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Vacuum guage vs pulling plugs for eff...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Crusader Marine » Vacuum guage vs pulling plugs for efficiency check « Previous Next »

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steve hale
New member
Username: thelasthour

Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Can I use the vacuum guage readings at different RPM ranges to tune my edelbrock or do I have to pull the plugs and burn the ?X*& out of my fingers? My plugs are not easy to get to, I have limited access especially on a hot engine. I've made big gains in efficiency from your great input, especially you Jeff, but the edelbrock is still stock out of the box (worse case scenario right)?
Again boat is 29 phoenix, twin 350's, 10000 lbs, 18*22 props,1.88 borg warner. Current efficiency is exactly 1mpg. Optimal cruise 2750-3150.
Steve
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Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47

Post Number: 830
Registered: 09-2007


Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I dont see why not? I am in the process of doing the same thing right now. I have only just installed the hose fittings on the intake manifolds a few days ago. The 4 outboard plugs on each of my engines are a pain to get to and laying over the block to do so IS impossible when just even warm
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B-Man
Member
Username: belliswood

Post Number: 21
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

What an Idea, never thought of that. I have a vacume guage but how do you hook it up and what do you look for on the guage to tune the engine? What steps would you take and what would the guage reading be?

Barry
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diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave

Post Number: 523
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I've only heard this done at idle, no load. Where, you tune the carb screws for max vacuum. At any further throttle and loads, people use an oxygen sensor in the exhaust, or, even an EGT. I doubt a vacuum gauge is usable at cruise power for mixture tuning.
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Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47

Post Number: 832
Registered: 09-2007


Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I will agree However, I am still hoping to check vacuum at WOT to see if the CFM of the carb is on target
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7161
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

..."I am still hoping to check vacuum at WOT to see if the CFM of the carb is on target"

A scientist! The vacuum at WOT is practically zero. Hell, it IS zero!

Jeff
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Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47

Post Number: 833
Registered: 09-2007


Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 03:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Well....LETS HOPE or just under it
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7163
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 06:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Better have a really large increment gage, like 0 to 10 inches of vacuum full scale.


Jeff
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1911
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Close to but not zero. If it were zero, you'd have an ideal carb w/o any pressure drop.

The gauge is critical for establishing the different operating points for the subsystems within the carb but really won't tell you about the mixture with any detail.

There are three ways I know of to assess mixture: exhaust gas analyzer (very expensive and not always portable), HO2S driven A/F gauges (not practical for wet exhausts), and plug removal and inspection (not as easy as it use to be). You don't have to pull them hot (time consuming but usually burn free). If you forgo the checking and something runs lean, the result will be much more "painful" than the delayed plug check.
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diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave

Post Number: 525
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I do a couple inboard side plugs, while adrift, and using mechanics gloves. With all this done, and buying the strip kit, it resulted in jets and rods right out of the box.
In a piston aircraft, it's very easy with an exhaust gas temp gauge and the mixture control. Lean until max EGT, and richen 50 deg.
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1917
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The #1 or #2 plugs are prime candidates for checking. One is easier to get to as the manifold only partial obscures it. They are usually "uphill" from the carb so leaness first.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7172
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 06:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I'll let y'all in on a little secret: In checking plugs to see how a motor is running, all you need to look at is two adjacent plugs. That's all! Only if the motor has a problem--like a bad plug or plug wire--do you need to pull 'em all.

Naturally, Mr. Marina Mechanic--at up to $100 and hour--has to pull them ALL out. Gotta be thorough!

Jeff
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Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct

Post Number: 44
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

while we're on this topic, what size is that intake manifold port? I thought a 1/4" drive would fit but it's too small and 3/8" is too big?

Is there a vac port I can thread in to connect the gauge?
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7177
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 05:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

For this test, you can use the vacuum on the carb that goes to the PCV valve.

Jeff
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Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct

Post Number: 45
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

do you mean the the hose on each valve cover that goes up to the flame arrestor?

On my '88's, there's a an elbow but it's not actually a PVC valve (although that's where it would be).
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7179
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Wow! You need to install a functioning PCV system to keep acid-eating, bearing-killing moisture out of your motors.

That other hose is not going to a vacuum source, unfortunately, but you might find a fitting on the carb, on the choke pull off. It doesn't take a large hose to measure vacuum.

Jeff
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Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct

Post Number: 46
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Jeff - is there a PVC upgrade for my vintage Crusaders?

Both engine are stock with just a plastic elbow in each valve cover which attaches to a hose that goes up to the flame arrestor (both sides, ea engine).

All the Crusaders I looked at had this same setup....

In the meantime, I'll look at the choke vac line.

Bob
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diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave

Post Number: 526
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

"Wow! You need to install a functioning PCV system to keep acid-eating, bearing-killing moisture out of your motors."

Well, that's an interesting statement, since on my last major 454 rebuild, I took out functional 1976 mains out of my port engine! That rebuild was last year and a lot of hours on that engine. Anyway, these/those engines did not come with PCV, only the vents to the arrestor. Which, obviously, work just fine, thank you.
The PCV would not be a upgrade. It was put on road vehicles to reduce the oil stripe in the middle of the road.
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Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00

Post Number: 88
Registered: 01-2007


Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Yes, Jeff, do I need a PCV Valve also on my Crusader 454, 350hp 1987? All I have is like Bob a plastic elbow.

Henry G.
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1918
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Actually, I'd label it a downgrade. Ignoring all the NRE, You'd be adding "moving pieces" to replace a system with NO moving parts.

As long as both vent tubes stay connected, i see no reason why the scavengine effect they create isn't equivalent to the PCV's.

I too have accumulated serious hours and suffered NO ill effect from lack of a PCV valve.
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Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00

Post Number: 89
Registered: 01-2007


Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks Mark

Henry G
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1920
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Bob:

As Jeff noted, the choke pull-off is the easiest point to tap to get a vacuum gauge hooked up.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7185
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

On mine, it was the ONLY vacuum source available.
Weird, for cars have a zillion points you can use.

Jeff

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