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| Exhaust manifold replacement - FWC 45... |
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Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct
Post Number: 7
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 09:22 am: | 
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I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death, let me give it one more shot.
I have an '88 Trojan with about 700 hours. I think the exhaust manifolds are original on both engines. I'm planning on doing the risers/elbows on both sides, on the fence about the exhaust manifolds.
Both engines run about 180 degrees now although the port engine heats up a lot faster and gets a little hotter if I push it. Elbows/risers might be original on this side. I'm going to change Raw water pumps and thermostats as well.
What's the verdict on doing the ex manifolds pro-actively? Am I down to minutes or should I leave them alone? When they fail, is catastrophic or will I get some warning?
I'm also planning on changing the hoses at the same time, a lot of them are original. My other question is.....how do I "test" all of this work, the boat is coming out of the water this weekend.
I really don't want to wait until the spring launch if I can help it. Is this any sort of attachment I can get to run the RWC side in a loop so I can check for leaks as I move along?
thanks,
Bob |
Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct
Post Number: 8
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 09:26 am: |
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forgot to add:
1) what socket do I need for the riser/elbow bolts. Is that a 12 point external torx? Not sure what size I need. Can I replace those with a hex bolt instead?
2) Do I have any chance of getting these out w/o breaking? I'm going to start soaking them with PB plaster now. |
makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark
Post Number: 1735
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 10:30 am: |
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Bob:
Board Member Al has extensive experience with your area. i'd suggest you search for his posts in the Crusader archives.
The manifolds should be serviceable if they are in the coolant side. The risers and elbows are overdue if they are original. When the risers finally come off, you should be able to assess the state of the manifolds.
You can use a standard radiator tester to pressure check the coolant side of the system.
Positive testing of the raw water side (elbows and risers) is a bit tougher due to the elbow's construction.
My original '86's had hex nuts, can't remember exactly but think they were 3/8" threads so 5/8" wrench needed. If they are twelve points, the customary box end wrench usually works fine. BTW, external torx fasteners are 6 points, not 12. |
Bob Dunne
Member
Username: bobct
Post Number: 9
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 04:15 pm: |
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thanks, will do a search. Can't believe I didn't think of a 12 point socket or wrench. I assumed that there was a "specific" tool but I all already own those!
Bo |
Al
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47
Post Number: 739
Registered: 09-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, October 22, 2009 - 04:49 pm: |
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Bob- The reason my manifolds were replaced is two fold. MAIN reason was that the cylinder head valves were the big issue and corrosion in the manifolds was significant. Had they been at a point where a good cleaning rendered them usable...done ! Corrosion was so bad on the 9/16 bolt heads they were literally erroded to 13mm sockets and that just slipped and stripped. As you will probably read, the only solution was the "BFH". Once reduced to hand sized pieces by beating the "S" out of them , we basically started from scratch having the heads re-done and used new manifolds. It had taken many weekends of frustration before learning of that fabulous new tool... FYI: the "BFH" is not a Snap-On item...more like "Stanley or Craftsman"
One other thing, IF IT COMES TO THAT...I did not know at the time that their newer style manifolds could replace the log style... I would have changed to that center riser style. I could have used a different exhaust system that Rick had and quieted down the roar somewhat. |
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