| Author |
Message |
    
Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct
Post Number: 18
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 07:19 pm: | 
|
I removed both exhaust manifolds on one engine today, so far so good. I'm going to put this one all back together before I move to the other side (thanks Al for the pics!).
What's the trick to getting the exhaust hose off the elbow w/o doing damage or cutting it? I left one elbow on the boat still connected, the other side I cut so I'm on the hook for at least one hose.
I wasn't planning on replacing them because they look like they're in good shape. I'm not sure how old they are, should I just replace all four? They're 3" probably 3-3.5' long (x4). Any idea how much they run?
Also, I am replacing all of the other hoses, what's the best place for that?
Bob |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7056
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 07:46 pm: |
|
Couple of things:
Dig into the rubber at the end of the hose and find the wire (if it has wire reinforcement). Pull it out of the hose with pliers, to get it out of your way, then slice the hose along its length. You can then muscle it off. Got fiberglass elbows? Slip a thin, narrow putty knife below the hose and cut on it.
If you look around, you can find new hose that's slightly larger in diameter (like 3 1/8 instead of 3 even). This makes life oh so easy, and they don't leak.
Jeff |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1806
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 08:05 pm: |
|
It may be a bit tougher with the elbow free. With the clamp off, I use an old snap on "Cotter Pin Puller" and work it down between the hose and the cast iron. once it get in, you have to work it all the way around. For lube, PowerTune (quicksilver) is the best but PB Blaster or sommething similar should work fine. Once the hose is 'free' from the elbow, its just elbow grease to wiggle/spin it out. |
Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47
Post Number: 790
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 08:59 pm: |
|
Bob,
My hoses were new when I had to swap the gaskets based on that post you saw with the diagram...After only a few weeks, you would have thought they were there for years. I used PB Blaster and a thin screwdriver to get a little space under the seal
Jeff's idea about the 3 1/8 has worked for us now very well and the new hose I just installed last was about $16.00 a foot, On the other hand, I also like the softwall hose without the internal wire. Same price though I think
I was reading the manual on another topic and ran into the statement about the fuel pumps. Manual is TECM 596 page 7-7...of the two type of fuel pumps Ac or Carter, neither can be repaired and must be replaced |
Rick Sweeten
Senior Member
Username: linesix
Post Number: 1621
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 09:30 pm: |
|
Mark is right, once you break the bond with the copperpin extractor it usually comes right off. |
Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00
Post Number: 69
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 05:03 pm: |
|
can I replace those 12 pts bolts on exhaust risers (Crusader 7.4, 350hp) with Hex steel bolts? Is never seize OK?
Thanks, HENRY g |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1857
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 06:27 pm: |
|
antiseize is a prudent choice on the riser and elbow connecting hardware.
I'd be more inclined to use stainless but the regular steel should function. Hex heads are ok. Just realize the regular steel may corrode faster. If you can get plated steel, they should be fine. |
Henry G Pelletier
Member
Username: cruisers00
Post Number: 70
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
|
thanks Mark, it's realy appreciated.
Henry G |
