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2.3 OMC COBRA MOTOR dies when gunned

Discussion Forum at MarineEngine.com » OMC Sterndrive and Inboard » 2.3 OMC COBRA MOTOR dies when gunned « Previous Next »

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neil
New member
Username: forwell

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Monday, August 17, 2009 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

MY 2.3 OMC COBRA MOTOR IM NOT SURE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS, IT RUNS FINE AT IDLE AND PRETTY MUCH ANY OTHER TIME. THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAVE IS WHEN I TRY TO GUN IT IT COMPLETLY DIES OUT BUT AS LONG AS I EASE INTO IT ITS FINE. I looked in the carb and gas seems to pours in when I pump the throttle. Replaced points last yr and they look good. anyone have any ideas
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Andrew Kaufmann
New member
Username: kauandy

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I am expieriencing the same problem neil - have you figured anything out yet?
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neil
New member
Username: forwell

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I rechecked the timing and found that it was at 4 degrees...changed it to 8 degrees and seems to be running fine. Debating whether I will change it to 9 but it seems to be running fine now.
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Michael Shrader
Member
Username: wmlaks

Post Number: 82
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have ran mine at 8,9,and 10 degrees and can not tell any diference in performance. However thr boat guru's say that if you run lower octane fuel you need to take a couple of degrees of timing out of your dist. the spec for that engine is 10 degrees. If you are running 87 octane fuel I think that I would leave the timeing where it is at
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mike salomaa
New member
Username: old_finn

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2009 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

I have the same prob. Tried emptying the fuel tank to eliminate sludge surging aft to cut fuel flow. Good idea but didn't help. Timing was moving when reved and found harmonic disc slipping so I replaced it. Will let you know the results soon.
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mike salomaa
New member
Username: old_finn

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 07:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Talked to a mechanic(?) yesterday and he spoke of the vulcanized rim on the harmonic vibration reducer on the end of the camshaft has a tendency to come loose ergo change the timing. Does this make sense?
Another thought - the flapper valve in the exhaust could be dislodged and in the open position (a la a choke)at idle and close when throttle increased. Comments?
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Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37

Post Number: 4186
Registered: 04-2006


Posted on Thursday, September 03, 2009 - 07:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

If the vulc slips in the balance, the timing itself will not be changed, just the indicator relative to the crank. If you do not adjust with the faulty setting, nothing will happen.
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mike salomaa
New member
Username: old_finn

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Friday, September 11, 2009 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

How can I check to see if the exhaust flapper plate is still in position without removing the engine? I once saw a boat with a 350 v8 that had flapper plate drop into the exhaust outlet and closed when throttle was opened. Otherwise it idled perfectly.
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Bob Hill
Senior Member
Username: boatin_bob

Post Number: 1420
Registered: 07-2006


Posted on Friday, September 11, 2009 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

See the diagram below, just loosen off the flexible coupler (item 39) between the exhaust pipe and the riser, the flapper should be just down inside the top of the exhaust pipe (item 35).

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harry arthur
Member
Username: arthur3

Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Saturday, September 12, 2009 - 01:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

The stalling problem when you try and accelerate sounds like the accelerator pump inside the carb is bad. The pump stores this extra fuel and when you try and accelerate the pump has leaked down and no fuel is supplied and you are getting a flat spot or heisation.If you slowly accelerate to WOT and it runs fine the carb has received a steady flow of fuel and no heisation. Look where Bob is talking about on the exhaust flapper, had both of mine fall into the Y pipe and were blocking off the exhaust,idled fine, when i tried to go forward it just would not accelerate above 3000 rpm and only run 5-10 mph. I don't think this is your problem though.
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mike salomaa
Member
Username: old_finn

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP

Thanks to Bob Hill for the exploded view.

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