| Author |
Message |
    
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 101
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:19 am: | 
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G'day all,
Would really appreciate it if some learned person could advise me of the Torque Specifications of the 4 x 1/2" Diameter Bolts that attach the Water Pump and Gear Housing to the Upper Gear Case in the 1972 OMC Tall Stern Drive unit.
I have searched the Manual I have and can't find the numbers anywhere. Everything else, but those for the big long bolts.
Thanks,
Bruce. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 4384
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:32 am: |
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This page will give you all info needed about general torque specs.
Just do not use it for con-rod bolts!
http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque3.htm |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 373
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:45 am: |
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G-day mate. You know i searched and searched to give you the torque value for those bolts and can't find it anywhere.
What i do is get them seated and turn them another 1/4 turn. |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 102
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:46 am: |
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Thanks Mate,
But, they are Stainless Steel Bolts going into the Aluminium Case.
Hate to strip the threads at this point in time.
Bruce. |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 103
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:50 am: |
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G'day Chiefalen,
If you can't find them, then nobody can.
I can't see why they would be conspicuously missing, when all the other Torque Specs are there.
Bruce. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 4385
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:56 am: |
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If you follow the tables, 'lube' the threads with OMC sealing Compound or similar, you get:
313/328 Inch Pounds
23,3 Ft Pounds
3,8 Kpm/Kgm
If threads not damaged and thread depth more than 2 x diameter, no problems. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 4386
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 07:02 am: |
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'I can't see why they would be conspicuously missing, when all the other Torque Specs are there. '
They only specify torque specs when outside 'standards'.
You will in most books find a general torque table for different dimensions to be used when torque is not specified. |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 104
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 07:03 am: |
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23.3 Foot Pounds seems too soft, seeing as there is so much pressure created by the Bevel Gears, but if you say so, then that must also be true.
Will have to see what happens when I tighten them using the Torque Wrench, and see how close it is to Cheifalen's recommendation of "Seating, then 1/4 Turn".
But, that will be for tomorrow morning, as I am off to bed now.
Bruce. |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 105
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 07:28 am: |
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I am used to Automotive Manuals where they have Torque Specifications for every nut and bolt within the Engine, Transmission, Differential, Suspension, and everything else that needs tightening.
Bruce. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 4387
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 07:44 am: |
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The 'risk' when torquing in alu with that kind of bolt dia, is not that you rip off the bolts or threads, but deform the alu parts. You may probably be able to torque 6-10 Kpm, but your housing will not be happy! |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 106
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:40 pm: |
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I wouldn't be happy either if the Housing went a "Stripping" .
But, I tightened to 24 Ft.Lbs, and the bolts only turned an extra 1/8 of a turn after seating.
Now I can start completing the assembly. But joining to the engine will have to wait till the new Exhaust Valves arrive.
Thanks again,
Bruce. |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 375
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:08 am: |
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ok 1/8 of a turn sounds good too.
You did smear the blue or red permetex on the outside of the water pump housing before installing the housing, and gear and shafts all in one whole unit.
You did smear a little permetex on the bolt heads.
Use a drop of motor oil on all the rubber seals.
Any rubber 0-ring i usually drop into a cap of motor oil, shake well and install.
Good luck !
You did use good grease on the shaft splines.
Good luck ! |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 376
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 06:31 am: |
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"Castrol Pyroplex Blue is also sold under the BP brand(energrease LCX 6002)"
Above is copied from another post off another site posted in 2006.
spline grease, you need it for the shafts see they sit in water.
Same post this guy says to use " dupont krytox its 4.99 a tube at the pool shop "
Once again good luck ! |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 107
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 08:11 pm: |
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Well, it is back together, the upper part that is, and thanks for all the assistance.
I user Molykote BR 2 Plus for the Spline and Bearing Grease, Wynn's High Performance Lubricant Supplement for the Seal Surfaces including O Rings, Loctite for the Pinion Nut and Seal backings, Permatex No. 3, Non-hardening Sealant for the Main Bolt threads and head sealing, and Water Pump outer sealing surfaces and faces, and Rubber Grease for the Water Pump Vanes and outer surface where the vanes spin. Plus I hand-surfaced the internal Waterpump surface to remove any imperfections.
As this will be a Salt-water boat from now on, with a fully closed Engine Cooling system , it will need, and get, all the fresh water flushing that I can give it.
When I fill the Upper Gear and the Intermediate Housings, I will be using Pennzoil LSD Oil, and the proper C oil for the bottom gearset.
All I am waiting on is those Engine Exhaust Valves so I can complete the engine assembly, then the Installation.
Bruce.
PS. I am going to modify the Intermediate Housing to accept the later model Ball Gear with the nut attachment and machine up an adaptor to bring out the Coupler from the engine so it will engage the spline of the shorter shaft. |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 383
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:51 am: |
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Good work, when your done want to come work on my stringer circa 1985. |
Bruce Reynolds
Advanced Member
Username: the_tassie_devil
Post Number: 108
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 06:21 pm: |
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Just send me the plane tickets and I am on my way.
Bruce. |
