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Converting auto carbs to marine

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Ken Wheatley
New member
Username: jayhawk51

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Is it practical to convert auto carbs to marine use?
I have a new Edelbrock that I would like to replace a bad Rochester with.
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diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave

Post Number: 478
Registered: 08-2008
Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

That's not a trivial question to answer. The inlet fuel valve is larger in the marine 1409, there may be main jet and metering rod changes as well. That stuff just gets it the correct mixture. There are other items, like corrosion protection of the plates (teflon) and outside surfaces (irridite) that may be a factor in a salt water boat. PLUS, there is the fuel connection for the leak detector on the pump.

All in all, i'd ebay your new pump and buy a 1407 square bore.
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Don Keye
Member
Username: willow

Post Number: 84
Registered: 11-2008


Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

It would appear that Edelbrock has both marine and auto carbs but I don't know where you would stand if you did a "self mod" and then had an incident. I would imagine your insurance might become a "sticky wicket".

From Edelbrock:
For use in marine applications, these Edelbrock carbs comply with U.S. Coast Guard safety standards. Cast surfaces are iridited with Teflon-coated shafts and pump arm for maximum protection. Other features include modified bowl venting, specially designed throttle shafts, accelerator pump seal, 3/8" inverted flare fuel inlet fitting, tube in airhorn for fuel pump vent, 5-1/8" flame arrestor flange, universal throttle lever and revised secondaries for improved transient performance. Note: These carbs have no vacuum ports and are not for auto use. Use our Carb Stud Kits #8008 or #8024 if needed.

However, even if you made all these changes, it would still not be CG approved. In the unlikely event there is a fire, consider the liability issues. Buying a "marine" carb is very cheap insurance.
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1781
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Practical?

As noted above, there are a lot of mod details. After that, you need a test ($$$). If you are only doing one or two - Not Cost Effective; going into the business, maybe.

I'd be happy to provide your 'bad' rochester with a new home.
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7041
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Te main thing (and critical) difference is this: Marine carb leak INWARDLY, where auto carbs leak EXTERNALLY, onto the manifold. Naturally, you wouldn't want that to happen in a boat!

Jeff
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1783
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Not exactly.

The marine carbs are designed to retain the bulk of any leak internally. It is also required to have a demonstrated <slow> leak rate to its outside.

In other words, marine carbs can leak outside of their castings, but not much.
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Ken Wheatley
New member
Username: jayhawk51

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks for the responses. I think I'll pass. Anyone need a 4bl auto carb?
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Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47

Post Number: 773
Registered: 09-2007


Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Gee Ken,

All that in just a few short hours. Can't ask for better than that .
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 7044
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Same difference, Mark.

Jeff

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