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Morse controls

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peter panagos
Member
Username: luhrs_40

Post Number: 19
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

89 Luhrs 454s flybridge only controls...original morse controls port throtle when running over 3200 RPMs after a few seconds slides back to under 3000..Is there an adjustment for cable to stay in place?
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Ted Broderick
Member
Username: tbrodes

Post Number: 99
Registered: 02-2008


Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Peter, there is. My starboard engine did the exact same thing! I took the cover off (two screws) and there are a series of screws (BTW these controls are hard to screw up so go at it). The screw at the middle i tightened down a turn and that stopped my slip. However I then had to re-adjustment my tower controls (wont be a problem for you).
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peter panagos
Member
Username: luhrs_40

Post Number: 20
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanx Ted i took that small cover on top off and there are 2 screws there but i think those are for the shifter limits... no?
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Ted Broderick
Member
Username: tbrodes

Post Number: 100
Registered: 02-2008


Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

there are two for front and back shifter limits then there is one that tightens the control itself. I am away from the boat until next weekend, I havent adjusted mine since july 4th weekend....again I would just take a look and try tightening a few screws...
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1611
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2009 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Peter:

Here's a link to the manual for a typical Morse mechanical control:

http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/teleflexfiles/library/instructionmanuals/05500 0-215%20SR%20Rev%201.pdf

I disagree with Ted a bit - you do need to be careful when inside. A bad adjustment could render you in a really awkward (& expensive) situation....kind of like working on your auto's brake system.
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peter panagos
Member
Username: luhrs_40

Post Number: 21
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2009 - 03:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanx Mako when i got your message i was at the boat so i did tighten the side screws at the shifter arm It feels better and tight but i have to take the boat out for a ride to see if problem is solved Thanx again
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1614
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2009 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I think the one you want is referred to in the guide as a BRAKE screw (maybe tension screw) for the throttle functions. It works like a clamp over the pivot...once you get your bearings, it is pretty obvious.

ps - if you have dual stations, only adjust one control's brake screws - leave the others with no tension. If they are connected serially, you shouldn't need much friction/tension; if parallel, it usually requires a bit more.
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peter panagos
Member
Username: luhrs_40

Post Number: 22
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2009 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanx again i think i got it now, my controls were the twin S not SR and the break screw was at the side of arm \newurl{http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/teleflexfiles/library/instructionmanua ls/055000-049%20Rev1.pdf,http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/teleflexfiles/library /instructionmanuals/055000-049%20Rev1.pdf}
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1615
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2009 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Sorry about that. you didn't specify which one so you got what what in my "online library".

Glad you got the proper one and know which one to snug up.
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peter panagos
Member
Username: luhrs_40

Post Number: 23
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2009 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanx again Mako, since i got this thread going let me ask u about my 89 carburator 454s The port engine burns 2-3 gallons gas more than the starboad, at cruise speed.. Timing is good compression is fine... WOT both egines are around 4500 RPMs You think can it be carb adjustment? I do have a vaccum gauge can i use it to adjust the air mixture?
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 6901
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2009 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

..."I do have a vacuum gauge can i use it to adjust the air mixture?"

No on several levels, A vacuum gage says "no vacuum" at high throttle, and you can't adjust the carb's mixture with the idle screws.

Instead, first put an indicating timing light on the motors and see if the spark is advancing all the way. Rev the motors to about 3,000 rpms in neutral.

Next, look for a dirt flame arrestor--that was causing mine to misbehave. Finally, if nothing seems to help, it's prop truing time.

Good luck!

Jeff
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1616
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2009 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Peter:

Like Jeff said, the idle mixture screws won't make any difference once you open the throttles enough to expose the transfer slots.

sadly, a few GPH difference between engines, at the same RPM, especially counter-rotaters, is not uncommon on factory tuned, carbed setups. What you can do is to use the vacuum gauges and record VAC & GPH vs RPM, for both engines (ignition advance is also good to record). You should find the GPH varies inversly with VAC; vac goes down, GPH goes up. Getting identical VAC readings on both engines across the RPM range is very tough due to tolerances and wear.

Once you have the baseline measurements, it isn't too hard to figure where to start tweaking to get things where you want them. It does take lots of time and most people don't want to invest it.

Unless your boat is super heavy or geared wrong, you should have a reasonable amount of VAC in the intake manifold at cruise. Everything you can do to increase that cruise VAC reading will improve your fuel economy.
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peter panagos
Member
Username: luhrs_40

Post Number: 24
Registered: 06-2007
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2009 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Not really a biggie...i do have the flowscans and around 3200 RPMs port engine burns 11 gallons Starboard burns around 13- 14 GPH But engines run well so best thing is not to touch it Thanx again
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makomark
Senior Member
Username: makomark

Post Number: 1620
Registered: 09-2008
Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2009 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

That's around the cut-in point for the factory supplied power piston springs and usually where the secondary throttle plates are opening but the air valves are still closed. probably running ~ 7" of VAC at that point. If the engines are close but not even there, seeing up to 3 GPH difference is possible.

if these conditions are met, the tweaks to equalize and lower the fuel consumption are pretty easy and relatively cheap. They'll pay for themselves within the first fillup. That's at least $9/hr.....

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