Rattle from bell housing/tranny area

Author Message   Robert van der Veer New member Username: robertv Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 10:12 am:    88 Silverton 34X Crusader 454/350hp Velvet V drives We were out and the wife said shut it down, I hear some noise. It sounded like something in the valve train had come apart on the SB motor - an erratic metal on metal clanking/rattle. I shut down all other motors (gen and port motor) to listen to the sick puppy. Clankity,clank,clank,clankity, and then a thud, which we felt in the hull, clankity, clank. We shut it down ASAP. I thought the worst and came back in on the port motor. I inspected the whole block and oil pan, no holes or new oil. I did pull all of the spark plugs, they looked perfect. I removed the belt to check spin the water pump - it appeared fine. The oil level was fine, the ATF was a tiny bit high, about 1/4 inch high on the dip stick where it should be at resting height (not after the 1500rpm run and immediate level check). The resting level appears to be about 1/4 inch above the level mark. Upon further investigation/short running, it appears to be coming from the bell housing/rear of the motor. These motors are in backwards. The motor starts and runs very smooth, no rough idle or anything, just the clanking. I have not pulled the starter motor, but this sure doesn't sound like the starter motor to me. Before I start to pull things apart: 1 What is between the flywheel and the tranny? 2 Does this motor have a torque converter? 3 Can I remove the tranny without removing the motor? The crusader repair manual does mention that I can, but I know that it does not cover Silvertons. 4 Any other ideas to diagnose? TIA Robert   Larry Jeffries New member Username: ljeffries Post Number: 3 Registered: 09-2007 Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 04:44 pm:    Robert, There is no TQ converter. Sounds like the dampner plate came apart.There is a plate that acts liek a clutch engage between the motor and tranny. Not sure what the formal explanation is but most techs will know if you mention this. Not sure what kind of room you have to work with, but more then likely you will want to pull the motor.   emac Visitor Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2008 - 05:51 pm:    HEY, this exact thing happened to me two years ago, 83 crusader w/velvet drive, was ready to just give the whole boat away. Sounded like a hammer in a sauce pan. then, dropped the engine hatch down hard, and the noise stopped. just as quick as it started. Engine guy i knew wasnt sure, but thought it might have been a hard piece of carbon that dropped from the valve cover. He took a while and listened to each valve with a stethascope, couldnt find any problems. then, and this is when it gets crazy, his recommendation was to ... very slowly,... pour water into the carb, to steam out the valves. Double checked with my auto mechanic, who was like, "wow, thats old school, but it can be done" so, good luck.   Chuck Lawrence New member Username: odyssey36dc Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2008 Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 07:23 pm:    Robert, you may have the same problem that I am dealing with now on my 1986 270HP Crusader. My damper plate has a spring that broke and it made a loud tapping sound like metal against metal. You can pull the bellhousing access cover plate at the bottom and see what falls out. I had a spring drop out with other small pieces of metal. I plan to pull the velvet drive and replace the damper plate. The damper plate is less that $100 so the job is mostly labor. Good luck. Chuck Lawrence   Fastjeff Senior Member Username: fastjeff Post Number: 4412 Registered: 09-2003 Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 11:25 pm:    If it's the damper plate, the tranny is far easier to pull for replacing it than the engine. Jeff   Robert van der Veer New member Username: robertv Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 05:28 am:    Thank you everyone for the posts. I was able to get a peek at the flywheel by removing the heat exchanger and the rubber timing cover on the top of the bell housing. There are fresh nicks on the drive plate and the drive plate bolt heads. I started to remove and loosen all of the bolts and connections. I plan to support the motor and remove the tranny and bell housing tonight. I am hopeful that it is just the drive plate and plan to do the port motor next. Cheers everyone!   Fastjeff Senior Member Username: fastjeff Post Number: 4414 Registered: 09-2003 Posted on Tuesday, May 13, 2008 - 06:34 am:    Good luck! Jeff   Robert van der Veer Member Username: robertv Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 06:56 pm:    So last night, I pulled the heat exchanger, supported the motor, pulled the v drive, bell housing and removed the drive plate that was missing four of the eight springs. The inside of the bell housing had a bunch of fresh nicks. I ordered two new drive plates and the bolts today. I should get the parts tomorrow. A side note to all that have 34X Silvertons: you have to remove the two studs that connect the v drive to the bell housing or you will not be able to move the v drive out of the way because you hit the fuel tank before it clears the studs. Happy to know that it is a cheap fix - part wise that is. I'd hate to have to pay someone to do this - I bet it would be a big $ job. I'll report back as soon as the SB motor is back up and running - then I'll put on the new manifolds and elbows and then do the drive plate on the P motor. Till soon!   Robert van der Veer Member Username: robertv Post Number: 5 Registered: 10-2007 Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 04:58 pm:    Victory! I spent last night putting her back together. Could have used an extra pair of hands getting the v drive back in. I ended up using a ratcheting tie down strap to hoist it in place. I worked until midnight, you know how it goes, you are full of energy as long as you stay active and then you stop, thus running out of juice. So I cleaned up and thought it might be better to wait until the am to run the beast - didn't think the liveaboards would like a midnight wake up call. I am happy to say that as of 6:30 this morning - all is well. I didn't take her out (raining cats and dogs in the NE), but did do a few idle to F and R at the dock, let the motor get up to temp and repeated. Next comes the manifolds and elbows on the same motor and then I'll replace the drive plate on the P motor. THX to everyone!!!   Fastjeff Senior Member Username: fastjeff Post Number: 4438 Registered: 09-2003 Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 07:39 am:    Good man! Jeff PS: It's smart that you waited 'till next morning before starting the motor. Tired minds make mistakes--knowhatimean?   stephen turney New member Username: snake063 Post Number: 1 Registered: 08-2008 Posted on Friday, August 22, 2008 - 10:02 pm:    replacing drive plate on crusader 454 350 series when bolting plate to flywheel, plate springs contact flywheel bolts before bolting down. someone has been here before so I don't know what if any parts are wrong I'm installing new ring gear starter gear and bellhousing.

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