| Author |
Message |
    
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 5
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 05:22 am: | 
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I am looking at purchasing an '85 Silverton 290 with twin V6 260 crusaders. One engine over heated on the test run. found no mud in the oil and started looking for replacement parts for the cooling system. hoping it is just a stuck thermostat. But cant seem to find exhaust manifolds for a V6 online. Any help would be appreciated |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7018
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 06:36 am: |
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Bill:
Unless you're in love with it, find yourself another boat. Lots of them out there, and great bargains are to be had.
Personally, I really like that efficient and nice looking boat, but THAT one caulked be a money pit.
Jeff |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1766
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:48 am: |
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the "260" designator isn't for a crusader v-6.
The OEM manifolds are no longer available. best bet would be to use the merc style center riser type and pick the elbow that matches the rest of the exhaust system. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 6
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 02:14 pm: |
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Jeff
Thank you for the reply your opinion is well respected by many of the posters here from what I have read.
Since you seem to know this boat are there any specific things I should watch out for (other than other boats) lol, My wife and kids fell in love with the boat. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 7
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 02:16 pm: |
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Makomark
Thank you I found what I was looking for immediately. New to this and was getting frustrated not finding major parts. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7021
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 05:20 pm: |
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Bill:
Spend the money to have the boat surveyed. They will test out both motors and THEY will be responsible if you have trouble later on.
Any time a motor runs hot you're taking a risk.
Jeff |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 8
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 07:34 pm: |
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Thanks Jeff I will do that |
Don Keye
Member
Username: willow
Post Number: 74
Registered: 11-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:18 pm: |
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Spend the money to have the boat surveyed. They will test out both motors and THEY will be responsible if you have trouble later on.
Jeff...
I think a surveyor can advise you about all the "yes" and "nos" of a vessel but I would doubt that you could hold them responsible for something going wrong later on.....
Lets face it, they give an honest opinion and best guess, based on what they see and "run" with but should the engine seize a few days or a week later, it would very hard to get the surveyor to pay for the rebuild........ yes??..no?? |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 9
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:33 pm: |
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Thank you Don
All help is appreciated I am very new to this. First boat on my own grew up on them but never owned one. |
Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47
Post Number: 765
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 09:48 pm: |
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I found it interesting that we were unable to obtain insurance until a "listed" surveyor sent his survey to the insurance company. Whether we agreed to fix the problems or not never came into question. While we could have operated the boat in its mediocre condition and possibly cost the insurance co a boatload ( could'nt resist) of money, we actually went way beyond every recommendation and made the boat even more valuable and seaworthy. So who has the greater liabilities? Does the ins. co. take the surveyor to task with any elements of a survey IF a claim is made or do they just fight the owner who is expecting the coverage? |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 10
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:35 pm: |
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Thank you Al
your feedback has been a great help as has reading this forum!! the wealth of info here is worth more than any motor manual can replace. Though I do have manuals. You guys are great
Jeff, Mako, Al |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:36 pm: |
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oh crap did I forget Don???? |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:40 pm: |
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I have read alot about winterizing but it all seems to be in water.(or outboard) My boat will be dry docked for winter. I know it seems like a stupid question but how does my boat get to the hauling dock from my slip once I winterize? |
Don Keye
Member
Username: willow
Post Number: 75
Registered: 11-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:46 pm: |
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Is OK Bill..... I'm really a "Dot".....you know what a "Dot" is, don't you???
That's when you leave the job, (retire), and start walking away....the further you get from the job and as you approach the horizon you start to look like a "Dot"........and yes I am a "Dot" and enjoying everyday out here in "Dotland".
PS .. if you go to the top of your post you will see in the right corner 3 icons.....click on the pencil and paper and you will have the option to edit your post. I think the option locks you out if you have left the post for an hour.....
Have a great week....
DK |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 13
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:56 pm: |
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I actually look for info from you "Dot" types. I believe your knowledge will only be passed down if we ask.
And I am not afraid to ask |
Don Keye
Member
Username: willow
Post Number: 76
Registered: 11-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 11:14 pm: |
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You could do all the plumbing, hot and cold water , heads, etc., while the boat is in the water..... If you must use the engines to get to the "haul-out dock" you will have to do the engines onshore. (((I really can't see doing the engines anywhere except onshore)))
Personally I have never done the engines while in the water...Immediately after I have driven to the haul out and as soon as the boat is out of the water, I do my own power-wash on the hull, (that saves me $200.00 right there), and then immediately drain all engine oil and change filters, (including gas/water filters) and put in fresh oil. (Includes the genset)
Next I drain the blocks and the manifolds.
