Volvo Penta AQ131 newbie questions

Author Message   Mike New member Username: tamike Post Number: 1 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Monday, August 27, 2007 - 11:41 pm:    I'm thinking of buying a 1986 Bayliner capri with a Penta aq131-275 engine. I'm going 8 hours away to check it out and would like to have some info on what to check out. It's my first boat purchase and don't want to buy something that isn't worth the time. The owner said that he hasn't started for a year and that now the starter only clicks. Any advice would be appreciated.   Doug Henderson Member Username: doug_henderson Post Number: 35 Registered: 09-2006 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 05:55 am:    Battery prolly dead, jumper cables should get it goin. Put the leg in a suitable water container so that the pickup is submerged and get it running. Check for overheating problems. Shut down engine and pull the dipstick out and check for water in the oil(looks like milkshake). Take a compression gauge with you as well and test the compression across all 4 cylinders. Other than that its about price/appearance/condition   Mike New member Username: tamike Post Number: 2 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 08:55 am:    The guy told me he installed a new battery. Can you start it with a screwdriver on the selenoid or would it be more the starter? He said it started doing this last year when he has it out last. It would click and after awhile it would start. Now he says he has a hard time starting it.   Doug Henderson Member Username: doug_henderson Post Number: 36 Registered: 09-2006 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 11:07 am:    you could try a screwdriver   william roy rogers Member Username: wrrogers Post Number: 62 Registered: 07-2006 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 12:33 pm:    I am not an expert but it sounds as though the saftey kill mechanism may be damaged or another eletrical problem and the screw driver is being utilized in order to by pass said wiring. Also there a chance of an arc from the screw driver, gas fumes and the arc could make for a bad day. I have used a screwdriver however only when sranded and had no other choice at the time. One would think that if you are going to make the effort and travel 8 hours for an inspection that the seller could make the effort and have the problem corrected. Also Running the boat on a hose is Ok i guess but in my opinion there is no replacement for actually puting the boat in the water and taking a test drive.   Mike New member Username: tamike Post Number: 3 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 09:41 pm:    Just wondering if a Volvo automotive starter would work on this engine as it would be easier to find one at an autowrecker than having to order one at the last minute.   Eric Bell Advanced Member Username: ejbtech1 Post Number: 249 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 10:06 pm:    Yes, it does. I have one on mine.....Have had no problems in fresh water, at all. I have a volvo 270 starter as well as a volvo 270 block in my boat. Both with no problems, except the carb, but that's marine. Try it. But keep it in fresh water, as salt does the most damage to the engine components.   Stan Grygorcewicz Advanced Member Username: gryg1 Post Number: 127 Registered: 12-2005 Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 07:30 am:    yes i put one on mine and havent look back starts everytime ,got it for $20.00   Mike Member Username: tamike Post Number: 4 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 10:06 am:    This is for a AQ131-275 engine. What automotive starter would I get to replace it?   Doug Henderson Member Username: doug_henderson Post Number: 38 Registered: 09-2006 Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 10:32 am:    Get a starter for a 85-93 240 Volvo. esentially the same engine save for the "marine" parts   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 2238 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Friday, August 31, 2007 - 09:54 pm:    1) Never install an automotive starter on a marine engine. Not only it contravenes Coast Guard Regs, it can also cause an unwanted KABOOM if there are gasoline vapours int he blge!! 2) Make sure there is a good ground between the engine block and the battery.   Mike Member Username: tamike Post Number: 5 Registered: 08-2007 Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 11:43 am:    I was just going to use it to make sure the engine works before I bought it. Will get the original re-built when I bring it back home. Is there an engine with more horsepower that you can attach to the 275 outdrive or is the aq131 sufficient for a 19.5 ft. bayliner? Thanks for all the info.   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 2255 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 01:05 pm:    The AQ131 will give you 120 HP, and it may be or not "sufficient" for a 19.5' depending on what the word "sufficient" means to you. If you are happy with your boat's speed and the way it handles in rough weather or pulling skiers with your current engine, then your current power should be "sufficient". But if you want more HP from a 4 cylinder, you can try an AQ145A for 138 HP, or AQ145B for 139 HP; an AQ151(A or C) for 146 HP; or an AQ171 for 167 HP. Any of those engines will attach to your 275 outdrive.   