72 omc intermidiate housing/bell hous...

Author Message   Tony Caputo Member Username: searay1973 Post Number: 6 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 11:10 pm:    hi guys, i had a post a few months ago on an omc identification. thanks to chiefalan and dave lynnwood i found and correctly id,ed it. it is an 1972 165 horse omc with electric shift and short profile lower unit. model no. ju fm 10s. im currenty restoring the boat (1972 searay) and found out the block is cracked due to failure to winterizing it properly. ok long story short i need to know how to remove the bell housing / intermidate unit from the block (engine is removed) all 6 bell housing bolts are removed but will not separate, are there bolts on the flywheel? please help   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 4307 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 11:28 pm:    Most likely the intermediate shaft is stuck corroded in the damper at the fly-wheel. How to get it off? A big question with multiple suggestions ranging from Nitro Glycerin to drilling hole in the intermediate and, unscrew the damper from the flywheel. Then use a puller to get it off the shaft, and weld the holes in the intermediate.   chiefalen Advanced Member Username: chiefalen Post Number: 303 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 05:37 am:    you say the engine is already removed from the boat already ? or the drive was removed and you removed the entire motor and intermediate in one piece?   chiefalen Advanced Member Username: chiefalen Post Number: 304 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 05:45 am:    send me a email mail and i'll send you my phone number. i talked many people thru a bunch of different things. Click on my name in the left box my email is in my profile.   Bruce Reynolds Member Username: the_tassie_devil Post Number: 86 Registered: 02-2009 Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 08:09 am:    Ah ha, I can help you with that. I had the same problem with my 155hp in the '72 Seasport 16. What I did was pull the engine, after separating the Intermediate Housing from the Leg, and pulled it vertically, upside down, that is back end first, out of the boat. It took a bit of juggling to get it out, but the pictures show how to do it. Then I cut a slot in the bottom of the bellhousing, and with a 3/4" SAE Ring Spanner, reached into the Flywheel Bolts, and with a hammer, and a piece of wood to hold the head of the Ring Spanner on the bolts to loosten the bolts, undid each one, within the confines, and once all were undone, everything came apart. Then I used a puller to press off the hub from the shaft. Bruce.   Morten Ringvold Senior Member Username: haffiman37 Post Number: 4310 Registered: 04-2006 Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 08:23 am:    That looks like my 'cut and weld' suggestion. I guess with my other suggestion no pics would be available!   Bruce Reynolds Member Username: the_tassie_devil Post Number: 87 Registered: 02-2009 Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 08:30 am:    With my way, there is no need to have to weld it up where the cut is made, in my case that is, as there is no loss of strength where the metal is removed from. Bruce. PS. I love pictures as a picture tells a thousand words, and looks good to.   Tony Caputo Member Username: searay1973 Post Number: 7 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 08:18 pm:    thanks for the pics bruce, a question i have is in order to separate i have to remove the bolts from the coupler/flywheel??? lets say the coupler was not corroded, is this the normal way it has to be removed   Bruce Reynolds Member Username: the_tassie_devil Post Number: 88 Registered: 02-2009 Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 02:53 am:    If the Coupler and Intermediate Spline weren't corroded, then it should simply slip out, as it is simply like a car with a Manual Gearbox, and the Front Shaft goes into the Clutch Plate Splines. There is an "O" Ring in the end of the Intermediate Spline, which is designed to stop water getting into the splines and causing corrosion and binding. The only reason to remove the Coupler this way is when it is impossible to remove the Intermediate Shaft from the Coupler. Even though mine was so tight, I couldn't remove it in the correct way, as described in the Manual, and every other method I tried, the Splines weren't actually rusted together. The Sealing Ring on the Shaft, and possibly some very hard grease that had dried in there, and some basic corrosion, really made it impossible to simply slide off the Bellhousing. Man, I levered the housing, levered the Intermediate Housing, used a Slide Hammer on the Ball Gear, and eventually that came off the shaft, seeing as it was a "Press-on" one. If it had been a later model with the Ball Gear that is attached to the shaft with a Tapered Spline, and Nut, it would have separated, eventually, as I have a very large Slide Hammer. The small one removed the Ball Gear, so I was stuck between a rock and a hard place, and had to resort to the different method. Once you remove the Crankshaft Bolts, then if the Coupler still won't come off, then it is rusted in place, and you will NEED the heavy Hammer to free it from the "Register" in the end of the Crankshaft. Don't forget that you can carefully lever the Flywheel off the Crankshaft as you are turning the Crank. This will allow you to remove the engine from the Bellhousing, and than you can deal with the Coupler from the front, through the Central Hole. You MUST use a good quality Ring Spanner on the Bolts, as if you round off the heads, and the spanner won't grip, you may as well use the "Red Axe" and cut the intermediate shaft, and get a replacement. Bruce. PS. Some Couplers have the "O" Ring inside the rear of the piece, and mine had the "O" Ring, well, a rubber ring seal, on the actual shaft, as in the picture.   Tony Caputo Member Username: searay1973 Post Number: 8 Registered: 07-2009 Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 07:09 pm:    bruce, i did get the intermediate separated from the bell housing. i used two prybars and a floor jack. took some force, but came apart with no broken pieces. thanks   Bruce Reynolds Member Username: the_tassie_devil Post Number: 89 Registered: 02-2009 Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:21 pm:    G'day Tony, I can understand the two Pry Bars, but the Floor Jack? Please explain further, as I am having a hard time trying to figure out how a Floor Jack could be used in this area. Any Photos? Bruce.   Lex Anthony Newcomb New member Username: l_anthony Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2010 Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2010 - 11:55 am:    I am retoreing a 72 Land N Sea houseboat. I wonder if someone can help me? Thanks. Can you tell me the difference between a 72 and a 73 and newer OMC Upper gear housing? What can I bring along from my 72s if upgrading housings to 73-up, the gears, water pump, anything I can't? In other words, will he guts of my 72 120hp housings work with 73 and up upper gear housings? Thanks, Lex   chiefalen Advanced Member Username: chiefalen Post Number: 601 Registered: 03-2008 Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2010 - 04:17 pm:    lex you should start your own thread then more people will see it. i will reply then.

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