360 Exh Manifold Replacement

Author Message   Kevin Braughton Visitor Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2008 - 01:59 pm:    Getting ready to tackle replacing my exhaust manifolds and elbows on both engines. I intend to use Osco parts which are currently on the engines. Any tips or advice? I read that you should be sure to drain the manifolds before removing, how do you accomplish that? Thanks in advance, Kevin 1980 34' Silverton   Fastjeff Senior Member Username: fastjeff Post Number: 4278 Registered: 09-2003 Posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 09:01 am:    Yes! If not, water will leak into the motor--and that includes the risers especially! There's drain plugs (9/16 socket) in the lower portion of the manifolds, and in the side of the elbows. Ignore the small drain plug at the bottom of the elbows--it won't come out anyhow. Another caution: If the manifold bolts don't come right off--and be careful here!--then DO NOT try to remove them! Drill or grind the heads off the bolts, then wedge (with wooden weges) the manifolds off the remains of the bolts. You can then work them out with Vise-Grips, penetrating oil and a bit of heat. But if you try to unscrew them and snap them off, it's drill and Easy Out time. Not good. Jeff   Kevin Braughton Visitor Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 02:39 pm:    Thanks. What about using permatex on the manifold and elbow gaskets? Should they be installed dry? Also, any approximation on replacement time (assuming bolts remove with ease and access to manifolds is reasonable)? My splash in date is rapidly approaching and I'm hoping to knock the job out in a weekends time. Thanks again.   B Fiesta Member Username: bfiesta Post Number: 5 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 08:13 pm:    I am in the process of putting on new manifolds on one of my LM318s (1977 31' Silverton Sedan). From what I've seen on the boards there are two schools of thought on using gasket adhesive. Dry (None at all) or wet (gasket adhesive). I am going to use an extremely thin coat on my gaskets. My motor is a 1976 and there is no way the castings (block or manifolds) are going to be flat and level. Luckily for me my manifolds and elbows came off without a lot of trouble. I sprayed the heck out of all my bolts with Kroil penetrating liquid (best stuff I found) the day before. Then sprayed again the day of. No broken bolts on the manifolds, yeah! Two broke on the elbow. Vise grips worked well. Took me between two to three hours by myself to get mine off. My only issue was getting (prying) the elbow detached from the exhaust pipe. Something to keep in mind is to make certain water won't leak through the exhaust pipe into the bilge! My new manifolds show up on Monday (shipping is taking six business days from the East Coast to Seattle area). Good luck! http://eastwood.resultspage.com/auto/kroil   Peter H Member Username: pfhlaw Post Number: 6 Registered: 05-2006 Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 11:33 am:    Kevin: The manifold exhaust gaskets may be stainless instead of mineral fiber. Mine were. If so, they have ridges that are designed to compress to conform to the uneven surfaces of the manifold and head. They should not be reused or you risk an exhaust leak. Here's a link to Hurikain's site: http://www.hurrikain.com/Chrysler-exhaust.htm It took me about 2 hours to remove the manifolds on one engine. The outboard side was hard to reach and the manifold/riser combo is VERY heavy. I used PB Blaster on the bolts/studs and broke off the heads on 2 bolts. Don't panic. When I removed the manifold (and the pressure on the bolt threads is released) I used a vice grips to remove the rest of the bolt. I replaced the old bolts with new grade 8 bolts. Cheap upgrade.   Fastjeff Senior Member Username: fastjeff Post Number: 4287 Registered: 09-2003 Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 01:09 pm:    Avoid any gasket sealer on manifold gaskets. THe stuff can plug the holes in the riser, where the water and exhaust meet, and cause all kinds of problems. Jeff

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