John Wolf Visitor Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 04:42 pm:    previous owner put silicone around outdrive where it meets boat, what is correct way to fix this problem? I am assuming this leaked as I have just purchased this boat and have never had it in the water due to it needs work. It is a AQ 131A/275 Please help! Thank you   Roel Kliatchko Visitor Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 - 12:58 am:    I need help on my 1989 INVADER engine type is a AQ131 120 HP. Everything starts up fine idles ok I bought it from this guy who hasn't start it up for about a year. My dad and I did the tuned up replace the spark plug wire/sparkplugs as well, oil changes. I also added a fuel filter from the tank going to the CARB. I went to nearest lake to test it out; once again it ran ok at about 3200rpm close to 30mph. I notice something that wasn't right sometimes when I throttle it fires back (BURST) on the carb 1 to 2 times. After that it seems like it's lacking of power or I guess there's HESITATION. But after putting it neutral and throttle again it seems to be ok, I mean power is there don't get wrong I don't know a whole lot about boat engine performances. The symptoms seem to come and go for some reason. But for AQ131 running a 3200rpm at about 30 to 35 mph is that normal or more to be expected??? HELP!!!   Eric Bell Advanced Member Username: ejbtech1 Post Number: 400 Registered: 06-2007 Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 08:40 pm:    Everyone here, wit exception of the original poster should repost a new question.......We can't have two or three threads bleeding together......THANKS!!!!   hoggish1 Visitor Posted on Monday, April 28, 2008 - 11:03 pm:    i have just bought an 89 vlovo penta AQ131D with a 275 o/d...starts fine, but gets really hot at just an idle...it seems to be over heating....anyone with ideas as where i should start   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3057 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 12:25 am:    Yes, the first thing to check is the raw water hose connector in the outdrive; if it is corroded/perforated, the raw water pump will suck air. Replacement of the hose connector is cheap (around 30 bucks). If the hose connector is OK, then check that the water passages in the exhaust manifold are not plugged/choked with scale; that the raw water strainer is clean; and that the raw water pump impeller is in good condition. Also, check that the alternator belt tension is correct. The above are the most common causes for overheating.   hoggish1 Visitor Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 12:59 am:    hey thanks el pescador....i checked the hose fittings and replaced the impeller...the motor still isnt sucking water....does the motor have to get to a certain temp before it will circulate water through the impeller? could the thermostat be bad??the only other thing i have to check is the exhaust manifold....what creates the sucktion of the water..will i need to replace any gaskets if i take off the manifold   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3075 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 07:08 am:    The raw water pump should suck water once you start the engine. The thermostat is seldom a problem, as the engine is fresh water cooled. More often than not, you may be able to reuse the exhaust manifold gaskets, but there is no guarantee this will be the case or that they won't leak afterwards. The best practice is to replace the gaskets with new once you remove the manifold.   ken lawrence New member Username: kenwillaw Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 12:44 pm:    I have a Volvo Penta AQ131/275 in a 1987 Bayliner Trophy 21. I have fuel and spark but it will not fire. Any ideas?   Leo Latham Member Username: fixitman Post Number: 42 Registered: 02-2008 Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 01:50 pm:    Ken , I had that problem .. replaced the spark plugs and it started .   ken lawrence New member Username: kenwillaw Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 03:48 pm:    I already changed plugs thanx anyway   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3080 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2008 - 07:44 pm:    Ignition timing is off the mark, or the timing belt has slipped.   ken lawrence New member Username: kenwillaw Post Number: 3 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 09:33 am:    thanx El I will start from there . no problem with the valves interfering with the pistons on this engine?   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3089 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 08:21 pm:    Yours is a non-interference engine, so even if the timing belt broke the piston will not hit the valves.   Pierrick Stumm New member Username: spoc78 Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 08:42 am:    Hi there, is there anyone who can share with me a diagram showing timing belt adjustment for a AQ131A? just to ensure crankshaft/ignition and headcame are synchronised? many thanks   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3097 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 09:05 pm:    http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Volvo/TimingMarks.htm   Pierrick Stumm New member Username: spoc78 Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2008 Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 02:41 am:    El Pescador, many thanks for this !!!!   