|
| Author |
Message |
   
jim piersol
Member Username: sammi
Post Number: 71 Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 01:46 pm: |
|
I bought a project boat with a 1977 318 chrysler. The block is cracked and a guy I know has a 318 block that he wants out of his garage( read as free). Do the casting numbers have to match exactly or are some interchangeable? And... by the time I pay a mechanic to check the internals and change out the block, would it be more cost effective to get a long block. |
   
Buehler Jet
Member Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 61 Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 04:15 pm: |
|
The casting numbers do not have to match. 318 blocks are all the same. To your other point/question, however, unless you're doing it yourself or have a very good relationship with the mechanic (i.e., cheap), the long block is probably going to win out. Even if the guy with the block can speak to it's history (and you trust him), you're taking a risk if you don't have it tested for cracks (magnafluxed) and, at the very least, have the cylinders honed (if not bored over). That stuff's not a big deal...it just adds up in dollars. Even if rebuilding is a little cheaper, another thing to consider is that the long block will come with a warranty. A mechanic's rebuild will not not.....because they can, somewhat legitimately, argue that you're giving them used parts to work from. Depending on what type of boat you're building, there can be some performance advantages to custom-assembling a new motor (pistons, etc.). But even if that's applicable to your situation, I'd buy the long-block and rebuild the old engine on the side. Take the free block, get a cheap engine stand, a good rebuild book, take your time and do it yourself......while enjoying the new, trouble-free long block. |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6822 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 06:29 am: |
|
If you have a FWCooled setup, it might be worth trying. But if yours is RWCooled, the freeze plugs will need to be brass, and marine head gaskets used during assembly. Rebuilt long blocks for Chryslers are actually cheaper than Chevies--under 1$1,800 if you shop around--and it's gonna run better. it's your choice. Jeff |
   
jim piersol
Member Username: sammi
Post Number: 72 Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 09:17 pm: |
|
So if I go the long block route I see the 360 and 318 are the same price. Is a 318 block the same as a 360? In other words, would all my peripherals from my 318 attach to the 360 block. Silly not to go for 30 or so extra HP if the price is the same. |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6838 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 06:33 am: |
|
I'm afraid not. The flywheel, oil pan, damper and a few other things are different. (The 318 is internally balanced where the 360 is externally.) Still you could locate what you need from a junker 360 and bolt 'em on. Everything else fits. Jeff |
   
jim piersol
Member Username: sammi
Post Number: 73 Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 04:12 pm: |
|
Thanks Jeff |
|
|
|
Product Categories |
| Engine Parts · By Brand |
| Engine Manuals · By Brand |
| Books |
| General Repair and Maint. |
| Care and Repair |
| · Adhesive and Sealants |
| · Bottom Cleaners |
| · Cleaners Wax and Polish |
| · Mops Brushes and Sponges |
| Covers and Tops |
| · Bimini Tops · Hardware |
| · Cover Accessories |
| · Motor Covers |
| · Universal Boat Covers |
| Electronics |
| · Gauges and Compasses |
| · Mounts and Accessories |
| Electrical |
| · Batteries & Chargers |
| · Battery Accessories |
| · Dockside Electrical |
| · Electrical Terminals |
| · Electrical Wire, Cable |
| · Fuses, Fuse Holders |
| · Switches |
| · Wire Ties, Clips, Tape |
| Fuel Systems |
| · Fuel Tanks |
| · Fittings, Fills, Vents |
| · Hose & Primer Bulbs |
| · Filters, Senders, Caps |
| Hardware |
| · Deck Cabin Hardware |
| · Molding and Rub Rails |
| · Rails and Fittings |
| · Snaps Shackles and Hooks |
| · Windshield Hardware |
| Lighting |
| · Cabin Lights · Light Bulbs |
| · Navigation Light Parts |
| · Navigation Lights |
| · Spotlights · Parts |
| Mooring and Dock |
| · Boat Fenders · Boat Hooks |
| · Buoys and Markers |
| · Deck Cleats · Dock Edging |
| · Dock Parts and De-Icers |
| · Fender Covers and Holders |
| · Keelshield / Toon-Tectors |
| · Ladders and Platforms |
| Prop / Trim /
Transom |
| · Jack Plates, Wedges |
| · Mounting Brackets |
| · Outboard Stands |
| · Trim Tabs, Stablizers |
| · Prop Nuts, Locks, Pins |
| · Propellers · Wrenches |
| Pumps |
| · Aerator Pumps |
| · Bilge Pumps |
| · Drain Plugs and Tubes |
| · Hose · Through Hull Fittings |
| Rope and Cordage |
| · Anchor Line · Dock Line |
| · Fender Line · Bulk Rope |
| · Shock Cord and Bungee |
| Safety Products |
| · Horns Bells and Whistles |
| · Mirrors |
| · Vents Blowers and Hose |
| Sanitation |
| · Fresh Water Pumps |
| · Marine Toilets |
| · Sanitation Chemicals |
| · Sanitation Pumps/Hose |
| · Water/Waste System Parts |
| Seating |
| · Deck Chairs and Tables |
| · Fishing Seats |
| · Lounge Seats |
| · Pontoon Furniture |
| · Seat Bases and Pedestals |
| Steering / Control |
| · Control
Boxes |
| · Control
Cables |
| · Hydraulic
Steering |
| · Mechanical
Steering |
| · Rigging · Steering
Wheels |
| Tools / Shop Supplies |
| · Lubricants & Additives |
| · Motor Flushers |
| · Tools & Test Equipment |
| Trailering |
| · Boat Guides/Motor Support |
| · Hitches Balls Couplers |
| · Rollers Brackets Springs |
| · Tires Wheels and Carriers |
| · Trailer Hubs & Bearings |
| · Trailer Jacks |
| · Trailer Wiring and Lighting |
| · Winches Straps Tie Downs |
| Manufacturer List |
|