I take a pail of antifreeze mixture, hook it up at the Sea Cock contraption I have, and run the engine(s) and suck all that antifreeze in.
The whole procedure(s) would normally take me about two hours but like all boaters..I get distracted very easily and start looking for more stuff to do when I am in the engine room so it normally takes me almost twice the time. |
Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47
Post Number: 766
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 11:27 pm: |
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Don...Same thing here, verbatim! The distraction is usually gabbing away with others at the marina swapping stories of all kinds |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7026
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:19 am: |
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A bonded surveyr is responsible--finacially--for the condition of the boat surveyed.
Jeff |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1771
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 12:12 pm: |
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Liability depends upon a bunch of things, the least of which is what type of survey is request and by whom. Best approach to make sure it has a chance of sticking is to ensure YOU hire a competent surveyor (SAMS is a good sign) and he receives written instructions on the whole deal - why they are being hired. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 14
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:04 pm: |
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Thanks Don
I had read so much into it I looked right past the obvious. Everything I read said to bring engines to operating temp prior to draining fluids. Never thought about the trip to the haul slip. The engine temps will be ready. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 15
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 05:57 pm: |
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I have another question. Should I bottom paint every year or is every other sufficient? |
Don Keye
Member
Username: willow
Post Number: 78
Registered: 11-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 06:35 pm: |
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Bottom Paint ???
That is going to depend on what the bottom is like the first time you pull her out. It will also depend on what kind of bottom paint the boat has on it.
In my case I use Triple X and all I really need to do is from the bottom edge of the hull up to the top of the water line. The bottom has a different type on it and so far has lasted over 8 years and I run in very clean, fresh water so I would imagine that helps as well.
If the bottom of your boat is a real mess(poor paint), you might consider removing all the old paint and puting on some of that real high tech paint..it is expensive but it will last quite awhile...again depending on where you are running.
IF you have to remove your old paint, ask around as there are environmental concerns when removing the old paint and also health concerns for the individual(s) removing the paint. I'm sure some of your boatyard "experts" will be able to point you in the right direction...good luck. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7030
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 06:41 pm: |
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It depends on which type you use. I--and others--have found out the hard way that the ablative paint is the only way to go. It sluffs off gradually during the season, where the hard, non-ablative stuff tends to fall off in ugly patches as it ages. The ablative type just wears slowly away. I touch it up every year where the color contrast shows me the paint is gone.
Pre-painting prep is also easier with this stuff since it reacts to water. Just water blast it a day before painting and it goes on--and stays on. The non-ablative stuff requires hours of sanding and solvent cleaning. Ugh!
Jeff |
diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave
Post Number: 480
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 10:40 am: |
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"I--and others--have found out the hard way that the ablative paint is the only way to go. It sluffs off gradually during the season, where the hard, non-ablative stuff tends to fall off in ugly patches as it ages. The ablative type just wears slowly away. I touch it up every year where the color contrast shows me the paint is gone. "
YES! It took me years to figure this out! However, i'm having better luck with trinidad on the running gear. All my metal gets trinidad, the plastic gets ablative. Ablative will wear prematurely on rotating metal, shafts, etc. |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7042
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 01:10 pm: |
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Me too; but only after hours of filthy dirty, back breaking work lying on the ground under a boat!
Jeff |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 16
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 03:17 pm: |
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I havent seen the hull yet it is still in water. Thanks guys.
So if I see ugly patches I can chip and sand the old stuff off and the go with the Ablative?
At the cost of Trinidad how often are you guys painting the metal? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7043
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 07:45 pm: |
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Chip, chip away.... Let's hope not. You still might have to scuff the paint up for the ablative stuff to stick.
Jeff |
diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave
Post Number: 481
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 08:19 pm: |
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Trinidad: every hauling, which was every year; now, I'm stretching to every 18 to 20 months. The Trinidad gets ground off entirely. I use a 5" disc with 60 grit and a angle grinder with wire wheel for the places the mikita won't reach. The pros use a 8" flex wheel with 24 grit and a good touch. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 17
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 10:51 pm: |
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thanks guys this is all very helpful |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1788
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 08:48 am: |
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Dave:
Why Trinidad and not the Vivid product?