hoggish1 Visitor Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 01:02 pm:    hey el pescdor........i have checked every thing you told me to check for signs of over heating...everything seems to be fine ...the boat is still not sucking water from the outdrive to the raw water pump...i have been trying to figure out why there is fresh water cooling and raw water cooling...is the raw water used for cooling the oil or the fresh water   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3103 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 01:26 pm:    Hoggish1, the raw water pump (the one in brass with two copper pipes below the alternator) is moved by the engine; it sucks raw water via the grids in the lower part of the outdrive, then circulates that raw water through the heat exchanger, the oil cooler (if fitted) and the exhaust manifold, then the raw water mixes with the exhaust gas and goes back to the outside of the boat via the exhaust pipe and the outdrive. The circulating pump (which is the one under the water tank in the front of your engine) circulates fresh water through the heat exchanger, then through the engine. In a nutshell, the raw water cools the fresh water, and the fresh water cools the engine. Similar to the radiator in your car, but instead of using air as cooling agent you use raw water. If you don't get any suction, you may want to make sure that the raw water pump is actually turning. If the impeller does not turn, the pump will obviously not suck any water. You may want to make sure that the Woodruff key part 6 is installed between the raw water pump shaft 9 and the impeller 5 http://www.volvopentastore.com/SEA_WATER_PUMP_855578/dm/cart_id.657400424--categ ory_id.332893--list_time.1210180863--session_id.873611601--store_id.366--view_id .324014 and also that the crosspiece 3 is not missing; for it is, the pump will not turn. http://www.volvopentastore.com/COOLING_SYSTEM_INDUCTION_AND_EXHAUST_MANIFOLD_AQ1 31A/dm/cart_id.657400424--category_id.332893--list_time.1210180987--session_id.8 73611601--store_id.366--view_id.324105   hoggish1 Visitor Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 01:54 pm:    when i replaced the impeller i also replaced the cross piece ...when i replaced everything i left the cover to the impeller off and turned the motor over and it was definatley turning..just not sucking water...i even took all the copper tubes off and made sure they werre not clogged...do you think it could be something stuck up in the out drive...i even poored water from the inside of the boat to the out drive and the water comes out of the out drive....its driving me crazy because i know it is something simple but just cant find it...do i have to remove the whole outdrive to get to the little s shaped hose that attaches the out drive to the transom...i just did a visual inspection of the hose and fittings but couldnt get up close   El Pescador Senior Member Username: el_pescador Post Number: 3106 Registered: 02-2006 Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2008 - 02:10 pm:    You can try something else: cover the grid in the outdrive with duct tape, then remove the suction pipe from the raw water pump and pressurize the pipe with a garden hose. Then you will see if there are any leaks between the pump suction line and the outdrive through which the pump could be sucking air.   Sebastian Member Username: sebski Post Number: 18 Registered: 02-2008 Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 03:29 am:    hoggish1, btw what do you mean by "overheating" ? what temp do you read from gauge? When I wasnt sure that water is delivering to heat exchanger I have opened (take off cup) from raw water filter (black plastic "bottle" next to heat exchanger) and run engine for 3-4 seconds, you will see fountain if water is delivered to heat exchanger.   hoggish1 Visitor Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2008 - 11:05 pm:    my motor gets to 210 or hotter within a couple minutes...i have taken off the cap and the water starts to fill up the filter but then it stops and quits sucking   jesse james Visitor Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 12:50 am:    this for the guy having problems with aq 131a not drawing water to seawater pump,you need to make sure if running on muffs to plug hole in bottom of lower unit !   james h babylon ny Visitor Posted on Tuesday, May 27, 2008 - 10:23 am:    i have a vp v8 with a 275 outdrive is also getting hot fast. it is fine at a idle and rapidly gets bhot under power the raw water pump seems to be missing part of 2 bladfes could this be the problem or just one of many? the manifolds and riser and circulater pump all new it is salt water cooled engine 5.7 lt also how do i get the impeller out of the pump housing?   Chris Member Username: smokediver Post Number: 50 Registered: 07-2007 Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 09:21 pm:    WOW! How did we get from a guy asking about buying a used Boat to a V8 with a bad impeller? Crazy.... Anyhow Mike, I bought an identical boat last year (open bow) as my first boat. I think I would drive 16 hours for a new boat (don't forget the 8 hour drive home), but not a 22 year old boat. I got mine off craigslist locally for $2500 and have put in $2K getting it back in shape. I haven't even touched the carpet or upholstery yet! The boat ran when I bought it, but I have since replaced the exhaust manifold (corroded), alternator (died), starter (died), battery (died), installed electronic ignition (free), changed the plugs (fouled), replaced the cylinder head (broke a bolt changing the exhaust manifold), rotor (worn), distributor cap (old, broke when tightening), timing belt (worn), and on and on and on. But hey, I did all the work myself and it's been one heck of a learning experience. Some of the things I replaced were a result of my own carelessness. Doh!! Lots of cussing. And beware, for whatever reason the word "marinized" translates into lots of dollars. Just remember this forum when you get into a jam. If you have the tools and the time, you can save a lot of money by consulting some of the folks here. But as for that old Bayliner, forget it. Odds are you can find one in similar or better condition and a lot closer to where you live. Good Luck!   Steve1611 Visitor Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 10:06 pm: