| Author |
Message |
   
George Robertons
Member Username: number6
Post Number: 4 Registered: 07-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 02:39 pm: |
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I have a question Could water left in a block's water passages over the winter cause the block to crack. Thanks |
   
G. Harrington
Member Username: bogdenz
Post Number: 57 Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 04:31 pm: |
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If it will most definitely cause it to crack. Drain the block, exhaust, etc. from every possible location and run some RV coolant through it. |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6813 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 01:25 pm: |
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A few years ago I kept a count of cracked blocks on this site caused by poor winterizing: 26 plus. Yup, water will wreck a motor if allowed to freeze. Jeff |
   
Jimmy Helms
New member Username: jhelms
Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 08:38 am: |
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jhelms, I like.so many others. have a heating problem. I have a 1981 318 Chrysler in my Skiff Craft. I have overhauled the raw water pump, installed a new engine water pump and replaced the thermostat with a 160 deg. and it still runs hot according to the guage. The manifolds are cool and I can still put my hands on the block and it won't burn me. Can anyone give me any more advice. I have only tested the engine with a Fake a Lake connection. Thakns |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 6827 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 10:21 am: |
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You might be okay, and your gage lying to you. Hard to keep your hand on anything over 140 'F, and that's cool. Someone add my usual message on infrared temp gages here, please! Jeff |
   
Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member Username: sandkicker
Post Number: 910 Registered: 06-2008
| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 11:16 am: |
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RE: "replaced the thermostat with a 160 deg." Was the existing t'stat a different value? |
   
dan brahms
Member Username: dbrahms
Post Number: 49 Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 07:15 pm: |
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are you losing coolant in the heat exchanger (if FWC)? check the levels from one cruise to the next. if the level drops, your heat exchanger may be corroded and mixing coolant with sea water and the running out the exhaust. That happened on my boat and it caused one motor to run 20degrees hotter than the other. never overheated big time but it did run a bit hotter. gotta get my heat exchanger rebuilt. |
   
Dan James
Member Username: greasemonkey
Post Number: 25 Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:02 pm: |
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yeah, everybody go get a infared heat gun at lowes in the electricians dept its $50 and u can point it at just about everything except my eye and little babies |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7024 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:15 am: |
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Works great on cats and dogs! Jeff |
   
jim piersol
Member Username: sammi
Post Number: 81 Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 10:15 pm: |
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I bought a boat at auction with the drain plugs in and freeze plugs laying in the bilge. So I suspected the motor was toast. Started it up and filled the oil pan with water in about 20 seconds. They can and will crack. I thought I had a cheap replacement when a marina owner took possesion of an abandoned twin engine houseboat with 318's with only 680hrs. Guess what, plugs were left in and the freeze plugs were laying in the bilge. My search continues. |
   
maach moe
New member Username: maach
Post Number: 1 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 06:53 pm: |
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Hi,I have chrysler 1971 (250)didn't do winterization intill now,ther is any problem,or it still time to do it.thanks for the help any one. |
   
Freshwater Fred
Advanced Member Username: fred70
Post Number: 218 Registered: 01-2009

| | Posted on Monday, January 11, 2010 - 07:21 pm: |
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astoria NY. its not looking good,, but your NOT going to get it done any sooner. Say your prayers & get it done asap. At least take the 1 on each side in the middle of the block out. I can guarantee,.,, it won't make things worse. Fred 156-M |
   
PF Herzog
Member Username: peter_h
Post Number: 17 Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 - 09:42 am: |
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If the engine is fresh water cooled (antifreeze) you don't need to drain the block, but you need to drain all parts that are exposed to raw water. That would include sea cock, sea strainer, raw water pump, heat exchanger (raw water side), exhaust manifolds, risers, elbows and mufflers. |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7362 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 - 01:59 pm: |
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You need to do more than just drain it, PF, for water will hide in low spots and...Ouch! next spring. For that reason a wise boat owner will run Pink Stuff through 'til he/she sees it coming out the exhaust. Mufflers, too, need to be freeze protected. Jeff |
   
maach moe
New member Username: maach
Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 - 12:18 am: |
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thanks a lot guys,for your help.
|
   
maach moe
New member Username: maach
Post Number: 3 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 09:50 pm: |
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Hi,can any one tel me the signification of this #, "model" M360BWR19778 "serial#" E-505237 "part#" 8/16/78H0134A it's chrysler.can you tel what year is the engine(250) |
   
Dan James
Member Username: greasemonkey
Post Number: 44 Registered: 08-2009

| | Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:08 pm: |
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marine 360 block borg warner drive 1.91 to 1 ratio Right hand rotation(counter rotator) 1978 |
   
maach moe
Member Username: maach
Post Number: 4 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 12:39 am: |
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thanks a million,DAN JAMES |
   
Richard J. Pivarnik
Member Username: dick_p
Post Number: 5 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:46 pm: |
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FAST JEFF, We talked before about my manifolds. Putting in new ones put I don't know how to install the water distribution tubes. Can you help me out. Dick |
   
Fastjeff
Senior Member Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7571 Registered: 09-2003

| | Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2010 - 09:30 am: |
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First of all, do you have raw water cooled motor? And, if so, does the water come into the manifolds from the front? If so, I recommend leaving the tubes out. BUT if the water comes in low and near the back of the motor (as it was supposed to), then you have to use the tubes with the slots aimed toward the front of the motor. Jeff |
   
Richard J. Pivarnik
Member Username: dick_p
Post Number: 6 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 09, 2010 - 09:51 am: |
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Jeff, My engines are in backwards because of the V-drives. Fresh water cooled by raw water. Water dumps at the front of the engines. I still don't know how to install the water distribution tubes. Can you help me??? Thanks Dick |
   
PF Herzog
Member Username: peter_h
Post Number: 19 Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - 01:18 pm: |
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Dick: It's not as important where the water enters the manifold as where and how it exits. The tube is the exit. It pulls water from near the top of the manifold. This eliminates any air pockets that might occur and keeps the manifold flooded with water. Without the tube, the water would exit at the bottom of the manifold which could allow an air pocket to develop reducing the cooling capacity of the system. Here's a link to Oscos explanation: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/osco_manifolds/catalog.html?http://www.marinee ngine.com/parts/osco_manifolds/index.htm |