| Author |
Message |
    
Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00
Post Number: 81
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 05:51 pm: | 
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Is anyone knows if these cross-over pipes are still available. Will hate to have to modify the complete exhaust system in my boat. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1903
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:31 pm: |
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Henry:
what cross-over pipe are you referring to? |
Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00
Post Number: 82
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 07:26 pm: |
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the exhaust pipe between the stb and port side of the engine from the risers to the muffler. Its 3" dia to 4" reaching second riser before going to muffler. |
Rich P
Member
Username: rich_p
Post Number: 61
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 08:36 pm: |
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Not sure of availabilty, but it would not be too hard to make your own using premade fiberglass pieces (ells and tees) and hose. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1905
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 10:19 pm: |
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Henry:
That sounds more like what a "Y" is used for, if you have one muffler for each engine. Think of it as an open 4 and it's mirror image. 3" inlet, 3" inlet, and a single 4" outlet, to the muffler.
Rich's suggestion is what I did when I redid my engines and exhaust systems. I also opened it up as the elbows I got had 4" outlets. Turned out to be fine as the muffler had a reducer in it (salisbury's 5"+ diameter). All I had to do was add the stubs at the transom.
The elbows are easy to make, just use three pieces instead of two (extra cuts but works better). I wrapped mine with two layers of epoxy soaked cloth. You can also make the "Y" pipes but that takes the appropriate sized hole saw and a half round file. Again, two wraps of cloth was plenty.
You can also them pre-made if you rather not fool with it. I found the 10' lengths were priced in the reasonable range. They will last forever if you meet two criteria: 1) the cooling water needs to flow thru continually (just like the hose) and 2) you need to mount them securely so they don't vibrate (and wear thru). They can be joined with hose and clamps, just like Rich stated. I used mostly tubing and used the hose for the interconnects. You will also need hose for the initial 18" coming off the elbows. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1906
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 10:23 pm: |
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Here's some examples:
http://www.centekindustries.com/fittings.html
any good mamrine supplier should be able to get these or another brand.
BTW, these are by the boat builder, not the engine maker. |
Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00
Post Number: 83
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 07:59 am: |
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Mark, if you have a chance can you send me a picture of your set up. A picture worth a thousand words....No hurry but if I can I will do it this winter. Lives in Maine (cold winter) but Boat is home an I have heat in it.
Thanks for the link. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1908
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 09:55 am: |
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Here's the diagram....pictures may not do much good as all of it is black and there isn't much contrast.
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Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00
Post Number: 84
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 06:55 pm: |
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Thanks Mark for the diagram, I understand how to do it now.
Henry G |
exh diagram
