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318 Block water passages

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Chrysler Inboard and Sterndrive » 318 Block water passages « Previous Next »

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George Robertons
Member
Username: number6

Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2009
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have a question

Could water left in a block's water passages over the winter cause the block to crack.

Thanks
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G. Harrington
Member
Username: bogdenz

Post Number: 57
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If it will most definitely cause it to crack.

Drain the block, exhaust, etc. from every possible location and run some RV coolant through it.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 6813
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

A few years ago I kept a count of cracked blocks on this site caused by poor winterizing: 26 plus. Yup, water will wreck a motor if allowed to freeze.


Jeff
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Jimmy Helms
New member
Username: jhelms

Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

jhelms, I like.so many others. have a heating problem. I have a 1981 318 Chrysler in my Skiff Craft. I have overhauled the raw water pump, installed a new engine water pump and replaced the thermostat with a 160 deg. and it still runs hot according to the guage. The manifolds are cool and I can still put my hands on the block and it won't burn me. Can anyone give me any more advice. I have only tested the engine with a Fake a Lake connection. Thakns
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 6827
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You might be okay, and your gage lying to you. Hard to keep your hand on anything over 140 'F, and that's cool.

Someone add my usual message on infrared temp gages here, please!

Jeff
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Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 910
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

RE: "replaced the thermostat with a 160 deg."

Was the existing t'stat a different value?
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dan brahms
Member
Username: dbrahms

Post Number: 49
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

are you losing coolant in the heat exchanger (if FWC)? check the levels from one cruise to the next. if the level drops, your heat exchanger may be corroded and mixing coolant with sea water and the running out the exhaust. That happened on my boat and it caused one motor to run 20degrees hotter than the other. never overheated big time but it did run a bit hotter.

gotta get my heat exchanger rebuilt.
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Dan James
Member
Username: greasemonkey

Post Number: 25
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

yeah, everybody go get a infared heat gun at lowes in the electricians dept its $50 and u can point it at just about everything except my eye and little babies
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7024
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Works great on cats and dogs!

Jeff
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jim piersol
Member
Username: sammi

Post Number: 81
Registered: 05-2007
Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I bought a boat at auction with the drain plugs in and freeze plugs laying in the bilge. So I suspected the motor was toast. Started it up and filled the oil pan with water in about 20 seconds. They can and will crack. I thought I had a cheap replacement when a marina owner took possesion of an abandoned twin engine houseboat with 318's with only 680hrs. Guess what, plugs were left in and the freeze plugs were laying in the bilge. My search continues.
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maach moe
New member
Username: maach

Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi,I have chrysler 1971 (250)didn't do winterization intill now,ther is any problem,or it still time to do it.thanks for the help any one.
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Freshwater Fred
Advanced Member
Username: fred70

Post Number: 218
Registered: 01-2009


Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

astoria NY.
its not looking good,, but your NOT going to get it done any sooner.
Say your prayers & get it done asap.

At least take the 1 on each side in the middle of the block out.
I can guarantee,.,, it won't make things worse.

Fred 156-M
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PF Herzog
Member
Username: peter_h

Post Number: 17
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If the engine is fresh water cooled (antifreeze) you don't need to drain the block, but you need to drain all parts that are exposed to raw water. That would include sea cock, sea strainer, raw water pump, heat exchanger (raw water side), exhaust manifolds, risers, elbows and mufflers.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7362
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You need to do more than just drain it, PF, for water will hide in low spots and...Ouch! next spring. For that reason a wise boat owner will run Pink Stuff through 'til he/she sees it coming out the exhaust. Mufflers, too, need to be freeze protected.

Jeff
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maach moe
New member
Username: maach

Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks a lot guys,for your help.

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maach moe
New member
Username: maach

Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Hi,can any one tel me the signification of this #, "model"
M360BWR19778
"serial#"
E-505237
"part#"
8/16/78H0134A it's chrysler.can you tel what year is the engine(250)
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Dan James
Member
Username: greasemonkey

Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2009


Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

marine 360 block
borg warner drive 1.91 to 1 ratio
Right hand rotation(counter rotator)
1978
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maach moe
Member
Username: maach

Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks a million,DAN JAMES
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Richard J. Pivarnik
Member
Username: dick_p

Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

FAST JEFF,
We talked before about my manifolds. Putting in new ones put I don't know how to install the water distribution tubes. Can you help me out.
Dick
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7571
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2010 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

First of all, do you have raw water cooled motor? And, if so, does the water come into the manifolds from the front? If so, I recommend leaving the tubes out. BUT if the water comes in low and near the back of the motor (as it was supposed to), then you have to use the tubes with the slots aimed toward the front of the motor.

Jeff
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Richard J. Pivarnik
Member
Username: dick_p

Post Number: 6
Registered: 01-2010
Posted on Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Jeff, My engines are in backwards because of the V-drives. Fresh water cooled by raw water. Water dumps at the front of the engines. I still don't know how to install the water distribution tubes. Can you help me??? Thanks Dick
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PF Herzog
Member
Username: peter_h

Post Number: 19
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Dick:
It's not as important where the water enters the manifold as where and how it exits. The tube is the exit. It pulls water from near the top of the manifold. This eliminates any air pockets that might occur and keeps the manifold flooded with water. Without the tube, the water would exit at the bottom of the manifold which could allow an air pocket to develop reducing the cooling capacity of the system.
Here's a link to Oscos explanation:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/osco_manifolds/catalog.html?http://www.marinee ngine.com/parts/osco_manifolds/index.htm

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