Based on Pettit's ap guide, seems the trinidad isn't the preferred product. Also, with that high copper content, I'd be scared applying it to the drive line metals. |
diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave
Post Number: 483
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 03:50 pm: |
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re: vivid. I'm not adverse to trying it. Seems it was designed for the pretty colors. But, it may be thinner, which is better for the props. re: copper paint. There is no aluminum down there, only SS and bronze. So far, no pitting on the trim tabs or shaft. Actually, I do have some shaft pitting, but only under the packing. The hard epoxy paints have been the only stuff to last on any rotating metal. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1795
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 04:01 pm: |
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same base - epoxy - different biocide composition. I was taught not to use copper based paint directly on any of the metal running gear components...maybe the newer compounds have lessened the impact? thanks. |
diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave
Post Number: 484
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 04:52 pm: |
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Oh, I should also say I use a heavy coat of Primocon, over a metal etch wash as well. So, the metal doesnt really touch the AF paint. It's a four coat process total. Every year..
ps: and the transducer takes a third type of AF paint, as not to harm the poly casting. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1797
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:43 pm: |
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That will make a bit of difference. I haven't tried the newer hard epoxies on the metal yet, maybe this year will be the year for it.
Agree, the multicoat approach is the only way to get anything to stick and following those detailed directions really matters on that job. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 18
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2009 - 11:45 pm: |
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Hey all
Just wanted to keep you updated. We went ahead and purchased the boat after a second test run went without an overheat. Picked boat up yesterday and sailed her to our slip. Got her to open up to 3600 rpm Wot but it seemed that she could do more. I am thinking the throttle cables may not be set correctly?? any ideas?? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7117
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 07:21 am: |
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Nees a tune up, not getting complete spark advance, needs new wires and plugs, secondaries (if a 4 barrel) not opening up, dirty bottom, dinged up props, bad fuel...
Weee! Ain't boating fun!
Jeff |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1856
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2009 - 08:31 am: |
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and don't forget that second engine - twice the fun |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 01:15 am: |
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wow thanks Jeff I will look at those things first...Mako both engines same rpm?? |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1858
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 09:05 am: |
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No - I was getting at if you find an issue with one engine, it will likely occur soon on the other engine. Also, when you go shopping, you get to buy two of everything - spark plugs, oil filters, etc. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 20
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 12:30 am: |
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Understood Mark everything I do is times two. Yep cant wait to throw all that money away!! |
B-Man
Member
Username: belliswood
Post Number: 18
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:18 am: |
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Bill if you need parts call Jim at Silverton, he has almost everything you would need. 732-255-1100
Barry |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 21
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 01:57 am: |
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Hey Barry,
Just wondering if you upgraded the cooling system in your repower and if you did what exhaust manifold and elbow did you use? |
B-Man
Member
Username: belliswood
Post Number: 19
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 11:44 am: |
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Bill
no did not change anything on the cooling system other than water pump and raw water pump. Kept same manifolds and risers. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 22
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 01:11 am: |
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ok. I know the OEM stuff is no longer available. Just wondering what the configuration would be with Mercruiser parts. |
B-Man
Member
Username: belliswood
Post Number: 20
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 07:01 am: |
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Bill
check the silverton owners club site there is a tread there with someone replacing manifolds and risers and suggestions what to get and where. |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 23
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 12:38 am: |
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Thanks Barry |
Bill Victory
Member
Username: bobovic04
Post Number: 24
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 01:33 am: |
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Boat is on the hard now and the hull looks good. The bottom paint is a combo of both the flaking stuff with ablative painted over it. Should I just concentrate on the flaking areas to chip and sand and continue with the ablative over it?? or should I try to sand it all off? |
Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff
Post Number: 7244
Registered: 09-2003
| | Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 05:41 am: |
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I'd just power wash it really well and apply abalative from now on. Many people have removed all of the old, hard AF paint to "make her nice and smooth" only to find that speeds didn't improve for all that work and $$$.
Jeff |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 2009
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:13 am: |
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I'd figure out what you have on there and then see if it is compatible with what you plan to recoat it with - that will tell you what prep is required. When in doubt, call the paint MFG.
I had several areas that gave me fits - flake offs - for several years after getting the boat (new). Turned out the issue was bad prep at the factory - I suspect poor training. wound up stripping it down and applied the barrier coat and then the ablative paint system. |
diver dave
Advanced Member
Username: diver_dave
Post Number: 553
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:30 am: |
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No bottom paint should be "flaking off". Ablative paint will wear off, but you shouldn't be seeing flakes come off. On new hulls, the mold release will cause flaking. On older hulls, flaking over big areas might mean bad adhesion due to imcompatibility in chemistries. On metal, flaking will be the result of improper priming.
Many yards will have a guy with a water/sand blasting rig that is good for bottom stripping.
I ground off all my gelcoat (30 years old at the time, the boat that is..) and hit it with 6 coats of West and barrier additive and started over with ablative. Been good ever since, no sanding in the last 8 years of bottom prep; Except for all metal, all the paint comes off first. |
