rebuilding is a little cheaper, another thing to consider is that the long block will come with a warranty. A mechanic's rebuild will not not.....because they can, somewhat legitimately, argue that you're giving them used parts to work from.

Depending on what type of boat you're building, there can be some performance advantages to custom-assembling a new motor (pistons, etc.). But even if that's applicable to your situation, I'd buy the long-block and rebuild the old engine on the side. Take the free block, get a cheap engine stand, a good rebuild book, take your time and do it yourself......while enjoying the new, trouble-free long block.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 6822
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 06:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If you have a FWCooled setup, it might be worth trying. But if yours is RWCooled, the freeze plugs will need to be brass, and marine head gaskets used during assembly.

Rebuilt long blocks for Chryslers are actually cheaper than Chevies--under 1$1,800 if you shop around--and it's gonna run better. it's your choice.

Jeff
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jim piersol
Member
Username: sammi

Post Number: 72
Registered: 05-2007
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

So if I go the long block route I see the 360 and 318 are the same price. Is a 318 block the same as a 360? In other words, would all my peripherals from my 318 attach to the 360 block. Silly not to go for 30 or so extra HP if the price is the same.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 6838
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 06:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I'm afraid not. The flywheel, oil pan, damper and a few other things are different. (The 318 is internally balanced where the 360 is externally.) Still you could locate what you need from a junker 360 and bolt 'em on. Everything else fits.

Jeff
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jim piersol
Member
Username: sammi

Post Number: 73
Registered: 05-2007
Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks Jeff

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