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| 5.0/200 with jacksrew selectrim? |
| Author |
Message |
    
James Wilson
Member
Username: 800stringerjim
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, April 26, 2008 - 01:04 pm: | 
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As I progress through this thing my daddy in law gifted me with , I find more questions with every answer. The selectrim has never worked in the boat since he bought it used about 6 yrs ago. The boat sat up 3 years and I'm trying to get it lakeworthy again. Changed the oil and filter, and she cranks up and runs fine in the driveway with the hose attachment, then she pitchs the belt. I notice the alterantor pully is lose, and then I see the alt cooling fan is missing. We found it in the bilge. Has been broken in half some time ago. So I'm going to have to change the alt. out and I figure might as well do the belt at the same time. But this 5.0 has the jackscrew set up I read is usualy mated to the 140 hp inline engines. The front motor mount is a little different, but otherwise its the same as described in Seloc for the 4cyl. Seloc doen't even include a description of the GM V-8 selectrim. So I have 3 questions:
1. Can you trade the selectrim assembly in on a freshly rebuilt one and not have to take a 2nd mortgage?
2. Do you really have to rent an engine hoist to take the load off the front mount so it can be taken off, TO CHANGE THE BELT?
3. Does anyone else have this set up on their GM 5.0 200 hp? The engine was built in 1980; the hull maybe as late as 1982. |
Morgan Foister
New member
Username: morganfl
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 04:11 pm: |
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James,
I have a 185, with the same set-up I believe. It's the 5.0 Chevy. To answer your questions;
1 - I replaced the motor on mine, and it worked like a charm afterward. Do yourself a favor and get the factory repair manual. Ebay is about the best place to go. The Seloc manuals are nice back-ups, but the factory manuals are gold.
2. Yes, you need to lift the engine to pull the front mount to change the belt.
I went to Harbor Freight Tools and bought a 7' cherry picker for mine for a tad less than $200. Worked great for me for multiple lifts and set downs while I've done various repairs. Sorry I don't have better news.
good luck,
Morgan |
James Wilson
Member
Username: 800stringerjim
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 11:19 pm: |
|
Thanks,Morgan, where did you find the new motor and about how much are we talking about? Did you go through the whole jackscrew assembly and redo everything? Was it a pretty big job, if so?
I will try to get by without changing the belt, and do it all at once. It also looks like I will be shopping for manuals again. |
Bob Hill
Advanced Member
Username: boatin_bob
Post Number: 543
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 09:12 am: |
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Do yourself a favor and cable tie a 2nd belt in place when you replace the first one. That way it will be very easy to change it next time. |
Morgan Foister
Member
Username: morganfl
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 05:48 pm: |
|
James,
I purchased a new motor from Go2Marine for $208. If you've not found it yet, you can use http://www.crowleymarine.com/index.cfm to look up part #'s for your specific drive, but it's probably identical to mine. Just click on "Parts Catalog", then "OMC, Johnson, Evinrude" tab, then "OMC sterndrive" from pulldown, then your year and engine output (says size, but means hp). My model # was on a metal label on the port valve cover. The hp was on the starboard valve cover.
The only difficult part about either job is getting the crane/cherry picker to lift the front of the engine a bit. Once you've got that, hook it up, take out the six lagging bolts at the base of the front motor mounts. Then loosen the four long bolts that screw into the front of the motor holding on the trim assembly. You will probably need to disconnect the alternator completely to get the trim assembly loose. Finally, use tape and a perm marker to mark where each wire goes for the solenoid assemblies. It sounds like a lot, but I found it to be relatively easy work. Will take a couple hours.
Be careful with new motor and bolts. They bolt all the way through the motor, and can be difficult to get threaded without the motor trying to fall apart on you.
The manual does a walkthrough on troubleshooting the assembly, but I just took a shot in the dark and pulled the motor. My boot looked good, and really, the assembly is rather simple, motor or solenoid is most likely. Upon inspecting the old motor, found it was full of mud. I suspect from some other damage that the boat was flooded for a period of time in the recent past.
So knowing that, I was sure to seal all the motor joinings with marine caulk on install.
Hope this helps.
-Morgan |
James Wilson
Member
Username: 800stringerjim
Post Number: 6
Registered: 04-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 11:03 am: |
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Thank you very much for the good advice. I'm going to try to get through the summer and this winter I will get the selectrim back on line. For now, all the oils are changed, new alternator, fresh gas and new adventures. |
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