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How to determine if cutlass bearing i...

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » Crusader Marine » How to determine if cutlass bearing is bad. « Previous Next »

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Tim Griffin
Member
Username: alaska_av8r

Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

1986 29ft Cruisers twin crusader 270's borg warner v-drives: I am almost done cleaning up the engine room and wiring, I drained and refilled the v-drives according to the manual. The boat is up on blocks and prior to engaging the transmissions I sprayed the cutlass bearings in soapy water. However the bearing intermittently would emit a high pitch squeal so I disengaged the transmission. That is the first time I have heard this.

How do I tell if the cutlass needs replacing and is there a better way to turn the prop while out of water?
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Stu W
Member
Username: stumedic

Post Number: 33
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Tim, you can't run an inboard on the ground. The flex of the hull will bind up your shafts. If you want to you can disconnect the shafts, after marking the flanges. Then you can check for cutless bearing play. Only reconnect the shafts after the boat is back in the water.
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Tim Griffin
Member
Username: alaska_av8r

Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 12:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

thanks stu, this is the first time I have owned an inboard. With that being said, should I worry too much about the intermittent squeal which I only heard once.....or wait until I dip it in the water and if it persists then..."be worried"
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Stu W
Member
Username: stumedic

Post Number: 34
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Saturday, April 12, 2008 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Tim, if you cooked the bearing you would probably have caught the smell of burning rubber. Unfortunately, there is no real good way to check a cutlass bearing unless you disconnect the drive couplings to take the load off the shaft. Usually, and anyone who knows better feel free to correct me, even a worn cutless bearing doesn't give much trouble as the thrust of the prop pretty much takes up the play. The play is more obvious when backing down. Of course a really worn cutless will wipe out your shaft. Stu
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Tim Griffin
Member
Username: alaska_av8r

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 01:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I didn't notice any burnt rubber smell and shut it down right away. Hopefully in a week or so I will stick the boat in the water for a leak check and see how she does.

thanks again
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Fastjeff
Senior Member
Username: fastjeff

Post Number: 4293
Registered: 09-2003


Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

One of mine started squeaking at low speed after I caught a line from a damn crab trap and it wrapped around the shaft in front. The only solution was to replace it.

Jeff
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Stu W
Member
Username: stumedic

Post Number: 35
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Jeff, he was running his on the hard-bad idea! Stu
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Tim Griffin
Member
Username: alaska_av8r

Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

another somewhat related question....it appears I have a dripless shaft, not sure what you call it but the output shaft going to the prop has a big rubber hose with clamps on it where the shaft exits the engine room....someone said since I will be putting my boat in and out of the water and not storing it on the water I would need to "burp" the stuffing box or whatever that thing is called.....??????? If so how do I do that?
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Stu W
Member
Username: stumedic

Post Number: 36
Registered: 03-2007


Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

All stuffing boxes have a rubber hose attached to the shaft log. Dripless use a seal instead of a stuffing box. Some are water cooled and have a pressure line attached to them from the raw water pump. This is a link to a dripless shaft. Stu
http://www.shaftseal.com/the-pss-shaft-seal-explained.html
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Tim Griffin
Member
Username: alaska_av8r

Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 02:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

That looks like what I have. Since I will be trailering my boat when it is not in use are there any special things I need to do..."burping" etc. I still don't know what he meant by burping...lol....
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Stu W
Member
Username: stumedic

Post Number: 37
Registered: 03-2007


Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

You shouldn't have to do anything. Most dripless couplings either have a pressure water line to cool them or a vent hose connected to them to allow water to enter the coupling to keep things cool. Some do have bleeders and the air must be bled from them everytime you launch the boat. Stu
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Al Lombardo
Advanced Member
Username: knuckle47

Post Number: 159
Registered: 09-2007


Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Well, there's your "burp" if there is a bleeder valve
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Tim Griffin
Member
Username: alaska_av8r

Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2008
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

okay that makes sense, I know there is not a water pressure hose attached, so I will look for the bleeder valve.

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