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Bottom paint removal

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Chrysler Inboard and Sterndrive » Bottom paint removal « Previous Next »

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Jeff Levy
Member
Username: jeffsboat

Post Number: 29
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Would like to remove the bottom paint from my boat. I only use it in fresh water (came from salt water) and it has many layers of paint. anty good tricks to get this stuff off?
Thanks,
Jeff


26 PennYan
Twin 318's
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David J Kidd
Member
Username: scubadjk

Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2008
Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

heat gun
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Dan James
Member
Username: greasemonkey

Post Number: 23
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 01:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Try pressure washing first to get the loose off then rent a wet blast attachment from a tool rental place and about 10 bags of BX-8 blasting sand and do it up nice and fresh.U can hit the props and rudders but stay away from the stern tube were the shaft goes in the boat
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Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 903
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If you are going to sand blast the bottom, you run the risk of removing the gel coat as well if you aren't VERY carefull. If you do this you will need to barrier coat the bottom. There is a special "barrier coat paint" (not really a paint) you will need to use.

Last time I had to do this, I used a chemical remover "Peel a way". There is a marine version. There is also a non marine version sold at "big box hardware stores" that is the same stuff, only cheaper. There is a "non toxic" version that is suitable for fiberglass. Not cheap, but safe. A bit messy, however, you won't end up with fine flakes of bottom paint all over the place which can be an environmental (and legal) problem in some places.

Pressure wash ( mind where the old paint ends up) a good first step. Also a fast once over with a scraper to remove any big, loose chunks.
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Peter McWilliams
Member
Username: pete31

Post Number: 66
Registered: 04-2008
Posted on Monday, September 21, 2009 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

had mine done with crushed walnut shells ( don't laugh)company that did it guaranteed the gel coat would not be marked, even did the props & rudders & struts, got all the paint off, & the guy was done in a couple of hours, clean up was a breeze
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PF Herzog
New member
Username: peter_h

Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2009
Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Make sure your blaster has lots of experience blasting fiberglass boats. Also, if your boat has been kept in the water and not on the hard, be prepared to find lots of osmotic blisters in the gel coat. If so, they need to be faired and a two-part epoxy barrier coat must then be applied before A/F paint. My '77 Trojan F-32 looked like birdseye maple after blasting. A hull of that size can absorb hundreds of pounds of water and must be dried out and moisture-tested before repairs are started. Not all of the blisters pop out so the epoxy barrier coat also cements any "hanging chads" to the gel coat.
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Bjorn
Member
Username: bjorn

Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I would suggest to "pressure wash" with a machine which works with hot water, to start with.
( professional equipment normally ) I would assume this takes care of 90 percent of your old bottom paint. Be careful to follow local environmental laws/regulations - bottom paint - especially old paint - manufactured 5-10 years back contains/ed a lot of nasty stuff...
Personally I would be very, very, careful to sand blast - if so - it has to be done by a professional guy...
Then your hull has to be dried out - a process which in normal " room temperature " could take weeks. When the hull finally has been dried out - you have to add a two-part epoxy barrier - several layers - but again...the hull has to be dry otherwise you " build in moisture/water " into your hull...
Check the link : http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/boat_painting_guide/pdf/fibreglass/protect.pdf - I would also talk to the guys with sailboats - who races with their yachts.They normally spends a couple of hundred hours on the bottom of the boat...
Even if you will use you boat in fresh water from now on - I would say you need a bottom paint suitable for those conditions.
It would be a different story if we talked about a completely new boat....

}
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 6862
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 06:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Dry ice or soda blasting is getting very popular. Dry ice leaves minimal clean up but is expensive.

Jeff
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Jeff Levy
Member
Username: jeffsboat

Post Number: 30
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Just spoke with the mechanic at the marina where I store my boat for the winter and they are looking into Soda Blasting equipment for next year. Timing is everthing!
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larry barnes
Member
Username: lbarnes88

Post Number: 43
Registered: 04-2008
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If you don't live near Al Gore, blasting with Dry Ice (solid C02) is a great idea.
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Robert A. Fierro
Advanced Member
Username: sandkicker

Post Number: 924
Registered: 06-2008
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

RE: "they are looking into Soda Blasting equipment for next year. Timing is everthing!"

Take it from someone who spend decades on the "bleeding edge" of technology. You don't want to be someone's first project (or customer) unless you have no other alternative whatsoever.

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