| Author |
Message |
    
Gary Hart
New member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 01:20 am: | 
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I need help adjusting the shifter on a 3.8, 1985 stringer drive. Anyone know of a good source for info on this? |
Hy Stat
Senior Member
Username: hystat
Post Number: 1496
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 08:36 am: |
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adjusting the shifter
might be able to help if you describe a symptom or what issues you are having with what you are trying to adjust.
The shifter itself, if an OMC side mount, doesn't have any adjustments.
The factory OMC manual is the best resource. Avoid Clymer , Seloc ok in a pinch. |
Gary Hart
New member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:15 am: |
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It doesn't act like it goes into forward fully before the throttle starts to pick up. Acts like it needs to be further into gear before taking off. Lots of "clicking" sounds. |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 264
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:44 am: |
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http://www.crowleymarine.com/product_support/omc/mechanical.cfm
Give this a read, see it's not the shifter out of wack but the shift converter located in the back
" MAYBE ".
Mine once setup never went out of adjustment, was anything done recently to the motor, cable? |
Gary Hart
New member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 02:13 pm: |
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Yes, I think it is the converter as you say. I will try these things tonight. No, nothing has been done back there. I recently purchased the boat, it had been sitting for many years. I think after some use something just got out of "whack". Thanks for your help too! !! |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 10:15 pm: |
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Hey Chiefalen,
Nothing there seems to be what I need. It just seems I need to get the outdrive in gear fully before the throttle kicks in. Any ideas?
Thanks Gary |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 267
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:31 pm: |
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See this is a fully mechanical unit, i got the same one, just different gears between yours and mine. you sure it's adjusted correctly the shift converter?
SO YOU READ THE NOMINAL NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT !
The adjustment is in the shift converter. Ether the lower or the uppper cable can be adjusted.
If it can"t be adjusted then a new lower cable just might be the ticket. |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 23, 2009 - 10:59 am: |
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The upper cable is adjustable. I will try that one to see if I can get it in gear quicker. Hope that helps. Thanks for your input, I will keep you posted. |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 6
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 03:58 pm: |
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New issue.... The tilt motor seemed to be having some issues, I had to hit it when it wouldn't work. It will raise slowly, but then just goes down hard when you push the down button.So I ordered and installed a new motor. Same problem. I have also replaced 3 of the solenoids up top with no change as well. Any ideas??? |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 274
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2009 - 09:08 pm: |
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So you have a stringer out drive that won't tilt up, or it tilts up very slowly, or you need to help it up physically. Maybe it doesn't move at all.
Here is a step bye step guide to fixing it. A manual would be very helpful.
1- A fully charged battery is imperative.
2- Disconnect the battery and clean the battery posts. Are the cables good?
3- With the battery disconnected, clean all the connections on the port side, solenoids. Don't forget the grounds.
4- Clean connections to tilt motor. Two wires.
5- Connect the battery.
6- On the out drive port side, there is a clutch housing. Four screws hold on
cover. Pull that cover. May be full of water. They all leak.
Two things you can do at this time.
A- Clean out the housing with clutch installed.
B- Remove the clutch and rebuild the housing. New seals.
If you chose A, Spray the clutch with brake cleaner. Make sure it's as clean as you can get it. You might have to spray it a few times. Blow it dry. Spray the the clutch with penetrating oil. Pack the housing with grease, and install cover. Don't over tighten the screws, can bind the clutch.
If you chose B, remove all the components of the gear housing. Soak everything in Acetone overnight. Rebuild housing, new seals. Blow dry the parts, soak them all in motor oil for a hour or two. Install parts. Pack the housing with grease. I know it calls for 30 weight motor oil. Trust me pack it with grease. Install cover.
7- Gently pry off the rubber bumpers. Don't mix them up, pump grease in the zerks. Install bumpers.
At this point the drive should move up and down easy. If it doesn't, you need to pull the tilt motor. Test motor and replace or rebuild. Make sure the hammer blow coupler is good or replace. Don't forget the gasket, on the tilt motor. .
Good luck!
The above i posted at another site and pasted it here. |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 7
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2009 - 10:27 pm: |
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Hey Chief, First of all thanks for all of the help! Couple of questions: 1) What kind of grease? 2) What is the hammer blow coupler? I have installed a new tilt motor now, seems a litte better. Thanks again,,, Gary |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 275
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 06:41 am: |
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it is the device between the end of the motor and the worm gear that drives the clutch.
i use the red stuff i buy at wal-mart.
You didn't open the clutch housing?
You have a manual? |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 8
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 11:16 am: |
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Well I must admit, before finding this site I bought the Clymer manual. About the only thing I think it will be good for is starting the campfire!! No, I have not opened the clutch housing, but now with your advice I will. I will clean the clutch, install the red stuff from Wally World and re-seal it. Oh, and I intend to order the real OMC repair manual as well. Thanks again, your information is very much appreciated. |
jason hitchman
New member
Username: tirdburd1
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2009 - 02:05 pm: |
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i had a simular problem and found my idle needed to be at 650 rpm or lower |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 280
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2009 - 03:26 pm: |
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650 actually is at the high end for it to be at idle in the water in gear with a warm motor.
Idle is called for to be 550-650.
According to the manual and my real world experience that is.
See i have a 1985 stringer, with a transplanted 3.0 merc motor in mine, had a 2.5 omc motor before i pulled a head bolt hole up and the motor went bye bye. |
jason hitchman
New member
Username: tirdburd1
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2009 - 05:21 pm: |
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is it possable that during the transplant from 2.5 to 3.0 you used the same tach. (i'm guessing 2.5=4 cyl and 3.0=6 cyl and if so the tach must be switched or replaced, this causing a false and higher tach reading |
chiefalen
Advanced Member
Username: chiefalen
Post Number: 281
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 06:10 pm: |
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no see the tach has a switch on the back 4-6-8 cylinders, want to toggle the switch back and forth if the tach acts up most times it will get the tach working again. You of course need to set it back to the correct amount of cylinders in the boat.
2.5 is a 4 cylinder as is the 3.0. |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 9
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 12:28 am: |
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Chiefalen:
OK, so I cleaned up the clutch and packed it with the red stuff from Wal Mart. I can now make the drive go down smoothly. It still seems to have a hard time lifting the drive though. But still sometimes the solenoids just click and the drive will not move. If I tap the tilt motor it will start to move again. (this is the same situation I had before I replaced the tilt motor). Any ideas Chief ???
Thanks Gary |
chris mcdonough
Member
Username: cap10mac
Post Number: 23
Registered: 09-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 12:46 am: |
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Could be you have a bad tilt motor. The old owner of my boat had let it sit for a long time and the whole inside rusted and corroded. I found these guys on the net and they had great customer service. If you can't rebuild the motor you have give them a try.
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/Item.aspx?SKU=trm0007%20/107-108%20tr im%20motor&caSKU=trm0007%20/107-108%20trim%20motor&caTitle=POWER%20TILT%20TRIM%2 0MOTOR%20OMC%20JOHNSON%20EVINRUDE%20ETK4102%20107-108%20TRM0007 |
Gary Hart
Member
Username: harleh20
Post Number: 10
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 05, 2009 - 12:57 am: |
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I just put a new tilt motor on the boat. The same problem still exists. Could it be the key & coupler (hammer blow coupler)? They look just fine to me. |
