| Author |
Message |
    
Nacho
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2007 - 10:47 pm: | 
|
Hi guys,
I hope you can help me with this. After reporting you the noise while steering with my 270stern drive, I used your helpful advice and dismantled the stern drive.
First surprise, even if belows seem fine, there was plenty of water coming out of them, specially from the drive bellow.
HOW DID THE WATER COME IN? WHAT CAN I DO TO AVOID IT ON TOP OF CHANGING BELLOWS AND RINGS?
The second surprise was to find the bearing located on the shaft completely toasted. The steering yoke and U-joints are also a bit rusty, but that's not a surprise.
I attach pictures.
Yoke rotates in every direction smoothly. U-joints seem to be in good shape and there's micro minimal play in unwanted movement.
Bearing needs to be replace.
I removed the first sealing ring, the lock and snap ring.
HOW DO I REMOVE THE BEARING AND THE OTHER SEALING RING? DO I NEED A SPECIAL TOOL? DO I NEED TO ALSO REMOVE INBOARD ENGINE AND DISMANTLE THE HOUSING TO DO IT OR CAN I JUST DO IT HAVING REMOVED THE LEG?
And my last question would be about the U joints and Steering Yoke, if they seem to be ok, DO I NEED TO REPLACE THEM?
Thanks in advance for the help. Here in Europe, I'm having trouble finding people with knowledge on this engine and Stern drive. I am learning every day trying to do it by myself.
Cheers.
Nacho |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2026
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2007 - 11:14 pm: |
|
Unfortunately You only seem to have one option:
Out with the engine and dismantle the bell housing. The shaft and bearings must be pressed out from the 'engine side'. Looking at the pick the bushing for the steering bolt does not seem to be in too good condition, I think it is time to replace the helmet as well.
You might be in for quite a job. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 1932
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2007 - 11:24 pm: |
|
You have to pull the engine and the bellhousing together. Once both are out, you can remove the primary shaft with the damaged bearing.
The u-joints also need to be replaced, as they have been exposed to water.
Water could have found its way in through a perforated bellows, loose clamps, or pitted/corroded/perforated bellhousing (the outer part where the drive bellows connects to, which looks quite wasted away in the picture)
One bit of advice: invest some money in either the Seloc or Clymer repair manuals so that you know exactly what to do through the dismantling and reassembly processes. |
Boat Doc
Advanced Member
Username: boatdoc55
Post Number: 131
Registered: 04-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2007 - 09:41 am: |
|
Has he told us it's a V6-V8? Maybe I missed that part. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 1937
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2007 - 09:51 am: |
|
Boatdoc, it is a 125B/270. Check this:
http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/79955.shtml |
Boat Doc
Advanced Member
Username: boatdoc55
Post Number: 136
Registered: 04-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2007 - 10:33 am: |
|
Why does he need to pull the engine? The driveshaft and bearing come out from the rear? The only reason I see to pull the engine is if the shaft is STUCK in the housing or driveplate and won't come out. |
El Pescador
Senior Member
Username: el_pescador
Post Number: 1940
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2007 - 11:05 am: |
|
A few reasons include: 1) He will have a hell of a time removing the bearing outer race if the bearing is in pieces (which seems to be the case); 2) He will have to clean thoroughly the whole housing and replace the inner lip seal, and I don't see how he can do that from the outside; 3) He may accidentally pull and drop the crankshaft pilot bearing when attemting to remove the primary shaft; 4) He needs to verify the condition of the splines in the vibration damper, as they probably have been exposed to water and fretting; 5) Because it is the only way in which you can verify that all components are in good condition and that they have been correctly assembled; and 6) Because it is the easiest way I know to do the job and the one that the repair manuals describe. |
Boat Doc
Advanced Member
Username: boatdoc55
Post Number: 139
Registered: 04-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2007 - 12:53 pm: |
|
I guess I must step back and THINK a little more on what I suggest on repairs and what SHOULD be done on DIY'ers problems. I KNOW how I would attemp to cure problems like this and I know where to start and stop. I just have a hard time remembering that most DIYer's don't have the experience that we longtime/ fulltime mechs have. Yes, EL'S reasons are all valid but I would not pull the engine at my shop just yet till I gave it a try from the rear for part of an hour. |
Morten Ringvold
Senior Member
Username: haffiman37
Post Number: 2030
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2007 - 08:13 pm: |
|
I think I would rather leave my engine to El P... than the Boat Doc!
Removing that engine with the drive off is less than an hour if a hoist is available. Far less in time than what You loos in time trying to do a Mickey Mouse job with a rather uncertain outcome. |
